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Old 02-25-2012, 03:12 PM   #43
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my brake questions: does installation of a us gear TV-1000k, invisibrake, smi's stay and play, and of the models that permanently install under the hood and connect to you towed vehicle's vacuum line violate the warranty in a new tow car.


I just bought a 2012 Jeep Wrangler 2 door 4wd soft top for towing behind my 30 ft 2009 Winnebago gas RV, and would like a permanent braking solution, but not sure which one is the best to use. Your thoughts.

Neil
Neil--your best bet is to call Jeep and ask them. (I just did this last week for the ReadyBrute system and a CoolTech wiring harness for our 2012 Wrangler.) I didn't want to putz with the new car warranty.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:20 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by sellhomz View Post
my brake questions: does installation of a us gear TV-1000k, invisibrake, smi's stay and play, and of the models that permanently install under the hood and connect to you towed vehicle's vacuum line violate the warranty in a new tow car.
Short answer is no. There's some Federal law, I forget the name, that says that modifying a vehicle cannot void the warranty unless the modifications cause the malfunction.

Ah. It's the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Keeping Your Mod's Warranty Intact - For Dummies

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Old 02-25-2012, 03:56 PM   #45
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If you do NOT already have a tow bar the Ready brute with Ready Brake beats all others for "Economy" also it beats all others for simplicity and I do believe in KISS (keep it super simple) There is basically nothing that can go wrong with it safe for rust in the cable. (And that would not be a problem for full timers) Do follow instructions as to testing and lubrication.

If you already have a tow bar most systems are in the same price range.

I went with the US-Gear on my towed, It is simply the best in terms of giving the driver control over the towed. Invisible to the driver of the towed (provided you don't wear size 13 gunboats... Like I do) quick and easy to hook up, No temptation to say "The heck with it" But it is one of the most complex systems out there.

Invisible brake is much like the US gear but it does not give the driver as much control.

Both of these do use electricity from the towed's battery, but allow for repleneshment of said electricity by the motor home Both are quick to hook up (Invisible brake is a tad faster, but not much) both invisible to the driver (With exception above) of the towed.

If your tow vehicle has air brakes,, M&G is the hands down winner for invisibility, even if you wear gunboats longer than mine. There is NOTHING, aboslutly NOTHING of this system inside the cockpit on the car.

Air-Force One is also a good system.

Finally we have Brake Master Pro.. this is a "Crossover" system, it uses MH Air (Either from the brake system of a DP or from an optional electric compressor on a gasser, note this applies to the other two air-brake systems as well) but it uses a pedal pusher that has to be attached,,, however the pusher stows under the driver's seat so it's fairly quick to attach.. Still, I like the other two systems better.

And that covers the major players.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:29 PM   #46
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And that covers the major players.
Very nicely, but for one additional bit of complexity--what is the activation method? Is the system truly proportional to the braking force of the coach, or is it on a switch or a time delay that applies what you hope is an appropriate amount of braking force to the toad relative to the coach. Some use pendulum (old school?) or accelerometer sensing of the coach braking to control the toad braking force. A bit complex but fine for use when properly set up.
One of the new systems (Roadmaster?) appears to use a time delay. More time = more braking force. I had two types of brake controllers when I was trailer towing. I used the time delay one twice and gave it away. I got and kept the inertial unit with a pendulum. Much smoother proportional braking on the trailer.
It's nice to have so many choices. Every commercial brake system available has its merits and plenty of acceptance. Given the product liability laws, none had better be a dud.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:01 AM   #47
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Great information! Thanks to everyoine.

It looks like I am down to either the SMI stay and play duo, which needs both the brake lights of the RV and a decleration sensor mounted in the towed vehicle to activte the brake and is progressive and proportionate vacuum assisted system. A small air cylnder is attached to and activates the brake pedal. Nothing is needed in the RV, and notice of applying brake is from a light in the towed vehicle on the rear view mirror visable from the rear camera monitor in the RV.

