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Old 08-31-2014, 06:32 AM   #15
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I went with the Eze Tow as well and am happy with it so far. First big trip is next week so we'll see how it goes. Watch their video a few times. What I did was watch the video, make notes, and then write down the steps to correctly set up and remove from towing. That way there hopefully will be no hard lessons learned.
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:32 AM   #16
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ONE Lesson you don't want to find out about is going up and over the caddy, I know first hand. It wasn't to much on the Gas pedal but having your left foot wedged under the BREAK PEDAL
Lesson Learned,
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don and Dar View Post
Thanks for all of your input! It wasn't an easy decision but since we're not ready to buy a different car, we ended up buying an Ezetow.

Ok, since we have no idea where to go for at least a couple of months this coming winter, do you have any suggestions? We've been thinking Florida or Texas so far...but where? Do we just pick a place by the way it looks on the internet?

Thanks for being so helpful!!
florida weather to iffy plus lot's of bugs and humidity.if along ocean for a length of time the salt air will rust your unit and also is hard on everthing else in unit.ditto for the coast of texas and inland texas is always windy.
the last 9 years been in mesa az.weather is perfect for winter no wind people are great a lot to see and do and there is water in az. with fishing and cheap golf.i've been in florida and texas so I know what i'm talking about.

the park I\m in is goodlife rv mesa az a 5 star resort,been there for 9 winters,we are from Winnipeg Canada
you won't be sorry
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:49 PM   #18
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After over 3 years with our EZE-Tow, I believe the biggest point to check is strap tightness. Check/tighten the straps after a few left and right turns following loading.

It is not a real issue now that we are much more accustomed to getting the car straight and centered, but when we and the straps were new, we were able to get a little bit more tension on re-check.

Acme also recommends checking the straps for proper placement and tightness throughout a trip. It is as simple as walking back to the toad whenever you make a stop and kick the straps - checking for slack. I always kick the tires too to check the tire pressure.

We have never driven over the top of the dolly (knock wood), and can see how it could happen. So, we "two foot" the gas and brake when loading, to reduce the risk of a foot slip.

Safe travels
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:44 PM   #19
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We have more questions.

First and foremost, thank you for the ideas and help you've given us.

Don wants to know if it's necessary to have the car lights connected to the motor-home while towing the car.

Another question is, do most RV sites have full hookups? Is there a reference book that can tell us where RV sites are so we can plan in advance where we'll be spending the nights as we travel?

Thanks very much!!!
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:19 PM   #20
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I understand that the dolly's lights (connected to the RV) meet 50 state and Canada requirements for day-time use (turn and brake signals).

At night, many states require some sort of "marker light" to be within a certain distance from the back corners of the car. Easy fix...just turn on the car's parking lights if/when driving at night. It's safer too.

Our car can run the parking lights for many hours with little battery draw, so we have never connected the car's battery to the RV...but it can be done.

About campgrounds...not all have "full" hook-ups (elec, water & sewer).
Some will not have on-space sewer - many will have on-space water - and most will have on-space electric (15-50Amp as requested).
It is good to ask when calling ahead for availability, and surely upon check-in to ensure you get what you want.

Safe travels
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:29 AM   #21
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We have the car lights work along with the KarKaddySS lights (the lights came with Leds on the SS), all except for the head lights. We think it looks good and they have saved us from getting the toad side swiped from cars cutting in behind the MH @ night.
It requires a Diode. We installed it in the trunk and ran the wires under the carpet up too the firewall, thru the firewall up too the grill. So all we have too do is hook them up and go. Of course everything else has to be done also. We plan on adding more lights in the future.
I used to drive a 18 wheeler and some of those guys have so many lights that they have to add a extra generator/alternator. With Leds nowadays maybe that isn't the case anymore.
I'll have too take some pictures next time we hook up.
JM2cents, Tim
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:51 PM   #22
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Another question is, do most RV sites have full hookups? Is there a reference book that can tell us where RV sites are so we can plan in advance where we'll be spending the nights as we travel?
Welcome to iRV2.com!

We primarily use 2 resources: the Good Sam RV Travel Guide and Campground Directory (the big book is available for purchase online, and probably also at Camping World stores) to locate campground candidates, and the Web site rvparkreviews.com to get some more info about them.
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:55 PM   #23
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HELP!!!

We'll be towing a Chevy Cruze. We've been told by Acme eze tow the transmission must be in neutral. In neutral the ignition key is in the ON position, therefore is draining the battery.
Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:06 PM   #24
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HELP!!!

We'll be towing a Chevy Cruze. We've been told by Acme eze tow the transmission must be in neutral. In neutral the ignition key is in the ON position, therefore is draining the battery.
Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
Why does it have to be in neutral? Is it so the car wheels can move and allow the car to make turns? You should have a dolly with a pivot plate. If you want to leave it in neutral and have to have the ignition on, you probably can pull a fuse. Check with Chevy as to which one. You could perhaps also pull the negative cable off the battery, or install a charge wire from the RV to the toad.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:20 PM   #25
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Run a charge wire from the MH through a diode. My experience charge currents run about 10 amps so a diode along those lines would work. If you don't use a diode the voltage from the toad will feed back into the MH when the MH ignition is off.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:59 PM   #26
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Run a charge wire from the MH through a diode. My experience charge currents run about 10 amps so a diode along those lines would work. If you don't use a diode the voltage from the toad will feed back into the MH when the MH ignition is off.
If you're talking chassis batteries, the two batteries at the same charge level will not cause feedback. Rather than a diode, I use auto resetting circuit breakers. If the differential between the two batteries gets too great, the CB will trip. Only time it would happen would perhaps be when starting the RV.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:53 PM   #27
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If you're talking chassis batteries, the two batteries at the same charge level will not cause feedback. Rather than a diode, I use auto resetting circuit breakers. If the differential between the two batteries gets too great, the CB will trip. Only time it would happen would perhaps be when starting the RV.
When you turn off ignition in MH toad battery will be on opposit side of switch. it will feed back and drain your toad battery. Has nothing to do with any reset
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Old 09-15-2014, 08:24 PM   #28
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Only if you wire it through the ignition, a circuit already often overloaded. Mine is wired directly from the (+) post of the chassis batteries, which are behind the rear wheels of the RV.
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