Towing Automatic Toad 4 Down While Idle

[mossalot]

Has anybody every pulled a toad 4 down behind their RV while leaving it idle and using a Ready Brake? I have read a Brake Buddy would cause the toad brakes to lock up because of the power brakes being on while the engine is running, but wouldn't something like a Ready Brake work ok?

-------------------

That's the short version. If you want to read on to see why I am to this point, here's the long explanation:

I learned I am going to pay more "stupid tax" yesterday. We went to have our 08 4 Door Wrangler we bought 3 weeks ago set up to be towed 4 down for our upcoming trip to the Florida Keys in 9 days.

As the mechanic was finishing it up, I began looking to see what sequence things needed to be done for the Jeep to disengage the drive shaft to be towed 4 down. That is when it hit me. Our Jeep has no way to disengage the drive shaft. It is a 2 WHEEL DRIVE AUTOMATIC JEEP. I feel like such an idiot.

So now, I am looking for an option to get this Jeep towed with us for our trip. We've already installed the baseplate, light wiring, and Brake Buddy for the Jeep. Once we get back, I am going to have a drive-shaft disconnect installed. The part alone is $1250. I'm not even sure what the labor is yet. This isn't an option for us before the trip because it will be at least 2 weeks before they start building it.

My wife absolutely loves this Jeep. We bought it primarily to pull behind the RV and take on trips like this. So, in my mind, without being on the couch for a month, these are not options for our trip in 9 days:

1. Buy a different Jeep
2. Rent a Jeep
3. Rent a vehicle once we get to the keys
4. Take a different vehicle
5. Tow with a trailer (way too much weight on our hitch)
6. Replace the hitch to tow Jeep on a trailer (weight will likely exceed GCWR)
7. Drive behind the RV in the Jeep

Here are the options I am considering:
1. Buy a dolly w/ Brakes and tow the jeep backwards (Cost: 2-3k)
I'm not crazy about this firstly because our hitch is 5k and I know pretty much any dolly will put us over that. Secondly because I'm not crazy about the risks of towing backwards. Renting a dolly is not an option from what I can see unless I straight up lie about what I am towing to the rental company. I also might be wrong, but I am thinking that for 2-3k for a dolly is getting close to what I would pay to potentially replace the transmission.

2. Install a Remco Transmission lube pump (Cost: $1100 + labor)
I have heard terrible things about these. Especially with Chrysler vehicles. Apparently the way the Chrysler's are built the pump clogs up and stops working within a matter of months.

3. Install a Ready Brake and use it with the Jeep running idle (Cost: $450 + around 25 gallons of gas)
I read that pulling a vehicle idle usually yields about 100mpg. Even if I take this average down to 80mpg that will only be 25 gallons for the trip. I already have a bluetooth video monitoring setup so I could put that in the vehicle to monitor the gauges. I think I can install the Ready Brake myself. I already have a Brake Buddy, but I could sell it online to pay for the Ready Brake. The Ready Brake could also still be used once we install the driveshaft disconnect when we get back. Whereas the dolly would be quite a loss when I try to sell it.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Any toad brake that works by pushing the toad's brake pedal will be problematic if the engine is running. That's because the brake power assist is active, but the "pedal pusher" expects a non-power pedal and pushes really hard to make it stop. The result is essentially a brake lock-up. About the only brake system I know of that does NOT push the cars own brake pedal is the M&G, which attaches to the brake master cylinder instead.

If they use FWD on the 2WD models, then a lube pump or tow dolly is your best bet. Everything I read says the 2WD Cherokee is FWD, but check with a Jeep expert on that. However, if they use rear wheel drive, you will probably need a driveline disconnect rather than a lube pump.

Towing backwards on a dolly is not a good idea.

[djbmsu]

IN my mind your option for renting a car is the most cost effective option. Any money you spend before you purchase and then pay labor to have the drive shaft disconnect installed,
is all a total waste of money.

[mfire1339]

The SMI staynplay duo uses the brake booster. Easy adjust-ability.




Mike

[HD4Mark]

How long are you staying? Before we went to the (coincidentally) Florida Keys for the entire winter we went for a winter vacation of about a month if we could get the time off. Not having a reasonably tow-able vehicle we just rented a car when we got there.

If you reserve far enough in advance, might be to late, you can get pretty good deals on rentals. We always went for a convertible. More than once they could not come up with what we reserved and got us something else for the lowest price economy. One year it was a Lincoln Town Car

If t is a short stay I would rent then you can stand back and think about your options. Our '15 Wrangler tows great four down BTW.

[twinboat]

Tow hubs. See if you can pick up tow hubs for the back wheels.

You may need different wheel, but get some used ones.

They used to tow race cars to the track with them.

Edit;
Only found 1 dealer on EBay, 2 week wait and $950.00. Maybe you can find used.

[Gary RVRoamer]

The SMI staynplay duo uses the brake booster. Easy adjust-ability.

Good to know - thanx! Looks promising for mossalot's problem.

[mossalot]

Thank you for all the great ideas guys. I didn't even know they made hubs (even though that won't be an option since I don't see any used).

I'll also look into the SMI staynplay duo.

[dstinch]

Originally Posted by mossalot

Has anybody every pulled a toad 4 down behind their RV while leaving it idle and using a Ready Brake? I have read a Brake Buddy would cause the toad brakes to lock up because of the power brakes being on while the engine is running, but wouldn't something like a Ready Brake work ok?

