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09-18-2018, 10:28 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 90
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Towing Opinions
We are in the process of purchasing a vehicle to tow behind mh. we are looking at ‘19 Jeep Cherokee and will be behind a ‘17 Ventana 4037. I have some questions regarding tow equipment, such as............
1. In tow bars I see there are some that are aluminum and some that are steel. Besides assumed weight difference is there a difference in performance between aluminum and steel?
2. I realize braking systems are different and many opinions are out there but are there preferences, things I need to key on, etc.
Thanks in advance for the insight.
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09-18-2018, 11:22 AM
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#2
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"Formerly Diplomat Don"
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 24,080
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"Agilitydog"...…."RVNewbie55" is absolutely correct and there is more information than you can possibly read so I'll say a couple of things and then recommend you go to that forum.
Tow Bars....They come in steel and aluminum with tow ratings from typically 5K to 10K. Roadmaster and Blue Ox are two very popular models. I like Roadmaster as I think they make a better quality tow bar and they incorporate the tow cable into the arms, one less thing to mess with.
There is also a company called ReadyBrute making an all in one tow bar that has a brake system built into the tow bar. It's a surge brake system that as the toad pushes against the coach, when braking, a cable is pulled and depresses the toad brakes. In my opinion, this is a great and inexpensive system if you have a lighter vehicle, like a Honda CRV. It's not my choice for heavier vehicles.
Brake systems.....Typically, when you buy something, if you buy the most expensive version of that product, you get the best. This is true with many things, but not braking systems. There are so many versions and systems. You have the surge brake type described above, electric systems that use an arm to depress the brake pedal and air systems that use proportional braking, by using the coach air, obviously, these only work with DP's.
So....I recommend...don't go cheap on a tow bar. I also recommend that you buy the base plates from the same company that makes your tow bar. When it comes to braking systems you have some decisions to make. I use the SMI Air For One, now owned by Demco. It uses my coach air to stop the toad. Once the system is installed, nothing else is required but to connect your 12 volt cable and air hose with quick connect ends.
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Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 (Freightliner)
2019 Ford Raptor
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09-18-2018, 04:12 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agilitydog
We are in the process of purchasing a vehicle to tow behind mh. we are looking at ‘19 Jeep Cherokee and will be behind a ‘17 Ventana 4037. I have some questions regarding tow equipment, such as............
1. In tow bars I see there are some that are aluminum and some that are steel. Besides assumed weight difference is there a difference in performance between aluminum and steel?
2. I realize braking systems are different and many opinions are out there but are there preferences, things I need to key on, etc.
Thanks in advance for the insight.
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I am presuming from your post that you intend to two with the toad all 4 wheels down.
I use the Ready Brute Elite:
ReadyBrute RV Tow Bar 8000 lbs Aluminum Ready Brute - $699.00
This combines the towbar and the brake into one unit. I have used proportional breaking systems in the past and I find the surge brake of the Ready Brake superior in that once adjusted it is always adjusted and the adjustment is not critical. If you add more weight in your toad for some reason Ready Brake still works the same!
You will still need a base plate on your toad and with the Ready Brake a minor modification that connects to the brake pedal. In every case you will need toad lights. That is the same regardless of your choice.
Do a little research and you may find this is the least expensive option for towing 4 down.
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2003 34' Georgetown on W20 Workhorse Chassis. UltraRV power mods. Doug Thorley Headers and MagnaFlow 12589 mufflers. Front Sumo Springs, Rear P32 Sumo Springs, UltraRV Track Bar.
1998 Jeep Toad.
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09-18-2018, 04:24 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Elk Grove CA
Posts: 1,618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeloduster
I am presuming from your post that you intend to two with the toad all 4 wheels down.
I use the Ready Brute Elite:
ReadyBrute RV Tow Bar 8000 lbs Aluminum Ready Brute - $699.00
This combines the towbar and the brake into one unit. I have used proportional breaking systems in the past and I find the surge brake of the Ready Brake superior in that once adjusted it is always adjusted and the adjustment is not critical. If you add more weight in your toad for some reason Ready Brake still works the same!
You will still need a base plate on your toad and with the Ready Brake a minor modification that connects to the brake pedal. In every case you will need toad lights. That is the same regardless of your choice.
Do a little research and you may find this is the least expensive option for towing 4 down.
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I made the same mistake, the link above is for the Ready Brute towbar only. Here's the correct link for the Ready Brute Elite combined towbar/brake unit:
https://www.adventurerv.net/elite-re...e-p-28115.html
The Ready Brake braking system itself can be used with a variety of towbars:
Ready Brake Receiver - By N.S.A. | Hitchsource.com
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BobC
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
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09-18-2018, 05:27 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 1,004
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I would not buy another aluminum tow bar. I had a aluminum Blue Ox that broke at the yoke due to metal fatigue. Caused my tow car to bounce off the back of the coach. Thank goodness for safety cables. Blue Ox stepped up and fixed the coach, car and sent me a new steel tow bar.
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Tigerfan1
2016 DSDP 4369, Freightliner Chassis, AF One brake system, 2016 Chevy Equinox
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09-18-2018, 06:16 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Stillwater, Ok
Posts: 4,812
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Towing Opinions
I am very prejudiced towards steel tow bars. They are heavy to deal with but I have seen the aluminum break and the metal tear. Get the heaviest, highest rated one you can find, several good brands. It can be a life-death situation if it gets loose. In the same vein I favor the AirForce I unit. It is expensive but simple, very reliable and very effective. All JMHO
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2020 New Aire 3543
2018 Lincoln MKX
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09-18-2018, 07:24 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 737
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X2 on the recommendations for the SMI Air Force 1 braking system by Demco. I don't have a diesel coach, so I can't use that one. I use the SMI stay n play duo braking system by Demco. Similar to the Air Force 1 in that it uses air to operate the brake pedal. The Stay n Play duo has a small air compressor to supply air and vacuum to the power brake unit in the Toad. The SMI systems are permanently mounted in your toad, out of the way and unobtrusive. Same ease of use as the Air Force 1. Connect your toad, flip a switch to turn the system on. I pull the break away pin to verify operation, put the pin back in, gear select in neutral, steering wheel not locked, and drive away. True progressive braking, with power brakes. I have the steel Demco tow bar. I have considered getting an aluminum tow bar for ease of handling the lighter weight, but after reading the previous posts I will stick with my steel tow bar.
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Ken & Ara Brewer
2020 Newmar Ventana 3407 DP. (Previous 2016 Newmar Canyon Star 3710 gasser). 2014 V-6 Chevy Equinox Toad.
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