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Old 03-25-2011, 07:12 AM   #15
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First let me explain exactly what the issue was with mine.
Like so many others I had a tire that was showing rapid wear on the outside, My issue was only occurring on the curb side tire, so I had a good side to use as a reference.

Step 1) I jacked up the dolly on both sides and placed on blocks, removed tires, I then installed two empty rims I was lucky to have around.
Step 2) I took two 4 foot levels and attached them to the rims using small bar clamps.
Step 3) I took measurements between levels, Horizontal then vertical, in the vertical position I found the measurement was 1 1/4 shorter on the bottom. And vise versa on top.
Step 4) using a right angle grinder and sawzall I cut three sides of the mounting block. (See picture)
Step 5) Using a come along I pulled the top of the block toward the road side tire.
Step 6) after rotating the levels to several different positions and checking my measurements I welded it all back, Released the come along to insure it held, It did.

OK, I know my weld bead is ugly but I get good penetration with a 60k rod.
So no making fun of it!
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:42 AM   #16
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I have a toad with low clearance, and the tow dolly advertise on this site at Tow Dolly / Car Tow Dolly / Car Dolly / Master / Tow Dollies works for me. I think it is a good design. The tires are impressive - much better than the ones on my car. Surge brakes are 'automatic' - no thought required. I have only been east of the Mississippi with it (so far).
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:20 PM   #17
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I recenlty bought a American Car Dolly American Car Dolly

I didn't want the hassle of wiring a brake controller so I bought with the EZ Controller. It is a break controller that is mounted on the tow dolly itself. I bought this one because we were towing a new beetle that sits really low, I mean really low. This one sits on the dolly perfectly and tows great. It is one of the cheapest too.
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:50 AM   #18
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Mafiaman,
I'm in Snellville and am looking for a dolly as I write. Is the swivel function worth it or too much trouble w/moving parts etc? I'm looking to tow a new Prius and have already looked at a Stehl but the tilting ramps allow the front air dam to drag. I would have to add length to lessen the angle to allow proper loading. Did you find your dolly here locally?
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarnold View Post
Mafiaman,
I'm in Snellville and am looking for a dolly as I write. Is the swivel function worth it or too much trouble w/moving parts etc? I'm looking to tow a new Prius and have already looked at a Stehl but the tilting ramps allow the front air dam to drag. I would have to add length to lessen the angle to allow proper loading. Did you find your dolly here locally?
i have a stehl tow dolly and use 3' and 3'6'' 2x6 planks under the dolly ramps to keep my nissan altima from dragging the air dam when loading and unloading. unequal lengths help keep them from getting spit out when loading. i routed a slot in the top of the planks near the end for the ramps to grab onto. i cut the other end to 45 degrees.
if you are going to buy any dolly, i recommend that you use a tape measure and check the toe alignment before buying it. my new stehl dolly had 3/4'' toe out. i didn't use the dolly for a year and a half so i ended up paying to have the alignment done and it cost me 2 sets of tires too.
the swivel function works well for me.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:40 AM   #20
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toe end checking

Dan L, How do you go about checking the toe end? I read the post from Mafiaman above but keep getting lost on his measurements. Do all new Steil dollies swivel?
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Old 04-24-2011, 01:34 PM   #21
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Dan L, How do you go about checking the toe end? I read the post from Mafiaman above but keep getting lost on his measurements. Do all new Steil dollies swivel?
i use a long tape measure and measure from a point on the front of the tires, then measure to a point on the rear of the tires. subtracting the measurements will yield a toe in or toe out indication.
if the tread on the tire is not straight enough to get a good measurement, i jack the wheel and spin the tire and scribe a mark with a pencil. ideally, you are looking for 0 to 1/8'' toe in.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarnold View Post
Mafiaman,
I'm in Snellville and am looking for a dolly as I write. Is the swivel function worth it or too much trouble w/moving parts etc? I'm looking to tow a new Prius and have already looked at a Stehl but the tilting ramps allow the front air dam to drag. I would have to add length to lessen the angle to allow proper loading. Did you find your dolly here locally?
Found mine on Craigslist, I am close to Rosebud and Temple Johnson if you'd like to see first hand what to look out for.
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:01 PM   #23
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Get a Roadmaster 2000-1 Tow Dolly

HI,

I am the owneer of a Roadmaster tow Dolly with wlectric brakes and love it. It has steerable wheels which follow the motorhomes rear wheels. I towed a Honda Civic all the way to Alaska and back , 11,361 miles and not one problem. True you must install a brake controller in the RV but no big deal nor expense. I now tow a 2011 Ford Escape with ease.
Loading and unloading is a piece of cake as ramps are easy to climb and there is a deep well for the front tires too. Once car is on tow dolly, you put tuire straops on, connect safety chains and away you go.
As for easiness in CG I usually ask for a pull through site and leave dolly connected to RV but disconnect railer plug so as not to drain RV battery. If i have to back in then I have added a third wheel to the dolly and can unhook it from RV and push it where I want it. THere is also a pin in it which makes it behave like a trailer.
Get the Roadmaster 2000-1 trailer w/electric brakes, install a third wheel and a spare tire and away you go.

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Old 04-27-2011, 03:15 PM   #24
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I have a MasterTow Dolly 80THD (electric brakes). Nice and wide. Only problem was loading/unloading vehicle with low front cowling would catch on swivel tray. Easy fix. Cut 2 x 6 planks to go under ramps for loading/unloading. They reduce the angle of the tray and the low cowling vehicle clears the tray. If vehicle doesn't have low front cowling then no problem. I store it in my garage when not traveling. Good luck.
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:41 PM   #25
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Thanks all. I'm still looking for a good used one but hard to find. The Sthel web site has an extension that is very pricy so it looks like most just use 2x6's that seem to work out OK. I just missed a great deal on ebay last night, with just 5 seconds left, I had a winning bid keyed in but two others got in ahead of me before I could change my bid.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:02 PM   #26
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I would really recommend looking at American Car Dolly as I have been very happy with it and it seems to be made much better than others I have seen and it will fit a very low car without rubbing on the air dam. I tow a new beetle and we put a lowered corvette z06 on it the other night. The good thing is the ramps are removed once loaded and mount on the front. No need to wire a brake controller with their patented ez brake setup.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:41 AM   #27
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Hi all, Dave here. I went to the factory and purchased a NEW Stehl Tow dolly in June of 2010. I got such a good deal from them, I got 2 of them for $700 each and they loaded them one on top of the other, and secured the spare tires to them and I was on my way quickly. I did have a beef with the lights on them, as you have to purchase the entire assembly rather than replacing simply the bulbs. I soon changed out the light assemblies with replaceable bulb units. I tow about 10,000 miles a year and I am on my third set of tires. I keep them at 50 psi and mine seem to wear out the sides of the tread and the center is pretty decent. I was also told by numerous experts at the race track ( We work for an ARCA race team) and they said that no matter what the brand, this would happen. The dolly will have an ever-so-slight side to side movement and this is what wears out the outer tread while leaving the center relatively untouched. Most places want to sell you the wheel and tire assembly together but I prefer to simply change the tires. I was lucky enough to find "Hi Run" brand at Daytona a couple of years ago for $55 out the door. I carried them around for about a year before I finally mounted and balanced them and have had no issues whatsoever. I also got on Ebay a spare set of tiedown straps and have yet to use them.
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