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Old 05-13-2012, 12:16 PM   #1
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towing ford explorer

Anyone know if I can pull a 1994 Ford Explorer 4x4 four down.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:45 PM   #2
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If it has a automatic trans, then you'll need a transfer case that is "Shiftable" into neutral. If a manual transmission, just put it in neutral.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:12 AM   #3
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Check with REMCO Towing for the info on towing.

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Old 05-16-2012, 07:22 AM   #4
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Is it an Explorer Sport?
Manual trans or auto?
Manual or push button 4x4?
If it is the sport model with manual trans. and push button 4x4 you will need a driveline disconnect.
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az bound View Post
Is it an Explorer Sport?
Manual trans or auto?
Manual or push button 4x4?
If it is the sport model with manual trans. and push button 4x4 you will need a driveline disconnect.
That's only true for 2002 and newer Explorer Sports. From 1996 (built after 12/95) through 2001 Ford used common driveline components. All manual transmission Explorers with 4.0 liter V6's are 4 down towable during those years 1996 - 2001. No Remco Driveline disconnects are necessary. My neighbor and owner of the local transmission repair shop in Port Angeles has a 1996 Explorer Sport (2 Door) with a Ford Installed NTK and has towed his for over 100K miles. Had him explain the year series Ford Driveline to me since I was fooled by Remco myself.
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnQ View Post
That's only true for 2002 and newer Explorer Sports. From 1996 (built after 12/95) through 2001 Ford used common driveline components. All manual transmission Explorers with 4.0 liter V6's are 4 down towable during those years 1996 - 2001. No Remco Driveline disconnects are necessary. My neighbor and owner of the local transmission repair shop in Port Angeles has a 1996 Explorer Sport (2 Door) with a Ford Installed NTK and has towed his for over 100K miles. Had him explain the year series Ford Driveline to me since I was fooled by Remco myself.
Did you notice the OP's is a 1994? I have a 1993 and it required the disconnect
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az bound View Post
Did you notice the OP's is a 1994? I have a 1993 and it required the disconnect
Yep, I did in fact notice. Bronco-II's and First Generation transfer case are in fact towable four down if:

1. Manual Transmission
or
2. The transfer case has a "Shift Arm/Lever"
or
3. A greatly cheaper and less solution to a Push Button Style Ford transfer case is either to swap it out for a shiftable one (Lever), over even add a shift level to the push button transfer case. In the first example, a new rebuilt transfer case can be had on Fleabay for around a $100 and about and hour and a half labor. The second example, you disconnect the electronic push button at the transfer case, and from a junk yard get the shift lever, mount bar, and floor plate boot (you do have to cut the floor), all of which is about the same amount of labor.

From what I understand, the Remco solution is $1,000 and up plus about 3 hours of labor. And the bad part, the so called "New Remco" has had a terrible track record with out of balance parts, and very poor customer service.

B-II's

BW1350 1984-1989 W/external front yoke w/bolt on shift linkage (manual shift)
1984-1990 W/o external front yoke (manual shift) one piece shift linkage
1986-1990 W/o external front yoke (electric shift)
1987-1989 W/external front yoke (manual shift)
1987-1989 W/external front yoke (electric shift)

BW1354 1990 (Electric shift) with speedo hole, with sensor hole fixed front output yoke

Explorers
EExplorer Transfer
BW1354 1991-1995 (Electric Shift) with speedo hole, with sensor hole fixed front output yoke
1991-1995 All (manual shift)
1995-1998 (Electric Shift)rear circular flange front fixed yoke with speedo hole, w/o sensor hole
1998-2000 (Electric Shift)rear circular flange front cup yoke w/o speedo hole, w/o sensor hole
2001-2002 Electric shift, rear circular flange, front cup yoke w/o speedo hole, w/o sensor hole BW without coil

BW4403 1999-2001 AWDBW4404
1996-1997 Viscous drive front and rear flat circular flange with speedo hole
1997 Viscous drive, front cup yoke, rear flat circular flange w/speedo hole
1998 Viscous drive, front cup yoke, rear flat circular flange w/o speedo hole

BW4405 1995-1997 (Electric Shift) circular rear flange, fixed front yoke torque on demand, front & rear sensor, speedo hole
1996-1998 (Electric Shift)front cup yoke, rear circular flange torque on demand, front and rear speed sensor, speedo hole
1998-2001 (Electric Shift)(front & rear speed sensor) torque on demand, front cup yoke rear circular flange w/o speedo hole
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennie View Post
Anyone know if I can pull a 1994 Ford Explorer 4x4 four down.
I was told I could NOT tow my 1996 Ford Explorer 4X4. It has something to do with it not having a separate shifter on the floor and just having the control on the dash.
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbara S. View Post
I was told I could NOT tow my 1996 Ford Explorer 4X4. It has something to do with it not having a separate shifter on the floor and just having the control on the dash.
Somebody told you WRONG!!! The Ford Part Number for the 1996 - 2001 Explorers (2 & 4 door Versions) is F772-TH332-AB. That part number is no longer available from Ford. HOWEVER all is NOT LOST!!!! The Neutral Tow kit is comprised with a Set Of Instructions (the most important Part), a 12 vdc LED Light bulb, and some decals (not Necessary). The LED Bulb and connectors can be had at any radio shack store for less than $10. Here are the instructions (for the Ford Mechanics & their Shop Computer):

