Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Toads and Motorhome Related Towing
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-16-2006, 03:42 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2
I have a 2002 Workhorse chassis class A motorhome that I want to tow an enclosed car trailer.When looking at trailers have gotten different opinions on welding frame to handle tounge wieght.What are people doing.The two options I am looking at is welding rear frame or a trailer toad.Just like to know what is working best for someone towing with motorhome.
Thanks
Harry
__________________

__________________
Harry Sycks II is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 04-16-2006, 03:42 PM   #2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2
I have a 2002 Workhorse chassis class A motorhome that I want to tow an enclosed car trailer.When looking at trailers have gotten different opinions on welding frame to handle tounge wieght.What are people doing.The two options I am looking at is welding rear frame or a trailer toad.Just like to know what is working best for someone towing with motorhome.
Thanks
Harry
__________________

__________________
Harry Sycks II is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2006, 04:08 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Glendale, Arizona
Posts: 160
Wish my Workhorse could tow that kind of a load. Towing my Wrangler 4 down is near the limit for my model...
__________________
Robert ,N7SLD

2005 Itasca Sunova 30B/Workhorse
Robert & Kiki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2006, 04:38 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Crossville,TN USA
Posts: 437
Harry, before you go to welding you should check the GVW and GCWR of your MH and the weight of whatever trailer and "stuff" you might be considering. Frankly, if the answers don't jive I would not proceed any further.

Similarly, what will the overall combined length be, i.e. MH plus trailer, plus the trailer hitch.

Assuming you get through both of these steps I'll tell you what I do with a 40' pusher and a 20' trailer with a 5' hitch. All of these lengths are rounded and I actually come in at 64'8" overall length. My trailer when loaded with car and other "stuff" comes in at 9300 odd pounds and the difference between my GVW and GCWR is 10,000# and the manufacturer's hitch on the MH is also 10,000#.

Being a 20' trailer it has two axles each with electric brakes and the MH has a Prodigy brake controller wired in. Since this trailer was built for me I spec'd. 6,000# axles vs. the more normal 3500# or 5000# ones. Getting the greater capacity axles also allowed me to get 10 ply 16" tires vs. the standard 8 ply 15" tires. Likewise a 36" or 48" hitch is generally considered standard and I upgraded to 60" to give me added "kiss" protection between the rear of the MH and the front of trailer. The longer hitch also makes backing up without jacknifing a little easier. The 60" hitch also is constructed with 3 "I" beams vs. 2 on the shorter hitches. I also spec'd. the floor to be 3/4" on 12" center as some brands come through with 5/8" on 16" centers.

Did I go overboard- maybe, maybe not. Once I had decided on the length that I wanted these upgrades and a few other creature features caused the price to increase about $2400- which over the long haul I did not consider earth shaking.

We have towed this trialer for the last 16 months some 20-24,000 miles and have no regrets. Pre trailer we towed 4 down for 4 and 1/2 years and I doubt that that will ever be part of our style in the future. If you have any furter questions let me know, Ken, '04 DSDP...
__________________
Ken Roberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Open car trailer behind a Class C Benny Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 2 12-07-2007 01:59 PM
Class A Towing an Enclosed Trailer (help with brake controller) GLWilliams58 Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 5 08-13-2007 01:45 PM
Towing a trailer behind a trailer Comfort Trailer Towing and Tow Vehicles Discussion 8 09-19-2005 09:54 AM
Class C or Travel Trailer? wallacemf iRV2.com General Discussion 10 01-30-2005 02:59 PM
Class C or Travel Trailer? wallacemf New Member Check-In 7 01-15-2005 04:44 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.