towing poll

[rayw]

George

You might contact Jeep to see if you could remove a fuse(s) so the miles won't "rack up" if you tow 4-down. Luck...

[Webster]

Hmmmm...forgot about the registration. Have to check on the cost of that. I used a dolly once on a moving van and I could move it around by hand. I'll have to try the KarKaddy to see how difficult it is. Also, I hadn't thought about doing it in wet weather or having to unhook it at a gas station and I don't have a hitch on the back.

I check with the Jeep dealer and two techs said that a dolly was the better way to go. I guess I have some more thinking to do on this.

Good idea about the fuse disconnect.

[abarkl]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:

You'd also have the yearly state registration fee for your dolly. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have used my dolly for only 4 months, 6 trips, and 2500 miles; there is no registration required in AZ, I paid about $15/year to insure it against theft, had to put the toad on twice in poor weather (rain and snow), but I don't regret my choice. I change cars (toads) often and don't want the expense and hassle of base plates.

[ChuckC]

No registration required on a tow dolly in ohio either.

[moisheh]

Dollies are on big PIA. They are OK for snowbirds who only use them twice a year. For any on else what do you do when you get to your first nite after leaving home and dcide to go out for pizza and a beer? You take the car off the dolly and then go through the trouble of reconnecting. Tow bar is much easier. Some CG's may not have a pull thru site. You will have to park the toad and dolly somewhere then return to site. We have been flat towing for more than 30 years and would never consider a dollie. As for cost of towbar vs. dollie. If the small diff. is going to decide your preference you had better find a new recreation. RVing is not cheap.

[Webster]

Hey Moisheh....you convinced me. I'll take 30 years experience over my short-term thinking any day. Hadn't thought too much about having to back the MH into a site. Also, I can see that the TB is a lot quicker.

I did some more research and I think I can bring the cost down to about the same. The installation of the base plate and the light kit will definitely put it over. As you said, RVing isn't cheap. But, I've only got two years before I have to go on dialysis (diabetic from Agent Orange), if that long, and this has been a life-long dream of mine...to be a fulltimer.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Webster:
But, I've only got two years before I have to go on dialysis (diabetic from Agent Orange), if that long, and this has been a life-long dream of mine...to be a fulltimer. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I agreed with the majority that a 4 down towing solution is a superior strategy for many reasons.

Chief, How did you get exposed, PBRs or UH1Bs? I was in III Corps and present for Operation Ranch Hand.

[JeepGal]

Thanks guys for all the great input and advice. Im convinced! My father was leaning that way anyway, and now its just a matter of him doing it. (probably next week)

So next question, (hehehehehe) Anyone have a favorite tow bar? Or any bad experience with any certain brand?


They are on their first shake down right now, brand new 05 Bounder 34F Currently parked in front of my house, but will head out to the campground tomorrow.

This is their 4th motorhome, but the first time they have towed anything

Thanks again!

Tam

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JeepGal:
So next question, (hehehehehe) Anyone have a favorite tow bar? Or any bad experience with any certain brand? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Tam, The favorite here has always seemed to be the Blue Ox Towbar.

I like the company because they support every large FMCA Rally and many other events with their rally technical and sales teams. They will actually come out and find you in the campground and they just love to look over their gear and see if there are any problems.

These field adjustments normally occur without any cost to the customer.

You can do no better than Blue Ox!

You can see a fair amount of their products on RV Upgrades.com.

[Webster]

From what I've seen, I agree with DriVer that Blue Ox seems the best. The Roadmaster also looks pretty good and may be a tad less expensive. I recommend getting one like the Falcon2 which can be put on easily by one person.

I do have a question about base plates. Does anyone have experience with the Roadmaster brackets? They are less expensive and seem easier to install than a whole plate.

[moisheh]

Webster: I have installed both the Roadmaster and the Blue Ox brackets. They were on different vehicles. I think they both make a good product. I do not like the one piece Blue Ox brackets. Much harder to install. On my Tacoma I had to cut off part of the front crossmember and even then they would not fit. Finally had to "tweak" the brackets out ward by 3/4 of an inch. Then had to suck the brackets back into position. What could have been a 2 to 3 hour installation took much longer. I called Blue Ox and they told me that every vehicle is slightly different in dimensions. This is partially true. Howevber I think they made a mistake in the design. This was a new bracket that they just built a month ago for the first time. I was not impressed. If I had gone with the 2 piece Roadmaster I could have installed them in no time without cutting the frame. There is another advantage to Roadmaster. The removable part of your brackets will have a riser. That is the bracket raises the connection point for your tow bar. This means your tow bar will ride more level in some instances . The Blue Ox system does look better when the vehicle is disconnected. Sure was a lot esier to install tow bars on vehicles from the 80's and earlier when they still had real bumpers and frames !

[Webster]

Yahhh....I pretty well planned on using Roadmaster. I priced everything at Camping World in Bakersfield for a total of $2,081.96 (Falcon2, BrakePro, Safety Cables, Brackets, wiring kit, toad wiring). Without the $19.95 membership, the cost is $2,313.19. I'm planning on having them do the installation as it's difficult for me to climb around under the vehicle. I'm not very mechanical and want to be sure it's done right.

But, I have a question, what about protection to Eugene the Toad? I've seen skirts but couldn't find one in the on-line catalog. But I've seen a lot of towed vehicles and with no protection. Is it really needed?

[moisheh]

Webster: Your going to camping World is a good idea. BUT I would not buy the Brake Pro. Before a war starts this is MY personal opinion! I do not like any of the against the seat systems. I think they are all mickey mouse and prone to problems. I dids not note what you are using for a tow coach. If it is diesel I would go for the M &G. If it is gas then I would use the US gear. Please note: presently I do not use a brake system. I was waiting for some regulatory body or testing agency to certify them. It appears this wont happen anytime soon. I will be buying one of the 2 systems. $1000 for a sytem that may not work or worse yet could damage your toad brakes is just not a good idea. I did try a Brake pro and returned it next day. PIA to use. If you go to RV.net a gentleman named "Pulsar" has done a lot of research on brake systems. Read and enjoy.

[Fred B.]

Just a thought, I went to the FMCA GLASS rally in Berrien Springs MI over Memorial day wknd & there were at least 300 toads (probably a lot more than that) in the parking area alloted for them & only nine dollies in attendance.