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Old 10-21-2015, 09:43 PM   #1
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Towing Issues with our Jeep Wrangler

We pull a 2007 4 door, Automatic Jeep Wrangler behind a 2006 Holiday Rambler Scepter. Have a Blue Ox kit with a Patriot braking system.
We do not have a lift or drop on the hitch as it is pretty level (our service shop was confident this wouldn't be a problem...not sure if it's a factor or not for issue 1).
The system was just installed 2 months ago and we have been on the road for the last month and a half.
That's the back story...

Issue(s):

1. Jeep wheels squeal like crazy around sharper corners (mostly rights, occasional lefts). 30 - 50 KM/h. (yes, ignition is in full Aux mode with steering wheel free and tire condition and pressure is good all round).

2. After 2-3 hours on the road, the battery on the Jeep burns out and we lose the brake buddy. (7 pin cord has been tested and all points are working, including the 12v charge cable)...wiring has been checked twice and is properly installed at the battery point as well.

3. After towing, the engine light on the Jeep comes on and stays on for a few hours of driving, then switches off (had that tested at a service shop and all functions tested ok)?

We set the transfer case to N, tranny to P, ignition to full Aux mode and turn off any and all fans, a/c, radio etc.
Are we doing something wrong or missing a step?
Should a fuse be pulled? If so, which one and from where?...

Hoping for some experience on this...driving through the mountains has been interesting without a brake buddy and a dead Jeep is a pain after every trip.
Help?
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:00 PM   #2
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Found this thread which goes into great detail.

Hope it helps, if you have not already seen it....

Brian
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandToad View Post
.....................................

Issue(s):

1. Jeep wheels squeal like crazy around sharper corners (mostly rights, occasional lefts). 30 - 50 KM/h. (yes, ignition is in full Aux mode with steering wheel free and tire condition and pressure is good all round).

It could be not enough positive caster

2. After 2-3 hours on the road, the battery on the Jeep burns out and we lose the brake buddy. (7 pin cord has been tested and all points are working, including the 12v charge cable)...wiring has been checked twice and is properly installed at the battery point as well.

Are you certain you are providing about 13vdc (with moho engine running) from the moho to the charge cable? If it's wired correctly and your moho alternator is providing charging current I can see no reason the Jeep battery would not stay charged.

3. After towing, the engine light on the Jeep comes on and stays on for a few hours of driving, then switches off (had that tested at a service shop and all functions tested ok)?

That could be because the key has been in the on position for extended period

We set the transfer case to N, tranny to P, ignition to full Aux mode and turn off any and all fans, a/c, radio etc.
Are we doing something wrong or missing a step?
Should a fuse be pulled? If so, which one and from where?...

Hoping for some experience on this...driving through the mountains has been interesting without a brake buddy and a dead Jeep is a pain after every trip.
Help?
Are you sure that your steering wheel locks? Turn the ignition off, remove the key and turn the wheel to verify if it is a locking wheel. Around the '07 model year Jeep made some models without locking steering. Mine is a '13 and there is no steering wheel lock.
Hope all this is of some help.
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:42 AM   #4
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To be sure you have the key in the right position turn it clockwise until the warning gauges on the dash light. Then turn the key back (counter clockwise 1 position. It should now be in the accessory position. The lights on the dash should go out and the steering wheel lock (if equipped) should be disengaged. The key is that there should be No lights on in the dash. If warning or indicator lights are on the key is in the ON position not the ACC position. If the key is in the ON position the battery will run down within a few hours.

The term "pretty level" is subjective and open to interpretation. To be within the operating range specified by the manufacturer there should be less than 3" difference between the attachment points on the Jeep and the motorhome (with the air suspension in the travel position) when the combined unit is on a level surface.

Do the tires make noise when the Jeep disconnected from the motorhome and making turns? Depending on the type of tire and the road surface some noise may be normal. We have Goodyear Silent Armor tires on our 04 Wrangler. They will squeal when making tight corners in asphalt surfaced parking lots even at 2 mph (especially warm asphalt). They will even squeal when making a U turn on a warm asphalt street. The tires have about 20,000 miles on them and are not experiencing abnormal wear.

Has anyone checked the current draw on the Brake Buddy? If it does not draw excessive amperage there is definitely something wrong with the way the "charge line" is connected. It may be that the wire identified as the "charge line" is really only a hot wire intended to power internal lighting on a towed trailer.

We have a 7 pin socket at the rear of our motorhome and there is no wire designated as a "charge line". The connections are the same as those identifiedin this picture:

https://www.google.com/search?q=7+pi...Mma58YqH43M%3A

The black wire will provide 12 volt power, but it may not be enough to offset the draw of the Brake Buddy
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hikerdogs View Post

The black wire will provide 12 volt power, but it may not be enough to offset the draw of the Brake Buddy
Reading 12 volts on a meter disconnected and providing power are two separate things. You need to ensure that current is being delivered. Corrosion, wire size, distance, and load on the toad are all factors.

An easy/simple test is to connect cable to the jeep(not running) and start the RV. If you read the battery on the Jeep with a voltmeter, the voltage should begin to climb once the RV starts, if the system is working.

It is unlikely that the brake box is killing the Jeep battery, if there is any charge from the RV. The brake box (working correctly) should use minimum power except for when braking. That is typically less than 10% of the time, the charging circuit should easily cover the load.

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Old 10-24-2015, 12:41 PM   #6
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Thank you everyone for the feedback. The detailed thread is helpful. We have been towing in the full "on" position as recommended by our RV shop that installed it...thinking this may be the issue.
Will try one position back and see what happens.
Squealing in the corners is still a concern, so will monitor this and address it again if it continues...
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Old 10-24-2015, 01:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandToad View Post
Thank you everyone for the feedback. The detailed thread is helpful. We have been towing in the full "on" position as recommended by our RV shop that installed it...thinking this may be the issue.
Will try one position back and see what happens.
Squealing in the corners is still a concern, so will monitor this and address it again if it continues...
The reason the installer told you to use the full on position is probably because most car cigarette lighter (power ports) are only hot when the ignition is on.

The Jeep (at least the TJ Wrangler) is a bit different. It has 2 power ports side by side in the lower center of the dash. The one on the left (used to be used for the cigarette lighter) has a plain cover over the hole and is only hot when the ignition is in the on position. The one on the right has a cover labeled "Power Outlet" and is always hot.

If you use the "Power Outlet" for the Brake Buddy and leave the ignition key in the ACC position you won't wear down the battery.
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