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Old 03-02-2014, 09:25 AM   #1
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Weight Distribution Distributing Trailer Hitch Opinion's

Not sure if this is in the right section but, buying a 27' enclosed car trailer to pull behind the Coach.
HITCH WEIGHT
310# (MT trailer)

AXLES
(2) 5200# TORSION AXLES
BRAKES
ELECTRIC (ALL WHEELS)
G.A.W.R.
10,400#
G.V.W.R
9,990#
CURB WEIGHT
4,500#
There are so many different types of weight disturbing hitches for sale, what is the best, or maybe not the best, just what will work and what do I need to buy and install. I am pulling this trailer behind a 2000 Newmar Mountain Aire, 350 ISC, 3060 Allison(Already did all the math and called Newmar & Spartan, good to go up to 10,000# GTWR). How did you select which one you bought and use? Do I even need to use this type of weight distributing hitch? What are other's using for their car trailer setup?











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Old 03-02-2014, 10:44 AM   #2
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You'll probably have better luck in the Travel Trailer/Fifth Wheel section of these forums. But since you're pulling it with a motorhome maybe someone will be able to help you. Good Luck!
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:57 AM   #3
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After doing some reading on here, the point has been brought up that with a Coach chassis so long that a distribution system would not do to much as far as transferring the weight. Any thoughts? Maybe one of the Mods. could suggest a better section on here to get better opinion's on this.
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:34 PM   #4
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I would highly recommend the weight distribution and sway control. You can get by without them, but it takes some of the tongue weight off and will improve the ride. The sway control won't be needed very often, but if you aren't prepared for when you will suddenly need sway control, then you will appreciate it even more.

I do not recall which brand I have, I have had two over the years, first time in 1994 with a 30' travel trailer, and now pulling my 24' enclosed trailer. This may not be my exact brand, but it is very similar set up.

CURT Manufacturing - CURT Round Bar Weight Distribution Hitch #17002 | CURT Manufacturing

Big thing is they are rated for tongue weight and gross weight, PPL also has one that looks similar, Trailer hitch - EAZ-LIFT Weight Distribution Hitches on Sale - PPL Motor Homes

I am pretty sure eaz lift is the brand I have?

If you have a good truck trailer and hitch dealer near you or a good RV dealer that sells towables they should be able to assist you.

For a few hundred dollars, I wouldn't skimp on the hitch components as that is the inexpensive part of the equation for what you will have at risk with the trailer and its contents.

Which brand trailer did you go with? Good Luck!
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:30 AM   #5
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The Curt is what I have and it seems to work well but I have only used it once, about 900 miles total. I have a 24 foot enclosed car carrier.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:43 AM   #6
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Looking and studying stage right now...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
I would highly recommend the weight distribution and sway control. You can get by without them, but it takes some of the tongue weight off and will improve the ride. The sway control won't be needed very often, but if you aren't prepared for when you will suddenly need sway control, then you will appreciate it even more.

I do not recall which brand I have, I have had two over the years, first time in 1994 with a 30' travel trailer, and now pulling my 24' enclosed trailer. This may not be my exact brand, but it is very similar set up.

CURT Manufacturing - CURT Round Bar Weight Distribution Hitch #17002 | CURT Manufacturing

Big thing is they are rated for tongue weight and gross weight, PPL also has one that looks similar, Trailer hitch - EAZ-LIFT Weight Distribution Hitches on Sale - PPL Motor Homes

I am pretty sure eaz lift is the brand I have?

If you have a good truck trailer and hitch dealer near you or a good RV dealer that sells towables they should be able to assist you.

For a few hundred dollars, I wouldn't skimp on the hitch components as that is the inexpensive part of the equation for what you will have at risk with the trailer and its contents.

Which brand trailer did you go with? Good Luck!
This is the trailer I have been looking at, v-nose door on curb side.....
Any thoughts or opinion's on this manufacture? http://www.middleburytrailers.com/
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
This is the trailer I have been looking at, v-nose door on curb side.....
Any thoughts or opinion's on this manufacture? http://www.middleburytrailers.com/
I don't have any knowledge of Middlebury, but a few questions. How do you intend to use the trailer? I preferred a side ramp door not in the 'v' so I could load my Harley without having to jackknife the motorhome in my spot to load, with the ramp door in the 'v' your door may not clear the back corner of your coach otherwise. I prefer my side ramp door on curb side, I can unload on my rv spot or in my driveway at home without blocking up the street with the side door on curb side.

What type of vehicle do you intend hauling? I had the rear ramp upgraded to handle the almost 6k lbs of my Escalade ESV.

The escape door I very seldom use, the Saab or my other low profile vehicle, the door hits on the bottom of the frame, so the escape door is useless. Opposite problem with the Escalade. The lower profile vehicle I put a little off center to be able to get out the door easily. The Escalade I go out the rear hatch, much easier for me.

I also added 1' of height to allow Escalade clearance through rear door. I insulated the walls/ceiling, had it braced and prewired for roof air/heat with 30 amp service, extra lights both 12 volt and 110, wished the 12 volt worked without the parking lights of the coach being on, but I will address this issue.

3 lengths of 'E' track full length of trailer, 10 'd' rings, in floor spare tire compartment (some vehicles I put in trailer are too long and the spare compartment is covered up) are some of the the options I would think about for how you intend to use it? I preferred the custom build to have it exactly the way I wanted it.

I like that you have torsion axles, I really went back and forth on that but both of my trailers have had torsion, I would make sure you have the upgraded load range radial tires and heavy duty brakes.

According to my owners manual a weight distribution hitch is acceptable, but it was a very good point to check on your chassis mfg.

