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Old 03-13-2012, 06:46 PM   #29
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I've checked and a braking system for the mini isn't required since it only weighs 2, 500 lbs... They are usually used to help keep the brakes of the MH from overheating and failings if it has to stop both vehicles..... I have a 28,000+ lb MH stopping a 2,500 lb mini... I don't believe there will be a single issue with not having the braking system...
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:33 PM   #30
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Mini Cooper wiring - can anyone explain how they wired their Mini for towing.... I have the standard tranny version.... I want turn signals, brake and running lights....
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:41 PM   #31
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I used magnetic lights. Put a connector in the cargo area so I could disconnect the lights. On mine there is a small compartment in the passenger rear and that's where the connector is. Ran the wiring under the carpet on the passenger side and into the engine area near the glove box. Ran the wires forward to the grill and installed another connector there. Then I used a short line from the motor home to the Mini - plugged into the connector at the grill and plugged the lights in at the connector in the cargo area. I'm sure there are better options.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:11 AM   #32
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There is room in the back light area to install an additional light. It is wired through the car to the front. It works as a running light, a turn signal and a brake light.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:15 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ernest917 View Post
Mini Cooper wiring - can anyone explain how they wired their Mini for towing.... I have the standard tranny version.... I want turn signals, brake and running lights....
I use these (left the Mini wiring alone!):

Wireless Tow Lights
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:47 PM   #34
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I am getting a 2003 Mini Cooper S ready to tow 4-down and am trying to minimize the height mismatch between my MH hitch receiver and the toad baseplate tabs. The Blue Ox base plates come in at 10.5" high and my receiver is 19.5" so I'd need at least a 6" drop receiver. The Roadmaster baseplates look to be similar height but I don't have exact numbers.

So, I have questions:

1. If I stick with the Blue Ox system and have the 9" height difference, should I get an 8" drop receiver to get within 1" or would a 6" drop be enough? I'd like to avoid scraping too much.

2. Is there a different baseplate and towbar setup for a 2003 Mini that puts the tabs higher to minimize the make-up required?

3. Am I worried too much about the drop receiver issue? Just get what I need and choose my routes as best I can.

This forum is great. I have learned so much in the last few weeks. Thanks to all...ned.
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:25 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncoonen View Post
I am getting a 2003 Mini Cooper S ready to tow 4-down and am trying to minimize the height mismatch between my MH hitch receiver and the toad baseplate tabs. The Blue Ox base plates come in at 10.5" high and my receiver is 19.5" so I'd need at least a 6" drop receiver. The Roadmaster baseplates look to be similar height but I don't have exact numbers.

So, I have questions:

1. If I stick with the Blue Ox system and have the 9" height difference, should I get an 8" drop receiver to get within 1" or would a 6" drop be enough? I'd like to avoid scraping too much.

2. Is there a different baseplate and towbar setup for a 2003 Mini that puts the tabs higher to minimize the make-up required?

3. Am I worried too much about the drop receiver issue? Just get what I need and choose my routes as best I can.

This forum is great. I have learned so much in the last few weeks. Thanks to all...ned.

Just my experience - I had the same height problem between my Damon (Thor) Outlaw and my 2010MCS. I use a 6" drop which puts my bar within the 1-2" inch window they recommend. I've never had any problem after almost 8000 miles towing and not come close to bottoming out even in hard dips into and out of some strange places.

Can't speak to 2 or 3, but hope that helps.
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:14 PM   #36
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I had to make some mods with mine even with a 4"drop recivier. Raised the Blue OX base plate height up10.5" with 4" chan iron then made a removable pin at top.(This was to reduce flex)
The base plate was then modified to a Roadmaster cross over for support.
This is all removeable after towing however......alot of parts.
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Old 08-02-2012, 02:01 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstrails View Post
I had to make some mods with mine even with a 4"drop recivier. Raised the Blue OX base plate height up10.5" with 4" chan iron then made a removable pin at top.(This was to reduce flex)
The base plate was then modified to a Roadmaster cross over for support.
This is all removeable after towing however......alot of parts.
That is the sort of setup I was thinking about as an alternative to the standard, rather low base plates from Blue Ox and Roadmaster. It is nice to have the tow bar level and higher. You did a lot more fabrication that I was hoping to though. Thanks for the detailed pictures.

...ned.
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:12 AM   #38
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Trying to do my part to forestall the clutter caused by a separate thread for every thought, I decided to add my MINI Cooper toad experiences to this thread.

Toad: 2003 MINI Cooper S, 6-speed manual
Baseplate: Blue Ox, regular (not hidden)
Towbar: Ready Brute Elite (with integrated Ready Brake)
Breakaway: Readystop breakaway kit
Motorhome: 2013 Four Winds 28Z (E450 V-10) with a 6" receiver drop adaptor

For toad lights, I modified the MINI's tail lights by replacing the top foglight (which is unused in US spec cars) in each taillight unit with a dual filament 1157-type socket and bulb. These are wired to a flat four connector sticking out the front grill on the toad near the left side base plate fixture. This worked out very well providing great rear lighting without molesting the wiring or lights used when the car is not being towed. I use a 7-to-4 coiled cord to connect the car to the motorhome.

Overall, when the car is being toad, no power is used and the ignition key remains "OFF" but in the key-slot to keep the steering wheel free.

How does it all work? Awesome! I was pretty nervous the first time out but you could hardly tell anything was attached from the way the combined rig drove. To be completely honest, I don't know for sure that the MINI's brakes are being activated in normal driving but the great news is that ... the combined rig stops great. No drama, no OMG moments, it just works. (I did not connect the ReadyBrake dash indicator light but all that says is that the toad compressed the tow bar spring, not that the toad brakes are actually doing anything.)

The last time I drove the motorhome with the MINI attached I was heading home in suburban Chicago evening rush hour traffic having just picked the rig up from the dealer after a warranty repair (another story for another day). There was a blustery 30 mph crosswind in addition to heavy traffic. No problems other the usual sawing-the-wheel while fighting the crosswind. The MINI tracked steadily with no issues. I was concerned that the motorhome's tail would be wagging a bit due to all the wind-induced course corrections but it seemed to have no affect on how the car followed.

I don't have any pictures unfortunately but could take some and/or answer questions if anyone else is thinking of going this route. Overall I am happy with how the system works and especially that I don't have a "surge brake robot" inside the car with the accompanying power issues. The ReadyBrake setup can be a little challenging to install in a small car but once it's set up right, you're done with it.

Happy trails...ned.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:46 PM   #39
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Wow this is a great thread with lots of good info.

We just bought a new Thor Palazzo with towing our new 2013 JCW Coupe or our 2010 JCW Clubman in mind. We do not want anything to happen to our MINIS so we are going to tow it in an enclosed 20 foot trailer along with our racing go kart. Then we'll hit the road for a cross country road trip hitting all of the MINI events throughout the U.S. probably starting with AMVIV 10 (A MINI Vacation in Vegas).
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