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Old 05-16-2011, 12:44 PM   #43
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You may be able to extend your trailer tongue the 2-3 foot but that would place more weight on the trailer axles which may in turn cause more problems unless you beef up the springs and maybe the bearings and tires too. You could buy a larger trailer. Man, Aren't toys fun?
The amount of weight transferred to the trailer axle is minimal and will not require heavier springs.

Why?

The total weight of the trailer is the weight on the axle(s) plus the tongue weight. If the trailer and boat weigh 5,000 lbs, the boat is carefully positioned to put 4,750 lbs on the axle(s) and 250 lbs on the tongue.

So assuming the tongue extension weighs 100 lbs and we reposition the boat to keep a 250 lb tongue weight, the additional weight on the axle(s) would be 100 lbs. In essence the additional weight is the weight of the tongue extension.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:35 PM   #44
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AlvinC, Ok I think that I am on the right path after speaking to my boat trailer manufacture. I was told that I can lengthen my tongue by two feet and not have to reposition my boat and this would not change a thing or affect the towing ability. This however would increase my tongue weight but only slightly, it is now 340lbs. This is where I am at today, Hydralift 288lbs, Harley 620lbs, tongue weight of boat trailer 340lbs. Now the only thing left to do is look at my GVRW and figure out how much weight will be on my rear axle, right??? Any help or guidance would be appreciate. Thanks
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:13 PM   #45
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I am looking to haul / tow a couple of HD bikes and a 4700 lb boat and trailer behind our MH as well. It has a overbuilt receiver set up on it already. I think something like racecity RV products tandem tow maybe better suited for two bikes and a boat. We just purchased a 2009 Itasca Meridian 34 foot with the 350 hp cummins, so power should not be an issue. The hitch has a 10,000 lb tow rating.
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:25 PM   #46
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Me too. How about a cargo trailer?
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:02 PM   #47
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Boat is 21 foot long without the trailer.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:50 PM   #48
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I am looking to haul / tow a couple of HD bikes and a 4700 lb boat and trailer behind our MH as well. It has a overbuilt receiver set up on it already. I think something like racecity RV products tandem tow maybe better suited for two bikes and a boat. We just purchased a 2009 Itasca Meridian 34 foot with the 350 hp cummins, so power should not be an issue. The hitch has a 10,000 lb tow rating.
I pull a toad with a trailer behind it no problem the trailer follows along but it seems to me if you had 2 trailers it would cut corners to much. Can't wait to here what happens keep us posted.
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:52 PM   #49
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I pull a toad with a trailer behind it no problem the trailer follows along but it seems to me if you had 2 trailers it would cut corners to much. Can't wait to here what happens keep us posted.
You do realize that's illegal just about everywhere? Double tows are allowed in some states, but the first one has to be a kingpin/fifth wheel type hitch.

Just saying...
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:21 PM   #50
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I am looking to haul / tow a couple of HD bikes and a 4700 lb boat and trailer behind our MH as well. It has a overbuilt receiver set up on it already. I think something like racecity RV products tandem tow maybe better suited for two bikes and a boat. We just purchased a 2009 Itasca Meridian 34 foot with the 350 hp cummins, so power should not be an issue. The hitch has a 10,000 lb tow rating.
Up smoke,
Well Sir, without going into a long dissertation of what's right and what's not, I was in the same "boat" so to speak as you. But, I was not wanting to haul a boat. We have an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 CAT and am removing the Hydralift as we speak. You see, I'd just about bet that your rear axle GAWR is the same as ours but, you'd have to check to make sure. Ours is 17,500# . Now, here's the deal. So many guys give out all kinds of numbers but, are not really aware of what actually happens back there when that kind weight is added.

You see, you're not adding the weight directly over the rear axle, you're adding it several feet behind the rear axle. So, before anyone gets their panties in wad here, here's some actual numbers from certified scales. Our rig weighed in at 16,900# (in the rear) before adding the Hydralift and, a 2008 Honda Goldwing GL 1800. That bike, as equipped, weighs around 850 lbs. The Hydralift is way closer to 300 lbs. than the other weights listed.

So, take the GAWR of the rear at, 17,500 #, then subtract the actual weight of the rear loaded axle, and you have only 600 # left to play with.

Now, add an 350# lift, (I modified it, add more to it) and, an 850 # GoldWing and you should, by basic math, have only added 1200# to the rear of the coach. And, since I had 600# to play with, that meant I was only over weight by, 600#. Now, to me, that's not any big deal at all. The suspension can handle it, and the tires could.

But, here's the real numbers. When we rolled into Seven Feathers Resort/Casino/RV park in Oregon last year, I pulled into the fuel docks (big truck fueling station too) and, right off to my left was a set of scales. I went over and asked if I could weigh my entire rig. She said no problem, only $7.50. So, I finished fueling and, proceeded onto the scales.

Wow! was I off. My rear weight, with bike on and lift on was 20,100 # . Now, remember, my GAWR for the rear is: 17,500 #. So, using advanced math, that's whopping 2600 lbs. OVER WEIGHT!. I asked her when they were last calibrated and she replied, the state inspector just tested it that afternoon. So, I'm pretty much guessing it was dead on with accuracy.

So, here's the point. As you can tell, the leverage involved by "cantilevering" that weight back there is tremendous. Now, up to today, I've done no damage. I've had no issues. The rig has always performed flawless. I've had no wandering issues, no ill handling problems what so ever. In numbers difference, the cantilever effect only removed 280 lbs. off the front end.

But, here's the real point I'm trying to get across. At present, if I keep it the way I've been doing it, I'm 2600 # over weight on the rear. That's 2600# over the weight limit of the TIRES. That means, 1300 lbs. per side, which means, 650 lbs. PER TIRE, OVER WEIGHT. Now, if I blow one of the rear duals, that immediately puts the other 650# onto the remaining tire for the total of 1300 # over weight on ONE TIRE!

So, my point to you is, do all you calculation, but realize that you can calculate all you want, but in the end, get it weighed and see what it actually weighs.
Scott
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:33 PM   #51
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The best option is to purchase a new toy hauler motorhome. Simply pull down the rear wall which converts to an entry ramp. Drive your bikes in, tie down, re-install ramp to motorhome. Connect boat to hitch and off you go. The new ones are very pricey, however, One manufactured by Optimax between 05 - 08 may be found on the internet at reasonable price.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:30 AM   #52
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The best option is to purchase a new toy hauler motorhome. Simply pull down the rear wall which converts to an entry ramp. Drive your bikes in, tie down, re-install ramp to motorhome. Connect boat to hitch and off you go. The new ones are very pricey, however, One manufactured by Optimax between 05 - 08 may be found on the internet at reasonable price.
CruisinCondo,
We looked at those. It's not a bad idea. The main problem we had with that type of setup is, about 99.9% of them have the bed "over" the garage. So, old folks like us, have to climb stairs and, get into a semi-cramped sleeping quarters. I like the idea of an enclosed setup for carrying the bike, it sure keeps the bike cleaner and more secure but, it's just that climbing those stairs and having to bend over all the while up there, did/does not appeal to us. Otherwise we might have had one.
Scott
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