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01-05-2018, 09:11 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45
Okay, we're talking about a different key. My CRV came with two identical Black Chip Keys and one Grey Non Chip key.
The two black keys start and run the car but the Grey one will only start the car for a few seconds and shutt off. It will Manually lock/unlock the drivers door.
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Your valet key is not programmed correctly, a dealer can program it correctly. The need all the vehicle keys and the vehicle for an hour or so. The valet key was missing when I bought my '14 CR-V so I had to have it done.
I also had a non-chipped key made for the '05 Ody since, like the CR-V, the key had to be left in the ignition. I used the non-chipped key in the ignition and held a chipped key next to it. That would start the engine and let it run. That doesn't work in the CR-V though so I just use the valet key now.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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01-05-2018, 09:15 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sue46
Are you aware that in most states a braking system is required by law?
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And to add to that: You must be legal in each and every state you travel in, there is no reciprocity on braking laws like there is for drivers licenses.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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01-07-2018, 05:07 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Naples, Fl
Posts: 338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D
And to add to that: You must be legal in each and every state you travel in, there is no reciprocity on braking laws like there is for drivers licenses.
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For auxiliary brake system I started with brake buddy. It worked ok with my Ford Focus but when I changed over to CRV found out the sensitivity table was not accurate causing brake overheat on my toad vehicle. Added M&G tow brake system. Is love the setup. It uses the existing air brake system of my coach with air brakes to proportionately actuate the toad's brakes. For RVs without air brakes they do offer an air compressor setup, but this does add to the cost.
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01-07-2018, 06:35 PM
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#32
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RV LIFE Support Team
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We put on our CRV a Ready Brake Elite. We didn't want to be bothered with moving a braking unit in and out of the car. We unhitch and off we go.
__________________
Sue
2015 Winnebago Vista 36Y + Honda CRV
RV LIFE Support Team
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01-07-2018, 06:44 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excursion04
For auxiliary brake system I started with brake buddy. It worked ok with my Ford Focus but when I changed over to CRV found out the sensitivity table was not accurate causing brake overheat on my toad vehicle. Added M&G tow brake system. Is love the setup. It uses the existing air brake system of my coach with air brakes to proportionately actuate the toad's brakes. For RVs without air brakes they do offer an air compressor setup, but this does add to the cost.
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I have used the air actuated, fully proportional RoadMaster BrakeMaster 9160 (includes breakaway) for over 15 yrs even though my rig has air disk all around and easily passes the WA, OR and CA performance specks.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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01-15-2018, 06:42 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windsurferlady
Thank you for all that good information. I'm not going to change the size of the battery but I went to my Honda Dealer yesterday and talked with the service manager as to what battery came in my Honda and he informed me it had a 450CCA and Honda has now upgraded to 500 CCA so I'm buying a 615 CC battery to get the recommended cranking amps. I took the one back that I had bought because it was lower CCAmps. I don't have any breaking system so I don't think there should be any drain on the battery when towing. I really like that idea of the by pass switch. I may get that if I experience any battery drain. I've dimmed the lights when the car is left in the ACC position and I'll make sure the radio is off. Thank you so much for that post. I'm going to keep it to refer to if I need to put a switch in and I'll print out the instructions and keep under my visor or put on a card and refer to each time I stop. Now I feel confident in leaving on my own. I'm so happy this forum is here to help.
Windsurferlady
Kingston, Ontario
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Your 2011 Honda is a great unit to pull, that is what we are pulling now. Sorry to hear you are not going to use a tow break of some kind. It is much safer and is very a very noticible difference when not using a break. After pulling for awhile you might want to reconsider. I have towed with and without a battery cut off and have only had one issue. Just follow the instruction manual and you should not have problems.
Gene
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