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Old 03-29-2017, 08:10 PM   #15
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If you had the transmission in neutral when you pushed it the transfer case could have ben engaged and you still would have been able to push it. If you pushed it with the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in gear that would verify transfer case in neutral.

Pushing with transfer case in neutral and transmission in neutral verifies nothing. Your description of the steps you took in the first post seem to indicate this is what you did.


" I first put the transfer case in Neutral position. I then pushed it forward and backwards about 4-5'. I then hooked the tow bar to our Beaver coach. I then shifted the transmission into 1st gear and turn the ignition to the first on position. We took off and drove about a mile at speeds up to about 45 mph."
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Old 04-01-2017, 03:39 PM   #16
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If the insurance company is totaling the jeep I would suggest to see what you can buy it for. Put it on Craigslist outright and make a few bucks or get it repaired and drive it or sell it. Retitle with a salvage title. Broken Jeep's are opportunities to a lot of folks out there. IMHO.

BTW, many states you can get money for sales tax and/or tag fees in addition to the value of the vehicle. Does not hurt to ask. Also, compare the book value to the actual street value in your area - you might find the book value will be less money.
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2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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Old 04-01-2017, 03:47 PM   #17
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On our 2007 Jeep Liberty Limited, 4wd, I put TX case in neutral, then transmission in PARK, ignition switch to #2 position (no dash lights on). If trans was in anything other than PARK, then bad things will happen. TX case in N, then trans in PARK, per owners manual. It can be a bit tricky to get the TX case in N, but other than that, no biggie.
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Old 04-01-2017, 04:10 PM   #18
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what kind of hook up did you have at the bumper? did you have a baseplate or direct to the bumber ?? just asking iam getting ready to hook my 1999 same model up to tow.
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Old 04-01-2017, 04:33 PM   #19
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Its a Roadmaster baseplate. The baseplate you will never see, unless you roll under the car. The setup includes 3 pieces of hardware; two removable 'brackets' (or arms) and one crossarm which mounts between the arms . The arms, one on the pass side and one on the drivers side, slip into a receiver hole (or socket) on the car mounted bracket. The arms insert and lock with a 1/4 turn or twist. Once both arms are mounted, the cross arm slips into the arms and locks with hitch pins. You then attach safety cables, the two arms from the towbar, break away cable, safety chains (cables) and finally the brake air line and tow lights hook ups. It takes longer to write about it than to do it. The thing I like is that when you are not towing, you remove the crossbar and arms and you can't see any part of the hitch setup. Very clean. With a little practice, you can do it in your sleep! The Air Force One brake stays mounted in the Jeep and you can't see it-it just works along with your coach air brakes.
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Old 04-01-2017, 04:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moaljo View Post
what kind of hook up did you have at the bumper? did you have a baseplate or direct to the bumber ?? just asking iam getting ready to hook my 1999 same model up to tow.
Either way, the connection methodology would have nothing to do with throwing a rod in the engine..
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2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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