-------------------

That's the short version. If you want to read on to see why I am to this point, here's the long explanation:

I learned I am going to pay more "stupid tax" yesterday. We went to have our 08 4 Door Wrangler we bought 3 weeks ago set up to be towed 4 down for our upcoming trip to the Florida Keys in 9 days.

As the mechanic was finishing it up, I began looking to see what sequence things needed to be done for the Jeep to disengage the drive shaft to be towed 4 down. That is when it hit me. Our Jeep has no way to disengage the drive shaft. It is a 2 WHEEL DRIVE AUTOMATIC JEEP. I feel like such an idiot.

So now, I am looking for an option to get this Jeep towed with us for our trip. We've already installed the baseplate, light wiring, and Brake Buddy for the Jeep. Once we get back, I am going to have a drive-shaft disconnect installed. The part alone is $1250. I'm not even sure what the labor is yet. This isn't an option for us before the trip because it will be at least 2 weeks before they start building it.

My wife absolutely loves this Jeep. We bought it primarily to pull behind the RV and take on trips like this. So, in my mind, without being on the couch for a month, these are not options for our trip in 9 days:

1. Buy a different Jeep
2. Rent a Jeep
3. Rent a vehicle once we get to the keys
4. Take a different vehicle
5. Tow with a trailer (way too much weight on our hitch)
6. Replace the hitch to tow Jeep on a trailer (weight will likely exceed GCWR)
7. Drive behind the RV in the Jeep

Here are the options I am considering:
1. Buy a dolly w/ Brakes and tow the jeep backwards (Cost: 2-3k)
I'm not crazy about this firstly because our hitch is 5k and I know pretty much any dolly will put us over that. Secondly because I'm not crazy about the risks of towing backwards. Renting a dolly is not an option from what I can see unless I straight up lie about what I am towing to the rental company. I also might be wrong, but I am thinking that for 2-3k for a dolly is getting close to what I would pay to potentially replace the transmission.

2. Install a Remco Transmission lube pump (Cost: $1100 + labor)
I have heard terrible things about these. Especially with Chrysler vehicles. Apparently the way the Chrysler's are built the pump clogs up and stops working within a matter of months.

3. Install a Ready Brake and use it with the Jeep running idle (Cost: $450 + around 25 gallons of gas)
I read that pulling a vehicle idle usually yields about 100mpg. Even if I take this average down to 80mpg that will only be 25 gallons for the trip. I already have a bluetooth video monitoring setup so I could put that in the vehicle to monitor the gauges. I think I can install the Ready Brake myself. I already have a Brake Buddy, but I could sell it online to pay for the Ready Brake. The Ready Brake could also still be used once we install the driveshaft disconnect when we get back. Whereas the dolly would be quite a loss when I try to sell it.

I have 10years and 50,000 miles towing My dodge minivan with a remco lube pump. If I did have a problem I would start the car and let it idle till I got it fixed.

Don

[Big Oil Guy]

I'm thinking the Ready Brake will do you proud. If the Jeep brakes come on too hard, it will take the pressure off the brake pedal. If surging becomes a problem from the brake going on/off/on/off, loosen the brake cable a bit. But, this won't happen......

With my Ready Brake, I have a light on the dash I installed that tells me when the brake is on. I was surprised to find out that it rarely comes on! Only when the toad is trying to "push" me down a hill while I'm braking, or in a semi-panic stop, does the Ready Brake actuate. The rest of the time, the engine brake and coach brakes are all that is necessary. I have one of Roadmasters versions of the Brake Buddy in the garage that I'll give you. After the Ready Brake, anything else would be a major disappointment!

My advice -- slap that Ready Brake on there and don't look back! You might need to get longer coiled safety cables and extend your wiring due to the added foot or so length of the RB. Good Luck!!

[xydial]

A cautionary tale about a ready brake and the car running. I start the car to charge the battery when we stop for meals or fuel. I forgot to turn the car off outside Branson Mo.

Headed down a steep hill (don't ask why I was there) with the PAC brake on and fanning the brakes. DW told me she smelled rubber burning. Looked in the mirrors to see the tires on the toad smoking.

I learned that the ready brake really works AND YOU DON'T WANT THE BRAKE BOOSTER WORKING WHEN THE BRAKE ENGAGES.

Good Luck

[Big Oil Guy]

After reading xydial's post, it occurred to me that my toad only weighs 3000 lbs., and that Jeep might be over 4000 lbs. So, the Ready Brake will tend to come on sooner with the heavier vehicle pushing against it. I still think that if the cable is adjusted looser to compensate for the sensitivity due to booster action, it would probably get you by. After all, your situation is temporary until you get the driveshaft disconnect installed. Then, you can tighten up the RB cable.

[Winepress]

That's so sad to hear of your situation. As someone else posted you might want to rent a car at your destination. Even though I have a toad set up for towing, I will still rent a car if I have a long ride to my destination, but little use for a car. Enterprise will often bring the car to your camp spot. That takes the pressure off until you can get it properly set up.

[Gary RVRoamer]

It's FWD vehicle! Get a tow dolly with brakes for this trip, then solve the brake & lube pump problems later (there is no lube pump available for it right now anyway). Used tow dollies sell ok, so you can probably recover most of the cost.