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Old 01-04-2015, 08:44 PM   #1
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Towing vehicle

We have a Class A 30' motorhome and would like to tow a vehicle. We are wondering what are the steps we need to take in order to do this. We haven't purchased our tow vehicle yet, but have talked to a few people who recommend the Blue Ox towing system. Any recommendations out there or suggestions? Thanks!

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Old 01-04-2015, 08:54 PM   #2
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Suggest to check into the Ready Brute Elite system. Tow bar with integrated braking system. Well priced, works well.

Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:03 PM   #3
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We have used the RoadMaster system since we started towing four down. Have also used a KK-460 tow dolly and a semi home built dolly before that.
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:59 PM   #4
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Hi! You first need to know the towing capacity of your coach. Then consider whether you want to tow with 4 wheels down (most recommended) or with a tow dolly (added expense and another piece of hardware to store and manage at your campsite). You will have a bigger pool of vehicles to select from if using a dolly as fewer vehicles are capable of being towed with all wheels down.

Once you settle on a vehicle, you will then need to select a tow bar system that will work with both the car and coach (match to car weight) and then choose a braking system for the towed vehicle (I use Air Force One and love it....no in the car setup...just hitch and go). Be prepared to spend up to $1800 to get your car tow ready.

Hope this helps.
Stan & Jacquie
2007 Monaco Knight DFT 40'
2012 Equinox w/Air Force I, Blue Ox Alpha & Base, 600 Watts Solar.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:01 PM   #5
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Oooops.".......almost forgot.....be sure to choose a car thsatbhas a weight well under the coach's towing capacity.
Stan & Jacquie
2007 Monaco Knight DFT 40'
2012 Equinox w/Air Force I, Blue Ox Alpha & Base, 600 Watts Solar.
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:22 PM   #6
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Stan is right, your first item to do is weigh your MH when loaded_+water tank full, and of course all passengers and pets. Only then will you know how much weight you may safely tow.
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA."We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution. "Abraham Lincoln"
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:29 AM   #7
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(also see the "toads and MH towing" blog here at the forum for an in depth discussion on this topic...)
Colorado '15 Winnebago Forza 34T w/MKZ hybrid toad
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:32 AM   #8
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Thanks so much for your help everyone. I know the RV has towed a smaller pick up before, so I guess a small car, which we are looking for will do the job. We are going to tow flat, have checked out the Blue ox system too but will check out your recommended ones as well. Alex
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:53 AM   #9
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First: Select a vehicle, SOME can be easily towed 4 down, Some with modification, Some must be dolly towed or trailered.

now: Once you have a towable, If needed do the mod (Generally a Remco LP-1 Lube pump)

Then you need a towed light system for the tail,stop and turn lights, IF you need an LP-1 Kit, this is included, else you have to make a choice, there are basically 3.1 systems
Diode kit: uses original lights, the diodes pass power only one way, like a check valve)
Add-a-lamp (I think this specific name is Trade Marked but it is descriptive so I use it in the generic) This sytem you drill a hole in the tail light holder and snap in an additional lamp, Completly independent of Vehicle's own lights.
"Tow Lights" these either strap on or magnetically mount to the vehicle, the .1 is wired or wireless.. I do not really like this system.

Now Brakes: No matter the state criminal and traffic law YOU need brakes. With all wheels braking your consist (RV + Towed) will stop up to 30% faster (Source US-Gear) than without towed brakes (NOTE: That would be a heavy towed and a light motor home) This can lead to bad things if you rear end someone.

You have several options here

Ready Brake (Comes as an option with the Ready Brute tow bar) And the Auto Stop (Blue-Ox) are surge brakes, cable operated, self adjusting for the most part, progressive and proportional when you slow the motor home the towed presses against the tow bar, this causes the towed brakes to be applied, the harder you stop, the harder they stop.

Good if you tow often.. I have heard of the cable sizing up if you are a seasonal RVer. This will be my NEXT system

M&G,, i your motor home has air brakes and this system will fit on your towed.... Very nice system, 100% invisible to driver of towed, works well

US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator (For all motor homes) this system is nearly as invisible to towed driver (Small bracked on brake arm, note this applies to the Surge Brake systems and most others save pedal pushers) gives you the most control over towed brakes of any system, You can adjust gain (All the way to disabled) you can manually set towed brakes (Useful under SOME conditions) is very flexible, this was my LAST system.

Air Force One, invisible brake, Stay & play,,, read the flyers, all good.

Box in the driver's seat systems (Even Brake, Brake Buddy) these are pedal pushers, they have to be installed every time you tow and stored when you drive the tow, Too much oppertounity for a mistake costing you a brake job, or a "Oh we are only going a short ways, I'll just forget it, too much work" and then regretting that decision.
Home is where I park it!
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Old 01-05-2015, 07:15 PM   #10
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The Ready Brake tow bar is likely to be my next setup.

Kevin & Lisa
2008 Damon Tuscany 4076
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