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Old 05-27-2009, 08:36 PM   #43
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Towing

My Mercedes C230 cannot be towed with a Dolly according to everything I have read.

I have considered renting a trailer for a couple of weeks if it is not too costly but I hope I can find a reasonable price for a used one. Of course I have no idea yet what is reasonable.

Thanks


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Old 05-28-2009, 12:09 AM   #44
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Hi Sam
I have been towing my 2004 maxima (3600 lbs) for two years and 23000 miles on flat roads and mountain passes for two years on a custom built alum open car hauler with an air damm on front and alum tandum wheels and the car looks like new.
I can back it up if I have to and if I am just passing through I look for a pull through camp spot.
I have some other toys that I like to bring along sometimes instead of a car and this works for me.
Yes it takes a little longer to load but I hardly even know it is there when going down the road. PS Not cheap--$8000 plus Can ( It's a nice trailer)
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:32 PM   #45
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4 down a HHR with Automatic and I think the smaller cars have less wheel fender room so more trouble getting straps on -off just My .02 and My key is a no chip no start key so a no go by by But if they want it I will get a new one...also storage of a dolly is a pain to Me..I have towed a bunch of miles with the HHR as My storage on wheels chairs,blue boy,and a little more.off and on the tow bar about 5min. tops.rain or shine....Good Day Bushman
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:50 PM   #46
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We put an unchipped key in our Vue and since we put a hidden toggle switch in for the fuse, ain't nobody going anywhere no how. You know your lifestyle as to wether you want to use a trailer but we like the ease of towing 4 down.
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Old 05-28-2009, 07:12 PM   #47
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Checkout the Dignhy tow 2/3 down the main page on the right of Motorhome Magazine. MotorHome Magazine: Making your RV travels easierThis issue shows tow weights for MH Class A and C. I can see your concerns and the dolly may be good, for cost, you may need a set of tow lights. Then trying to find a place to store the dolly. From some I have see try to fit it under the back of the MH after set up. Be sure to remove when departing.
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:24 AM   #48
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Time to hook up and go with 4 down; 5 minutes;
time to load car in trailer then hook up trailer to motorhome; from 1 to three hours ( Ive watched people doing it).
I'll take 4 down every time.
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:49 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert h View Post
Time to hook up and go with 4 down; 5 minutes;
time to load car in trailer then hook up trailer to motorhome; from 1 to three hours ( Ive watched people doing it).
I'll take 4 down every time.

I know I'm new here but [1 to 3 hours] must of been a union job..I know I can have the race truck loaded tied down and be going down the road in less than a half hour by my self..
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:35 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by Trueblue R/T View Post
I know I'm new here but [1 to 3 hours] must of been a union job..I know I can have the race truck loaded tied down and be going down the road in less than a half hour by my self..
I'm sure you can; but---
As I've said; I've watched people in campgrounds, please note, these are old geasers like myself and you reach an age where things just get harder and harder.
driveing up and dropping the hitch on a ball is much simpler than messing with a trailer. for me anyhow.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:32 AM   #51
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There are 4 ways to tow, but for one of 'em you need to pick both MH and "Towed" very carefully (Thread name "Why tow when you can Stow" The motor home physically carries the car toy hauler style or in a special slide out basement compartment, don't even think of asking the price tag (I was afraid to look, multiple commas scare me)

The 3 main ways are

Flat 4
Dolly
Full trailer (Open or enclosed your choice)

From the viewpoint of the car the last (Enclosed trailer) is best
From the viewpoint of the motor home, the worst.

Flat 4 means you have less to tow, and if you have a supplemental brake system on the car you have all wheel braking, this means your skid distance in a panic stop is.. Not much different than the car by itself (If you don't have supplemental brakeing then your skid distance goes way up, as does your libility if you rear end me)

It is the easiest to hook up and unhook no storage and the additional wear and tear, depending on the tow-enabling method you use, is not that great. Yes, there is some wear on the suspension, but this happens on a trailer too. and the brakes, but the trailer has brakes too and on the balance sheet, 6 v/s 1/2 dozen

However the tow-enable method is important

For example... On my 1992 Lumina I use an Axle lock, this means that of the 4 tires

Back tires turn free (the normal operation for a Front Wheel Drive car)

The right front turns free

The left front turns the differential, only,

The transmission (Which is where the major wear happens) is in PARK, no wear at all.

Of course. this is the option I choose, you can't always use this method.
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:42 PM   #52
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I have flat towed for many years without an aux braking system. Worked OK for me. I am into more hard-core Jeeping and felt that I needed to be able to trailer my Jeep home after a major OOPS I then bought a flat-bed trailer, with brakes. Nice. There were times I did not want to deal with the trailer and would flat-tow one of my rigs (CJ or Grand Cherokee). No issues. But I have a diesel pusher with plenty of capacity. I am well within the capabilities of the rig. I have recently purchased another Jeep and will flat-tow this one also. This one I have installed a Gear Vendors set-up. So, guess I go both (or is that three?) ways?

By the way, most state laws on towing are for trailers, not cars. Pretty interesting how what is put on the trailer does not count. And the add-on brake companies do not distinguish this on their sites. Of course they want to sell their device. I think that is not proper advertising.
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