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Old 04-25-2011, 10:16 PM   #15
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What about a 3rd wheel at the hitch? Ha...I know it sounds ridiculous but just thinking out of the box.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:37 PM   #16
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Why not have a trailer built to accommodate the boat AND motorcycle?

Kinda of a boat trailer with the axle/s moved forward to center the weight and a c channel and tie downs in front of the boat for the bike.
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:03 PM   #17
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Take a look at a swivel wheel (or dual swivel wheel) trailer. They attach to the moho at two points. The trailer doesn't apply too much tongue weight to your moho and perhaps you can have a hitch for the boat on the back of the swivel wheel trailer. I'm NOT saying it can be done.......just suggesting you take a look and decide if it looks doable for your situation.
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:22 AM   #18
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Take a look at a swivel wheel (or dual swivel wheel) trailer. They attach to the moho at two points. The trailer doesn't apply too much tongue weight to your moho and perhaps you can have a hitch for the boat on the back of the swivel wheel trailer. I'm NOT saying it can be done.......just suggesting you take a look and decide if it looks doable for your situation.
Googled it! That's the idea. Not sure if that can happen though. Anybody on here hauling a boat and bike?
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:23 AM   #19
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Why not have a trailer built to accommodate the boat AND motorcycle?

Kinda of a boat trailer with the axle/s moved forward to center the weight and a c channel and tie downs in front of the boat for the bike.
It's a good idea. I'm really surprised that some manufacturer hasn't tackled this yet.
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:25 AM   #20
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Not sure what the problem is other than a light front end. Is it also that the leaf pack will be overloaded? If so, can't you use a thicker leaf pack or air bags?
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:54 PM   #21
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Not sure what the problem is other than a light front end. Is it also that the leaf pack will be overloaded? If so, can't you use a thicker leaf pack or air bags?
The chassis is designed with specific weight restrictions on the front and rear axles, that is determined by the springs as well as the axle itself. That is the axle and springs are designed to handle a specific load range. Build it too sturdy and you waste money and the ride will be rough. Build it too light and you will have warranty issues and field failures.

You have a W20 chassis has a front axle that is rated for 7,500 lbs and a back axle that is rated for 13,500 lbs. Add the two together, you get 21,000 lbs, which is where the 20,700 lbs GVWR (maximum the coach can weigh) comes from.

When the RV is designed the manufacturer chooses a chassis wheel base that will distribute the weight of the vehicle over both axles. Of course this also depends on the interior layout of the RV. One of the techniques is to choose a wheel base that will place the rear axle under a balance point so the the rear overhang can reduce the weight on the front axle. Its a balancing game.

Typically the frame is not long enough to extend all the way to the end of the rear overhang, so the frame rails are extended to support the box and to have somewhere to mount the trailer hitch. This extension will be designed to handle the installed trailer hitch and the weight of the box. This is why the trailer hitch on the gas Class A RV's have a 500 lb tongue/ 5,000 lb toad limit.

To make this more real lets use your RV specs. The distance between the axles is 228", the distance from the rear axle to the hitch is 116. This is basically a 51% ratio.

If we add 1,500 lbs to the trailer hitch, the frame extension will need to be substantially beefed up (note that this adds weight). So now the additional weight is 1,700 lbs. Using the RV specs if 1,700 lbs is added to the hitch, the front axle will be unloaded by 49% of 1,700 lbs or 833 lbs.

This is not too bad, but the load on the rear axle will increase by 1,700 lbs plus the 833 lbs that shifted towards the rear from the front axle, or 2,533 lbs.

I couldn't find the base weight of the Allegro 32B for 2004, but for 2005 the base weight (weight with no fuel, water, waste, passengers, cargo, nothing) is 17,000 lbs. This leaves 20,700 - 17,000 lbs, or 3,000 lbs of stuff.

It is a sad truth that most gas RV's (I would suggest upwards of 90%) are loaded to a weight that exceeds their GVWR as they sit in front of your house ready for a trip. A full tank of gas weighs 546 lbs, 25 gallons of water is 200 lbs, clothes, tools, toys, people, etc.

The questions are;
  • How will the lifetime of the rear axle be affected by adding 2,500 lbs over its rating?
  • Will the reduced weight of 800 lbs on the front axle affect the steering?
  • How much will it cost to reinforce the frame extension to the hitch, and can you find someone that is willing to do the work?
  • How much would it cost for a custom trailer for the bike and boat?
  • Will the weight of the bike, boat and trailer exceed the 5,000 lb tow limit of the 32B (hitch capacity)?
You should weigh your RV as it is ready for a trip and measure how much weight is already on the front and rear axles.

I know I am over weight on my RV, but I have measured it and am comfortable with it. The alternative was to switch to a pusher diesel and I can't afford it.
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:07 PM   #22
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That was awesome Alvin!!! Great calcs!
Where can i weigh this thing just so I know what I have currently? My idea doesn't look promising now that you've laid it out, but I definitely want to weigh the rig as you mentioned just to know where I stand.
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:20 PM   #23
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That was awesome Alvin!!! Great calcs!
Where can i weigh this thing just so I know what I have currently? My idea doesn't look promising now that you've laid it out, but I definitely want to weigh the rig as you mentioned just to know where I stand.
Depends on where you live.... there are pay places, look in the telephone book under public scale and give some of them a call.

If you are near any sort of agricultural area there could be scales that are left on after hours, or are free if you don't need a certificate. Oregon and Washington has these are spread out all over the state. Finding or knowing where they are can be tough sometimes, because these are typically county maintained. Ask your local farmer.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:02 PM   #24
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Hi Dave, To answer your question, I had no problem with the hitch. I had a special platform manufactured about 3 feet long and the with of the motorhome. I attached it to the regular hitch on the motorhome and had two additional hitches welded to the motorhome frame. I was then able to hitch the boat behind this platform. All the extra weight bent the left rail which ran the length of the motorhome. When it bent, the bumper dropped 2 to 3 inches and it also took out a rear stabilizer bar. When I brought it in for service, they were going to remove the gas tank and holding tanks to repair it. Once they lifted upon the lift, the rail popped back without having to do any other work, so I was pretty lucky. I now have a DP and I would love to get that hydrolic lift if it were not so expensive. Mark
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:11 PM   #25
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This company custom builds combination trailers. Might be worth giving them a call.....

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Old 04-27-2011, 04:18 PM   #26
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Question comes to mind can you tandem tow behind motorhome if you can then tow a pickup with motorcycle in bed towing boat behind truck I see a lot of people tandem towing with travel trailers.
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:53 PM   #27
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I have the Hydra Lift but I have 45ft with a tag axle. Hydra lift screws up the front ends on some coaches. Takes the weight off the front
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:55 PM   #28
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Call a Hydralift Dealer or call up Brad at hydralift. This lift has been installed on just about every coach/chassis and a lot of 5th wheels. A qualified shop will be able to add the extra structure needed and Hydralift gives us dealers basic install guidelines and support for specific install applications
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