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Old 02-21-2015, 08:02 PM   #15
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Posts: 323
We use a Blue Ox Patriot brake system. It works very well for us. We tow an 09 Ford Explorer. Takes about 3 minutes to install each time and about a minute to remove.

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Old 02-21-2015, 08:27 PM   #16
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Rural Independence, OR
Posts: 951
Another Blue Ox Patriot. Works.

2013 Leisure Travel Vans Unity U24MB, 635 watts solar, 440 AH batteries, 2000 watt inverter, Koni struts and shocks, Hellwig rear anti-swaybar, SumoSprings front and back, 2012 Hyundai Accent SE, Blue Ox baseplates, Aladdin towbar and Patriot
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:19 AM   #17
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Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 25
No one has mentioned M&G Engineering. It's a little more complicated to install but oooh so nice to hook up and use. It's completely proportional to the RV's braking, hooks up with 1 air hose. Nothing to put in the tow vehicle each time you want to tow, nothing to block against the seat or push on the brake pedal. IMHO it's the best on the market. No I have nothing to do with the company. Just a RVer like the rest of you but wanted the best system for stopping the car.
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Old 02-22-2015, 11:27 AM   #18
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Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Home in warm Sou Calif for the winter.
Posts: 1,401
Personally, my requirements when I first thought about getting a supplemental braking system, were three fold.

First, i wanted something that I didn't have to hook or unhook whenever i wanted to tow. Second, I wanted something that utilized the toad's vacuum assisted braking system. And third, I wanted something that I, while driving the mh and pulling the toad, had total control of the toad's braking system.

After much deliberation and research on my part, I finally settled on the US Gear Unified Braking System (UBS). Granted, this system was a little more expensive and required more initial installation procedures. However, it was the only system that met all of my criteria.

An additional plus, was that my mh was pre-wired (as are all Freightliner, Roadmaster, Workhorse, and Winnabago chassis) at the factory for this system. All wires (including 12vdc and lights) was provided in a wiring harness that terminated under the mh's dash board and connected to the 7-pin connecter at the rear of the coach.

I have installed this same unit in three different toads and two different motor homes. It fully fulfills all braking requirements for the toad and is invisible. It is totally proportional, adjustable and requires absolutely NO additional connection of ANY type between the mh and toad.

Ok, I'm done and will get off the soap box now.

Ron, Sandie and Lilly
2013 Tiffin Phaeton 42LH 400 ISL | 2011 GMC Terrain SLT-2
Roadmaster All Terrain | US Gear Unified Brake System | Pressure Pro
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Old 02-22-2015, 06:57 PM   #19
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Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Apple Valley CA
Posts: 926
I just Installed the SMI Air Force 1 brake system in my 2010 Chevy Colorado. Install was simple and did it myself. So far I'm very pleased with it. Purchased it from PPL at a great price too.

Here is another system you might consider: M & G Engineering - Car Braking Systems: Home Page

Craig & Carolyn Roberts Apple Valley, CA
2006 Newmar 3910 KSDP 400 ISL Cummins Spartan Mountian Master Chassis
Toad: 2017 GMC Canyon 4X4 Crewcab
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Old 02-23-2015, 05:44 AM   #20
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Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 23,869
The best.. There is no best.. I will explain.

The worst: Boxes that go in the driver's seat and push the pedal.

(This is diferent from the one the prior owner had on his jeep)

There reason there is no "Best" is because there are many that are too close to call.

For example.. Since once I get the motor fixed in this beast I will be towing at least twice a month,, I will go with the Ready Brake, this is a surge brake system.

If I parked the motor home for the winter in the snowy and well salted north I'd not be so keen on the ready brake, the cable can rust and size and cause issues with the towed brakes NOT releasing.

US-Gear Unified Brake Decelerator gives the motor home driver FULL control over the towed brakes, you can adjust the "Gain" (Ratio of towed brakes to motor home brakes, how hard the towed brakes are applied) if you set it to zero you disable the towed brakes, you can engage the towed brakes without touching the motor home pedal if you wish (Did that one time). This is MORE control than a semi driver has over his trailer brakes (he can not adjust gain from the driver's seat).

There are many other good systems.. Air Force One, Invisi brake, Stay and Play, many more too many to list, all are darn good. If it fits on your towed and your motor home has air brakes (sounds like it does) the M&G system is fantastic.

Most all of these are nearly invisible to a driver of the car, with the eception of the M&G (Which is 100% invisible to the driver) and the system the Prior Owner had, all you see is a small bracket on the brake pedal.

As for the pedal pusher he had in his jeep: I give that one a mid rating,, I would suggest you consider it since you are half set up for it already.

The box in the driver's seat that pushes the pedal.. Those are the WORST systems.. I have read of mistakes, which can damage the towed's brakes, And I have read of folks who, for a short trip, admit they said "Oh, I'll just forget it" You have this big device that has to be INSTALLED every time you tow (I know the ad says no installation, it lies, many installations is accurate) and stow when driving the towed.

HOWEVER, if you have a stable of towed cars.. Then this one system can be used in all of 'em so even it has an advantage.

Home is where I park it!
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brake, tow

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