Good luck on your decision making!
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
This is the trailer I have been looking at, v-nose door on curb side.....
Any thoughts or opinion's on this manufacture? Middlebury Trailers
For whatever reason I can't get their website to launch either from from your link or google? I will try again later to see about their construction methods.
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Old 03-08-2014, 12:30 PM   #9
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Good thought's !

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeryan59 View Post
I don't have any knowledge of Middlebury, but a few questions. How do you intend to use the trailer? I preferred a side ramp door not in the 'v' so I could load my Harley without having to jackknife the motorhome in my spot to load, with the ramp door in the 'v' your door may not clear the back corner of your coach otherwise. I prefer my side ramp door on curb side, I can unload on my rv spot or in my driveway at home without blocking up the street with the side door on curb side.

What type of vehicle do you intend hauling? I had the rear ramp upgraded to handle the almost 6k lbs of my Escalade ESV.

The escape door I very seldom use, the Saab or my other low profile vehicle, the door hits on the bottom of the frame, so the escape door is useless. Opposite problem with the Escalade. The lower profile vehicle I put a little off center to be able to get out the door easily. The Escalade I go out the rear hatch, much easier for me.

I also added 1' of height to allow Escalade clearance through rear door. I insulated the walls/ceiling, had it braced and prewired for roof air/heat with 30 amp service, extra lights both 12 volt and 110, wished the 12 volt worked without the parking lights of the coach being on, but I will address this issue.

3 lengths of 'E' track full length of trailer, 10 'd' rings, in floor spare tire compartment (some vehicles I put in trailer are too long and the spare compartment is covered up) are some of the the options I would think about for how you intend to use it? I preferred the custom build to have it exactly the way I wanted it.

I like that you have torsion axles, I really went back and forth on that but both of my trailers have had torsion, I would make sure you have the upgraded load range radial tires and heavy duty brakes.

According to my owners manual a weight distribution hitch is acceptable, but it was a very good point to check on your chassis mfg.

Good luck on your decision making!
Here is a photo of the front ramp while hooked to a truck, I am going to have to ask about this ramp location and if it is going to work while hooked to my Coach that is 8.5' wide.......Good thought's ....and I thank you for your idea's and thoughts, keep them coming please....
I am also having 6" added to the side walls, brining it to a outside total height of 9' and a rear door opening height of 6' - 9".
Here is a link to the dealers page with a lot more info. Touch of Class Trailers
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Old 03-08-2014, 12:51 PM   #10
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jeryan59 raises a good point about the ramp clearance to the back of your MH. Also, is the V nose just an extension built onto the A frame, or do they use a shallower A frame on a blunt nosed trailer? If so, you may want to get a shallower A frame and a 2' longer trailer with a side door. It may prove to have more useable space with the same overall length (as long as you have turning clearance with the back of your MH) and the blunt nose might be better aerodynamically behind your MH. This is provided that you don't need to tow it a lot with your pickup.
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Old 03-08-2014, 01:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PushedAround View Post
jeryan59 raises a good point about the ramp clearance to the back of your MH. Also, is the V nose just an extension built onto the A frame, or do they use a shallower A frame on a blunt nosed trailer? If so, you may want to get a shallower A frame and a 2' longer trailer with a side door. It may prove to have more useable space with the same overall length (as long as you have turning clearance with the back of your MH) and the blunt nose might be better aerodynamically behind your MH. This is provided that you don't need to tow it a lot with your pickup.
Look under "Frame" here http://www.middleburytrailers.com/files/MSCT_Flyer.pdf
These are custom ordered trailers and after talking to David at TOC Trailers the other day if the front ramp door is going to be a issue with the rear of my Coach, I am sure when they are building the frame a longer 3rd member frame can be built if needed. These trailers are like Newmar and Burger King.......you can have it your way...
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
Here is a photo of the front ramp while hooked to a truck, I am going to have to ask about this ramp location and if it is going to work while hooked to my Coach that is 8.5' wide.......Good thought's ....and I thank you for your idea's and thoughts, keep them coming please....
I am also having 6" added to the side walls, brining it to a outside total height of 9' and a rear door opening height of 6' - 9".
Here is a link to the dealers page with a lot more info. Touch of Class Trailers
After looking at the site and your picture, the ramp door in the 'v' may clear rear corner, but I would definitely want it on the curb side as your utilities etc may be in the way on the street side. I don't know if there is a huge advantage in the 'v' vs on the side? My Harley is too long to fit totally sideways in the trailer, I need to angle slightly so my tailpipes don't hit the ramp door. Another issue is tongue weight, if my Harley is in the nose I usually take a smaller vehicle and leave it more on the tail end to offset the weight in the nose. I then park the Harley's front end on an angle also towards the rear.

I have a Sherline Trailer tongue scale I use to verify my tongue weight.

I have thought about backing the car/Escalade into trailer so engine weight is on rear of the trailer instead of in front of the front axle with the Harley, but I haven't done that yet.

It appears Middlebury is building on 12" OC on floor, I would verify the rear ramp door is that at a minimum. .30 siding is the minimum I would have, after I had the insulation installed on walls/ceilings I eliminated most of the flexing and noise from the flexing in the wind on the trailer. These trailer look very nicely constructed, and the finish looks very good.

I am enclosing a picture of my ramp door so you have an idea, but I don't know that you gain or lose that much room in the 'v' one way or the other?
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:18 PM   #13
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Here are a couple of pictures of my 'v' nose, a little different set up than what you are looking at.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:52 AM   #14
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Very nice John! Love your Coach! You just bought it not to long ago?
I think I remember you posting photo's of it, and I posted in your thread........maybe? Do you have a photo of the tongue of the trailer (hooked up) so I can see your setup?
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