1. Verify that the vehicle was built on or after 12/95 via the Safety Compliance Certification Label Vehicle Date Code (located on the driver’s door). Remove the driver’s side knee bolster (4 screws), and move to workbench. Locate the template ( C ) in the kit and install to the bottom right side of the knee bolster. The template ( C ) is marked for proper alignment to the bolster. Drill two (2) 3/16” diameter holes through the template locations indicated. (with the radio shack LED, you only need to drill one hole of the LED diameter)

2. Locate the Indicator Assembly (A) in the kit (the radio shack LED Bulb with connectors). Insert the two prongs on the assembly (A) into the two drilled holes and rotate the assembly upwards until it contacts the knee bolster. Locate the # 6 self tapping screw (D) in the kit and install it through the hole in the bottom of the Indicator Assembly (A). When the Assembly is secured in there should be no movement, or gaps between the knee bolster and the indicator assembly. Replace the driver’s knee bolster in it’s original position.

3. Locate the single position, empty, GRAY Connector retained to the main wire harness or attached to the Instrument Panel in the area of the center instrument Panel support structure. Insert the mating connector, with BLACK wire from the indicator assembly (A). Ensure that the connections snap together.

4. Remove the cover for the on-board diagnostic computer. Locate the RED crimp lock (E) in the kit. Route the remaining RED wire, from the indicator assembly (A) to 6” behind the Onboard diagnostic connector. Locate the ORANGE wire in the Onboard Diagnostic harness (pin # 16) and crimp lock the RED wire to the ORANGE wire. CAUTION: Ensure that both wires are captured and crimped properly. Wrap the crip lock with electrical tape for safety. Using the tie-wrap (B) provided, secure the RED wire from the indicator assembly to the Diagnostic Connector wire bundle.

5. Program the Gem module using SBDS (This is the Important Part That Only A Ford Garage Mechanic can Perform and it takes one hour of shop time)

A) Select body/chassis/electrical Button from main menu

B) Enter vehicle VIN

C) Select “Driveline-Electronic 4 wheel” under Categories and “Neutral Tow Features” Under Tools

D) Follow Tool Instructions.

6. Test the operations of the system as follows:

A) Start the engine to make sure the battery is sufficiently charged.
B) Make sure the vehicle is at a complete stop and the Control-Trac is in 2 WD (for 1996 vehicles) or 4WD ( for vehicles 1997 and newer)
C) Place the automatic transmission shifter in neutral
D) Turn the ignition switch to the Off Position but NOT Lock
E) Depress the brake pedal for 5 seconds
F) The neutral light will initially go into a bulb check; then stay on to indicate the transfer case is in neutral
G) Leave the ignition switch in the Off Position (But NOT Locked) and the transmission shifter in neutral while the vehicle is in tow.

This was featured in an RV Journal Called the Gypsy Journal that comes out monthly and can be found by googling.

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Old 05-16-2012, 06:35 PM   #10
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Thanks for the detailed instructions. Would this modification apply to a 2005 ford explorer with the auto 4X4 (push button controls) with the automatic 5 speed transmission?
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:55 PM   #11
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Thanks for the detailed instructions. Would this modification apply to a 2005 ford explorer with the auto 4X4 (push button controls) with the automatic 5 speed transmission?
YES. Per the Parts Gal at Price Ford in Port Angeles this morning, they can still get the Neutral Tow Kits for the 2002 - 2006 series and for the 2007 - 2010. Of course the price went thru the roof $249 through Ford Accessories.COM. With the later series, you also have to install a micro switch on the floor mount transmission shifter as well as the LED bulb on the dash.

I have been on the look out for a TOAD'able Sport Trac (2003 - current) as a first choice and a 1996 - 2001 Expolorer 2 Door Sport. Both are lift enough to pull/toad with the Safari DP and still have enough grunt to tow my boat back and forth to the boat launch.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:39 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=JohnQ;1178941]Somebody told you WRONG!!!

That "somebody" was the dealer where I bought my motorhome, the RV mechanic I used, and the Ford dealer in my area.
I ended up buying a second car - a Suzuki Sidekick with standard transmission so I would have a tow vehicle.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:50 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=Barbara S.;1179345]
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnQ View Post
Somebody told you WRONG!!!

That "somebody" was the dealer where I bought my motorhome, the RV mechanic I used, and the Ford dealer in my area.
I ended up buying a second car - a Suzuki Sidekick with standard transmission so I would have a tow vehicle.
FYI the 1996 Instructions above for a 1996 NTK, I'd look for a new Ford Dealer & RV Mechanic.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:14 PM   #14
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If you have column shift, all you need is the LED light. If it is a Floor shift (I believe 2006 and later) you need to add a limit switch to the shifter . Ford doesn't sell it anymore but you can order a wiring kit for the Park side of the shifter and mount it in its place. Been there,done that. Still have to have Ford flash the EPROM to enable newtral tow, and half the service guys still won't know what your talking about.
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