Originally Posted by 3810brad
Wanting to tow my old 1984 chev 4x4 . .it has automatic with a manuel 4x4 gear box. .wanting to know if its ok to tow with tranny in park and transfer case in nuetral? Never towed a tow vehicle before and also any dos and donts anyone would like to share? My mh is a 1996 30' safari trec with a p30 chassis with a vortec 454 cid
It really doesn't matter which automatic trans you have or, even if it was a stick tranny. What matters is, you say you have a "manual 4x4 gear box". I'm assuming you mean the transfer case is shifted manually instead of todays transfer cases being shifted by an electronic shift motor with a dial on the dash to control them.
If yours in fact, does have a manually shifted transfer case, as in a lever on the floor, and either the letters: 2H-N-4H-4L on the floor/console surrounding that shift lever or, the same lettering on the knob of the shift lever, you'll have no problem towing your truck. But, the point is, you must have an "N" in either case. The transfer case is placed in "N" and, the transmission, if an auto, is placed in park. You're set. Because you see, once the transfer case is placed into Neutral, there's no transfer of the turning gears that migrates its way into either version of the trans, be it auto or stick.
Now, all this only pertains to the logistics of your setting the truck up to tow. As for the weight of that truck, in relations to what the max your coach can tow, well that's a different matter. I don't believe any nomenclature put out by any magazine/write up etc. about weights on certain vehicles. I've proved them WRONG every time.
So, if you haven't done it, you have to find out what your coach ACTUALLY WEIGHS, and that means front, back, total. Then have the truck weighed-AS IT WILL BE TOWED! That means, if you're going to put a bunch of stuff in the bed, i.e. bikes, barbques, fire wood, and any other assortment of items that won't fit in the motor home, then get it weighed with all that in it. You want a "TOTAL" weight you'll be dragging down the road.
Now, add the weights together. If the total exceeds your GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) then, it's up to you to proceed ahead in an over weighted/loaded condition. There's probably a few thousand rigs in that scenario all over the U.S. But, if you're not over the GCWR, you're good to go without worries. Now, if you've determined you'll be able to tow it without worries, then it's a matter of, do you have a steering wheel lock (with key0 or not, I can't remember that year/model of Chevy truck. I think it does have the key in the steering column.
And if it does, another thing I can't remember is, if and when you turn the key to "unlock" the steering, does anything electrical turn on??? You'll have to check on that. I don't think it does but, been way too long.
As for wiring it, you couldn't get a more simple rig to wire. Most guys have a heart attack when someone mentions tying into the factory wiring to make the stock tail light bulbs work as toad lights. It's childs play. You "T" into them just prior to the wires entering the tail light housings. Done! Now, I also add diodes in the factory wiring, just ahead of that new "T" intersection so there's no back feeding into the toads wiring system. Again, Done!
No, you don't have go spend your lifes savings on "Diode Kits" that are sold at Camping World, E-trailer.com or, any other RV/Trailer supplier. All that's needed is a Three-pack of diodes from Radio Shack. They'll cost you a whopping $2.89, heavy huh? And that's it. There's no drilling of the housings and adding bulbs etc. There's no need for that. Good luck.