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05-13-2007, 04:47 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 563
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I wouldn't even consider towing without one! I was absolutely shocked at the improvement in braking with my Unified Tow Brake, and I have an Alpine with outstanding brakes and a relatively light '06 Jeep Wrangler towd. The package stops in a shorter distance than does the coach by itself. Do yourself and your family a favor...BUY A BRAKING SYSTEM! Good luck.
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Rick Coleman
'05 Alpine 36MDDS
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05-13-2007, 05:45 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 331
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Rick Coleman:
I wouldn't even consider towing without one! I was absolutely shocked at the improvement in braking with my Unified Tow Brake, and I have an Alpine with outstanding brakes and a relatively light '06 Jeep Wrangler towd. The package stops in a shorter distance than does the coach by itself. Do yourself and your family a favor...BUY A BRAKING SYSTEM! Good luck. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have the same system and I tow an Escape. I agree with Rick 100%
I don't want to convince you to get a particular unit, as they all have pluses and minuses, but, Get A Braking System! (please)
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2012 Newmar Ventana LE 3634, 2017 Ford Flex Limited, K9FZJ since 1958
"Be careful out there, because no matter where you go.......... There you are" (Bucakaroo Banzai)
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05-17-2007, 08:47 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dacula, Georgia
Posts: 318
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RV Roamer:
Your Horizon has air brakes, so a Roadmaster Brakemaster system is relatively inexpensive and easy to install. Your chassis probably has a tap on the rear brakes to add the Brakemaster's air line and putting the car portion in is straight forward if you have basic mechanical skills. That what I use on my Acadia, which is essentially a twin of the Outlook. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I actually purchased the GM Arcadia this week. I am now deciding between the Break Buddy and the Brakemaster system, but leaning more toward Breakmaster. When on Roadmaster's website they estimate installation of 8 hours. Obviously this becomes very expensive if I go through my normal RV service person. In your post you relate that you did this yourself and it was fairly simple. Were the instruction fairly straitforward? I am a fairly expereienced "do it yourselfer", but have not had the motorhome long and not familure with the workings of the air brake system. What are your thoughts?
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2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD
300 HP Cat Diesel
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05-17-2007, 09:18 AM
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#18
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GaDawgFan:
I am a fairly expereienced "do it yourselfer", but have not had the motorhome long and not familure with the workings of the air brake system. What are your thoughts? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>In that case I would suggest that you consider the latest in auxilliary brake system technology the SMI Air Force One!
Available from our primary sponsor RV-Upgrades, The Air Force One is very competitively priced.
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03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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05-17-2007, 12:24 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,253
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I can only ditto the recommendation of DriVer (and many others on this site) about getting an SMI Air-Force One system.
I spent (actually "Invested") quite a bit of time researching the various choices out there and chose the AF-One. And had the pleasure of talking at length recently with Peter (President of SMI) about their evolution, products, and experiences. A fascinating time, well worth it. And so is the AF-One - no problems and completely satisfied.
As far as "why you should get a braking system", the answer is simple.... I AM OUT THERE TOO, AND I WANT YOU TO BE ABLE TO STOP WHEN I DO!
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'06 HR Endeavor 40PAQ (Mission Hills decor). All options, but still finding more to add.
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05-17-2007, 06:21 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dacula, Georgia
Posts: 318
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ronboc:
As far as "why you should get a braking system", the answer is simple.... I AM OUT THERE TOO, AND I WANT YOU TO BE ABLE TO STOP WHEN I DO! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I appreciate your input, but my original post never asked "why I should get a braking system" but "when do I need to add a braking system". I understand full well why I need a braking system now that I am going to a heavier toad. I was trying to learn if there was a certain toad weight where brakes have to be added. I now realize that there is no hard and fast answer to the question as each state varies and very few are specific between trailers and towed automobiles. You can rest easy when you have to stop, I will have brakes on my toad, I just have to decide which option to go with.
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2000 Itasca Horizon 36LD
300 HP Cat Diesel
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05-18-2007, 02:08 AM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Dundee Mi.
Posts: 51
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I would say the time to get a braking system is the first time you tow. Many say that states have set the rules, but I don't believe that. The rules are too vague. I do know that most have a weight limit for trailers. Now tell me how long would it take for a sharp lawyer to equate a trailer to a toad? I have been using a M&G sustem for about 14 years. This is my second motorhome and third Ford Explorer. I really like the system. Their site is
www.m-gengineering.com My concern is that you have a system for my safety and yours. Here in Michigan the law is 1500 lbs for a trailer to need brakes.
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Gerald Wessel
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05-18-2007, 11:31 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,063
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GaDawgFan:
I am currently towing a 2002 Saturn L-200 with no braking system. I have had no problems. We are now considering trading (or selling)this car and purchasing a 2007 Saturn Outlook. The weight of the Outlook is just under 5000 pounds. At what weight do I need to consider adding the additional braking system?
Thanks as always for the input! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
At your current weight you already should have a toad brake. It is too late after a mishap occures. Better to be "Safe" than that other thing.
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Neil V
2001 Winnebago Adventurer WFG35U
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06-14-2007, 08:30 AM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 65
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Is there a brake system out there that works without power from the toad? I have just run into a problem with my Saturn Outlook. They have changed the directions for setting the car up to be towed from pulling a fuse to disconnecting the negative lead from the car battery. This leaves no power source for a brake control system. Anyone else having this problem?
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Chris & Carri
07 Four Winds Hurricane 34B
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06-21-2007, 07:28 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 328
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To weight in to this discussion on the other side, you NEED a braking system when your toad and MH weight totalexceed your GVW. This is different than a system to stop your toad on breakaway. You SHOULD have a braking system if you are concerned in any way about your ability to stop with the brakes on your MH only. My toad and MH total 20500. My chassis has a 22000 GVW. My brakes are sufficient for the load legally.
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2005 30' Rexhall Vision, W-22 chassis, 19.5 tires, 208'' factory WB, 6000 CCC
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