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Old 02-27-2013, 09:04 PM   #15
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We use a Brakemaster made by Roadmaster. Very satisfied with it and switch it between two toed cars.
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifftall View Post
Cool. The SMI requires a flip of a toggle switch , period.
Cliff

My switch is on all the time even when not towing. Mine gets its power from the MH. I have the 4 wire stay-n-play setup. Box sets under the back seat.
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:25 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Clifftall View Post
Cool. The SMI requires a flip of a toggle switch , period.
Cliff
Cliff, does the SMI hook into the coach's air system?
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:29 PM   #18
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No , for the Stay N Play Duo for gas coaches. The Air Force One for DPs does.
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:37 PM   #19
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No , for the Stay N Play Duo for gas coaches. The Air Force One for DPs does.
Cliff
Does anybody out there have any experience with "The Air Force One" brake? I assume (bad word) that it would work something like the M&G? I like "The flip of a switch method Cliff described!!
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:50 PM   #20
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Take a look at their website which has an install video as well.
http://www.smibrake.com/air-force-one.html
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:38 PM   #21
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I have had my Brake Buddy for 12 years, and I love it.
Used it in a small Saturn, and now my 2012 Wrangler. Fits perfectly. No power drain either. 30 seconds to install.
Just sayin....
Seems Campdaven may stand alone, and may be the only one that can properly answer my question. I have the absolutely best system every made and installed in a toad. Yep thats right A Free One! I contacted the originial owner of my coach that I purchased to return some placards that were personal and left on ladder and was given Free a brake buddy. Now I'm trying to learn how to use it. No instructions. My questions, is it normal after hitting the test button and the arm depresses the brake pedal then arm retracts and the box moves away from car seat. I've moved seat full forward. Also the little unit that plugs into MH 12v has a green light but never gives a red light except breafly when i first plug it in. Should the red light come on when the brake is being applied? CampDaven help (or any one else).
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:56 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntnski

I have the absolutely best system every made and installed in a toad. Yep thats right A Free One!
Hey....I'm like you.....I inherited a "brake-in-box" Evenbrake for Free! The thing works great...doesn't 't drain the battery In my toad and "bid deal" it takes a couple on minutes to set-up every so often. Absolutely I would prefer an SMI system, but when I think of the $$$ to change ....no way!

BTW...yes it is normal for the arm to retract to the proper set-up once the test is activated....move the seat to position correctly. Can't help you with your MH remote.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:45 AM   #23
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Thanks Jack, found the instructions under Brake Buddy. Com, must have overlooked them on previous visit to web site.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:25 AM   #24
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I've been using the Ready Brute braking system for about a year now and am very pleased. It's a simple and quick hookup, but a bit challenging to install initially. It doesn't require electrical connections at all, except for the brake warning system light within the coach. No electrical drain on the toad at all.
Readybrake RV Tow Bars and RV Surge Braking Systems for Car Towing - NSA RV Products
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:14 AM   #25
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Brake buddy

A few pointers on the brake buddy,Ive had 1 for 3 years now and had a few hairy exp.First of all you must have it bleed the brakes of vacuum before you drive off.I did not and it cost me 2 new tires,with the vacuum it will lock up the brakes the first time you stop.Mine keeps running the battery down if you dont have a way for the MH to charge the toad while traveling.Took care of most of these problems and still have 1 more to correct.All the hookups were done by the RV center.The remote will handle the braking from inside of your coach.Hope some of this helps.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:47 AM   #26
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Have the brake buddy thing and it takes a couple of minutes to hook up and calibrate as mentioned above. I question it's effectiveness, as I think it is pretty slow to apply the toad brakes no matter how well it is calibrated. My toad only weighs 2,400 pounds and is easy to stop without the brakes. It's legal, and that is a big deal. If I were towing a 5,000 pound SUV, then I would be looking for another system.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:12 AM   #27
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I had new RoadMaster brackets installed on our toad and will be installing brakes next. Are there any opinions on the type of brakes I should install? I have googled this and have came up with two main types. The physical hydraulic type pump that is affixed to the brake peddle and the air type that installs to the brake fluid reservoir. AND what price have you paid to have your brakes installed or (for the do-it-yourselvers) are they easy to install yourself?
I have used both the M&G System and the SMI Air Force One for several years on different coaches and toad vehicles. They are both good systems and operate reliably. Currently I have the SMI system because M&G doesn't offer their system on my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Go to the M&G website to see if they have one to fit your toad.

My personal preferance is the M&G system because it is a simpler system to install on the coach and doesn't require a cable attachment on the toad's brake pedal. Again, both systems are reliable and simple to use once installed.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:21 AM   #28
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It is probably not the brake that is killing the battery. The brake itself uses very little power but when the car is in neutral it (car) still has power on some systems. Some cars have a fuse you can pull to kill the power to the vehicle that the brake is not using. I for example have three fuses (I have toggle switches on them) that are turned off. Some owners manuals identify the fuse.
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