Or the US Gears D-celerator Unified tow brake, which uses the wiring harness in the RV dash to connect the controller and deceleration sensor mounted in the RV, but has a larger solenoid than SMI that needs to be under the deiver seat or under dash to acivate the break pedal. This is both progressive and proportionate. Is this harder to install than the SMI. I have a good friend that is mechanical and into RVs that I will do the installiation with, and am looking for the best working and easiest install of these two, so if anyone had installed either of these let me know. The purchase price is almost the same.

Thanks again.

Neil
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:48 PM   #48
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I have a big RV, and a small tow vehicle. I can't physically install it, so I need it installed. I don't want to hook and unhook stuff up inside the car every time. I just want it to hook up awt the hitch and forget it. Is there any such thing?
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:59 PM   #49
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I believe that most states require that you have supplemental braking for towing a vehicle. Further, it is a great comfort of mind to know that with a quality, supplemental braking system that you can stop a large Class A motorhome with a car in tow, in a shorter distance than with only using the brakes of your RV.
Actually it's just the opposite: very few states require supplemental braking on a motorized vehicle being towed. BUT you must comply with any/all state's laws that you travel through.
The charts you see published all over the internet purporting to show when brakes are required are almost always for trailers and have no bearing on a motorized vehicle pulling another motorized vehicle.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:05 PM   #50
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I have a big RV, and a small tow vehicle. I can't physically install it, so I need it installed. I don't want to hook and unhook stuff up inside the car every time. I just want it to hook up awt the hitch and forget it. Is there any such thing?
Sure, lots of them. I'm partial to the SMI Air Force One system, if you have a DP with air brakes. If not, there are others.

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Old 02-27-2012, 01:06 PM   #51
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I have a big RV, and a small tow vehicle. I can't physically install it, so I need it installed. I don't want to hook and unhook stuff up inside the car every time. I just want it to hook up awt the hitch and forget it. Is there any such thing?
both of the systems I mentiones SMI and US gears only require two cables which are quickly connected, 1.the connector plug from the RV 7 prong to the towed vehicle 6 prong on bumper. and 2. the safety cable to the breakaway emergency Brake actuator on the towed bumper. once these systems are installed in the towed auto it is very easy to connect and disconnect.

Neil
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:45 PM   #52
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Actually it's just the opposite: very few states require supplemental braking on a motorized vehicle being towed. BUT you must comply with any/all state's laws that you travel through.
The charts you see published all over the internet purporting to show when brakes are required are almost always for trailers and have no bearing on a motorized vehicle pulling another motorized vehicle.
I agree with your interpretation of the towing laws. I checked w/ NYS DMV and pretty much got the 'trailer' requirements read back to me.

Physics dictate that it takes longer to stop a motorhome with a 2K-3K+lbs towed behind it.

Common sense suggests your far safer with toad brakes than without.

I wouldn't want to test the laws in front of a jury who could find you negligent for causing an accident because you couldn't stop fast enough.

I have toad brakes on my rig.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:36 AM   #53
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Just a quick look at that site shows that the chart is totally wrong for WA and OR, they did get CA correct though. WA is the same as CA and OR is even stiffer in the stopping distance. That chart is probably the most accurate out there even though it's still wrong!
I do not trust those charts either. Many sates have laws that say "A car towed 4 down" or words to that effect.

Many do not, but in most all states they have a law that says "Trailers over xxxx pounds". The states that do now have a "Car" law, usually define a car, towed 4 down, as a trailer.. Michigan is such a state.


And given the fact the US Gear says it can make up to a 30 percent difference in your stopping distance towing without brakes is just plain reckless.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:05 AM   #54
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I tow a jeep wrangler one of the lightest and easiest toads. I put the simi stay and play all self contained ( in the toad) braking system. Used it with my gas vista till I just got a do. And I liked having it help slow down as I put only brakes going down the mountains or the flat roads. Just knowing if there is ever an accident. I will not be looked at as contributing to the cause by not having it. Costs about $900 and just a few hours to install yourself or with a handy friend. Well worth the money and effort for the insurance
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:30 AM   #55
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TOWING REGULATIONS

The best reference that I have found with respect to the 50 states is:

home.roadrunner.com/~morodat/toad-brakes-by-state.html

(copy the above and paste into your browser)


and for Canada http://www.rvda.ca/ProvBrakeReqts.asp
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