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03-31-2017, 08:08 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Cedar Creek, Tx
Posts: 96
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Wrangler toad issue
We have a 2016 Wrangler, automatic that we pull behind our Bounder. It is a wrestling match to get it back in "gear" when we arrive at our destination. We have left it attached, pulled the pins and let it roll free. I usually end up either pushing it forward or backward and she eventually gets the differential from neutral back into 2wd and then the transmission back into park. We follow the Jeep instructions to the letter. We have no trouble hooking up, just unhooking. Any tips?
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03-31-2017, 09:03 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickfarm
We have a 2016 Wrangler, automatic that we pull behind our Bounder. It is a wrestling match to get it back in "gear" when we arrive at our destination. We have left it attached, pulled the pins and let it roll free. I usually end up either pushing it forward or backward and she eventually gets the differential from neutral back into 2wd and then the transmission back into park. We follow the Jeep instructions to the letter. We have no trouble hooking up, just unhooking. Any tips?
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tickfarm,
What you're experiencing is quite normal. Many folks that tow Jeeps, especially the later model JKs, have transfer case (not "differential) STIFF SHIFTING issues. The cure for this is to do it more often. You see, the shifting mechanism is a linkage type of arrangment. And, the gears inside that transfer case have no SYNCRO ring to aid in gear meshing like there is in normal stick transmissions. So, both of those are working against you when you're trying to shift. A DIRECT shifter is one where the shift handle goes directly into the trans. That's a way more positive shifting mechanism. The linkage types have tendency to flex which, does not allow for positive shifting. But, the more you use it, the better it gets and wears-in.
The more you use that T/C shifter, the easier it gets. You start to WEAR-IN the mechanism which, makes shifting quite a bit easier. We've owned 9 different Jeeps and, many of them have been very close to brand new when we bought them. Each of those, were very difficult to shift the transfer case from and to, each of the available positions. The more we shifted them, as in getting them ready to tow, or using them in the off-road scenarios, the easier and easier they ALL got in shifting.
Just work with it. And, I also use the engine as an assist in many circumstances. That is, in prep for putting the T/C back in to 2H, I'll start the engine, put the trans in gear, immediately take it back out and, while things are slowing down in both the T/C and trans, I'll shift the T/C from N to 2H at that time. Once in a while, I'll get a super slight amount of gear-clash but, nothing absurd. Our 2015 JKUR has about 30K on the clock now and, we've used it for quite a bit of off roading as well as towing and that T/C shifting mechanism is SERIOUSLY easier to shift now than it was when the Jeep was new.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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04-01-2017, 06:48 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Cedar Creek, Tx
Posts: 96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP
tickfarm,
What you're experiencing is quite normal. Many folks that tow Jeeps, especially the later model JKs, have transfer case (not "differential) STIFF SHIFTING issues. The cure for this is to do it more often. You see, the shifting mechanism is a linkage type of arrangment. And, the gears inside that transfer case have no SYNCRO ring to aid in gear meshing like there is in normal stick transmissions. So, both of those are working against you when you're trying to shift. A DIRECT shifter is one where the shift handle goes directly into the trans. That's a way more positive shifting mechanism. The linkage types have tendency to flex which, does not allow for positive shifting. But, the more you use it, the better it gets and wears-in.
The more you use that T/C shifter, the easier it gets. You start to WEAR-IN the mechanism which, makes shifting quite a bit easier. We've owned 9 different Jeeps and, many of them have been very close to brand new when we bought them. Each of those, were very difficult to shift the transfer case from and to, each of the available positions. The more we shifted them, as in getting them ready to tow, or using them in the off-road scenarios, the easier and easier they ALL got in shifting.
Just work with it. And, I also use the engine as an assist in many circumstances. That is, in prep for putting the T/C back in to 2H, I'll start the engine, put the trans in gear, immediately take it back out and, while things are slowing down in both the T/C and trans, I'll shift the T/C from N to 2H at that time. Once in a while, I'll get a super slight amount of gear-clash but, nothing absurd. Our 2015 JKUR has about 30K on the clock now and, we've used it for quite a bit of off roading as well as towing and that T/C shifting mechanism is SERIOUSLY easier to shift now than it was when the Jeep was new.
Scott
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Thanks Scott
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04-01-2017, 07:06 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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I don't know about JK xfer case linkage aftermarket products, if any. On my TJ I installed a Novak xfer case shift - replaced the mechanism of linkages with a flex cable. One if the best changes I have made to the jeep.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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04-01-2017, 06:47 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 335
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I find my TJ transfer case is easer to shift into low range after unhooking. Then I back up a few feet and it more easily goes into high range/ 2 wheEl drive.
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Bounder 36E
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04-01-2017, 07:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 534
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I second what vsheetz is saying. On my JK I also find it easier to go into 4 lo first then drive a few feet before pushing into 2 hi. I've heard stories of people breaking the plastic link if you try to muscle it
__________________
2006 Monaco Diplomat
pulling a 2022 JLUR Diesel
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04-02-2017, 06:06 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 82
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I also have experienced the hard shifting of the transfer case back into 2 High. What has worked for me on my 2016 is with the transfer case still in neutral I shift the transmission into neutral then start the engine. I turn the engine off then shift the transfer case into 2 High shift the transmission into park start the engine and all is good to go.
I will try the shift into 4 low next time to see if that works better.
__________________
2014 Tiffin Allegro Bus 45LP; 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
Blue Ox Aventa LX - M&G Brake System
Good Sam and FMCA Member
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04-02-2017, 08:37 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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I think you will find the owners manual expectation is that the xfer case is transitioned with the jeep moving at a slow speed. No synchros to ensure gears are aligned. That said, usually putting transmission in gear and maybe moving a bit will allow the transition to occur. Never force it...
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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