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Old 03-23-2012, 01:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkeye
Doesn't matter what color your motor home is, you need something like a 340 HP. Cummins diesel to pull a Suburban We pull ours with a 350 hp. Cat and it does just fine. The fuel mileage does drop, depending on wind, terrain, and how hard you push it, Good Luck
That's the model, it has a cummins diesel and I was just wondering if anybody has a problem pulling it with my coach.
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:19 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mirbigfella View Post
That's the model, it has a cummins diesel and I was just wondering if anybody has a problem pulling it with my coach.
Please calculate towing capacity before towing your Suburban. RED GCWR = 33,000#, GVWR = 29,500. Suburbans weigh about 6000#. I am no expert, but it looks like the RED may not have the capacity, or the hitch capacity.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:15 PM   #17
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I tow our 2005 Z71 Suburban when we have all four of our kids with us. Our Cummins can definitely tow the 6,000 pounds, but I WAY prefer towing our Jeep Wrangler! You can definitely tell its back there.

One piece of advice - if you are going to tow a Suburban don't even consider doing it without a supplemental break system.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:45 AM   #18
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According to Tiffin, your hitch capacity is 5,000 lb, so you might have to beef up the hitch.
The hitch/reciever is one thing. The rear structure/frame is another, not to mention the brakes, trans, etc. If the structure and drivetrain were capable of towing much more than 5k lbs I suspect Tiffin would have equiped it with a heavier hitch and rated it accordingly.

I'd really suggest you call Tiffin and ask them what the limiting factor is and is it something that can be supplimented safely and economically, for your safety and mine (I don't want to be the guy passing you in the opposite direction when that monster breaks loose). You've also not mentioned how your loaded weight compares to your gross combined weight rating.

There was a 35ft RED parked across the street from me a couple weeks ago. For all intents and purposes it looked like our Open Road on a Ford chassis, except for the rear diesel engine. I'd want to know the chassis/frame was up to the job before I spent the bucks on a new Suburban - that I couldn't tow.

Good luck!
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:21 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by JMonroe View Post
The hitch/reciever is one thing. The rear structure/frame is another, not to mention the brakes, trans, etc. If the structure and drivetrain were capable of towing much more than 5k lbs I suspect Tiffin would have equiped it with a heavier hitch and rated it accordingly.

I'd really suggest you call Tiffin and ask them what the limiting factor is and is it something that can be supplimented safely and economically, for your safety and mine (I don't want to be the guy passing you in the opposite direction when that monster breaks loose). You've also not mentioned how your loaded weight compares to your gross combined weight rating.

There was a 35ft RED parked across the street from me a couple weeks ago. For all intents and purposes it looked like our Open Road on a Ford chassis, except for the rear diesel engine. I'd want to know the chassis/frame was up to the job before I spent the bucks on a new Suburban - that I couldn't tow.

Good luck!
Excellent post and I totally agree. It scares me to think about how many RVers are grossly overweight and never consider any of those factors when towing.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:15 PM   #20
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According to Tiffin, your hitch capacity is 5,000 lb, so you might have to beef up the hitch.
Okay, you have brought up a point I have been wondering about.
My Winnie is also rated at 5,000 lbs . . . . is that a hitch issue? Can it be beefed up to tow more? If I could flat tow my 2003 4wd Avalanche ( 5800 lbs with a full tank), it would make my life somewhat easier, except going over the Grapevine or the Rockies I would guess!

( OOPS!) I see I missed paged 2! Guess ky question was answered?
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:28 PM   #21
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Mirbigfella... as suggested above, you will need to make certain your rig's engine, chassis, and tow hardware can handle the approx. 6000 lb. weight of the burb. If that's all good, then make certain the burb you buy has 4WD with a transfer case which can be put into "N" neutral.

We recently bought a 2012 Chevy Avalanche LTZ 4WD, which is essentially a fully loaded 4WD burb with the Avalanche rear end. Our rig can handle the weight.

We like to do a fair bit of local exploring in our toad and after having a 2011 Wrangler Unlimited (which we loved) the Avalanche/Suburban/Tahoe is a huge step up in travel comfort and vehicle safety. We are totally thrilled with the Avalanche as a toad.

I store my bike and camp chairs in the cargo hold of the Avalanche which keeps it secure, safe, out of sight, out of mind, and out of the storage bays under the coach!

We use Blue Ox Aladdin tow bars and SMI AirForceOne air braking system while towing.



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Old 03-06-2013, 03:39 PM   #22
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I'm shopping for a MH, and if I can tow my current suburban that saves me the trouble of selling it to buy a disposable van to tow instead. The trouble is it's a real pain to find info on engine, chassis, and hitch ratings! Apparently it's not something everyone wants to know? So far, none of the MHs I've seen have had hitch ratings high enough (a few as low as 3500, a couple 5000 and 5500). What's the easiest/best way to get this info? At what point should I be asking, after I've narrowed the field or before? I'm afraid I may have wasted time looking at this backwards!
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:29 PM   #23
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These threads always scare me. "Can I beef up the hitch to increase my tow rating".

The hitch is but one part of the equation. The frame, brakes, transmission, cooling system, and so on, also need to be considered.

Many motor homes are built using a chassis, as example, that came out of the factory much shorter that when you bought it. The RV manufacturer will weld on a frame extension to support the bigger house they want to put on it (just check out the "mile long" overhang on some motor homes). This add-on structure can many times be the limiting factor.

Problem is, it's somewhere between difficult and impossible for you to find out exactly what the limiting factors are and just assuming that it is the hitch can end up causing serious damage to your rig and/or toad, not to mention the exposure to injury or worse.

Unless you are a qualified mechanical engineer, stick to the manufacturer's published limits. Buy either a bigger RV or a smaller toad, whatever it takes to stay within those limits.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:13 PM   #24
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I too am curious about towing a suburban. I am in the process of finding a coach and it seems like most out there would be underpowered. I am looking at 42-43' coaches with 450 Cummins. I would prefer 500+, but the price goes up fast and I don't need the trim level these offer.

How "well" does your coach pull your full sized truck? To me there is nothing worse than underpowered rig.
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