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Old 01-13-2014, 09:11 AM   #1
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Wrangler towing

I plan on towing a 2006 jeep wrangler x behind my class a.What is required before towing?Are there any fuses that have to be removed or other special procedures I need to be aware of? Thanks for any help out there.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:35 AM   #2
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There's a section in the owners manual starting on page 248 entitled "Recreational Towing". It describes all the steps needed to tow 4 down. Note that only 4wd drive Wranglers can be towed 4 down. In addition they can not be towed using a dolly. All the wheels must either be on the ground unless you tow it with all 4 wheels on a trailer.

If you don't have an owners manual you can download one from the Jeep website.

Here's a link to the 2006 Jeep Wrangler Operators Manual:

http://www.jeep.com/deprecated/download/pdf/manuals/2006_TJ_Wrangler.pdf?myyear=11&myvehicle=4&o-download-button.x=75&o-download-button.y=8
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:38 AM   #3
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Bruc--you will get different ideas on the fuse idea, but I tow a Wrangler unlimited X (aka "Jk"), automatic transmission. Here is what I use:

For wiring: Cooltec, LLC wiring harness (http://www.cooltechllc.com/jeep/jk_t...ness_kit.shtml). This is a wires-only, simple system you can probably install yourself. The Jeep rear driver's brake light is removed, exposing plugs that are disconnected, then the Cooltech harness plugs in there. Then you feed the Cooltech wire up to the front of your Jeep (I fed it through the hollow frame rail) and install the plug on or under your front bumper. Done. No extra fuses or bulbs. You will need a connector with plug ends that match the CoolTech 4-pin to your RV (probably 7-pin). This was included in my kit from CoolTech.

For tow bar: I use (love) my BlueOx Aventa towbar. My jeep has a 3rd party front bumper with HD 1" D-rings double welded (front and back) rated for towing, so I connect my tow bar directly to them. BlueOx sells the connectors.

For braking: I use BlueOx Patriot brake box. Mixed reviews on this system, but I like it. It requires some fooling with to set up each time, but once you get experience it works well and doesn't require hard install. And it can move to different Toads too.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:41 AM   #4
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A few pix. Note the riser that I need in order to level the tow bar. (Forgot to mention that).
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:03 AM   #5
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bruc,

The owners manual is usually the best resource, but things to check on.

Does the steering column lock when the key is removed? If so, you'll need to leave a key in the ignition and turned to the Accessory position. If this is the case I recommend you have a "dummy" key made (one without the security chip) so the Jeep will not run if someone should try to use that key to steal the Jeep.

If the ignition needs to be on when towing you may need to pull a fuse, or do as I did with our '07, I installed a blade switch on one of the battery terminals that allowed me to instantly disconnect the battery. Another alternative would be a charge line run through the wire harness you use to connect the light system between your motor home and the Jeep.

You'll want some kind of supplemental brake system. If you use one that draws power from the Jeep battery a charge line is all that more important. I got tired of having to deal with the "box" that had to be placed between the brake pedal and driver's seat and eventually installed a SMI Air Force One system that is actuated by air supplied by the motorhome. There are similar systems that will use electric vs the air. In either case, a couple of seconds to hook up and no need to find a place to store that brake box.

You'll need some means of activating the park, brake and turn signal lamps on the Jeep while being towed. I prefer the harness that completely bypasses the Jeep system (less opportunity to mess up the Jeep OEM system, and much easier to trouble shoot should there be a problem). There is more than enough room inside the Jeep tail light housings to install the extra bulb fixtures.

A base plate and tow bar will be needed, unless you have an aftermarket bumper like the one shown above, then you can eliminate the base plate. Typically the base plate and tow bar are "matched", that is from the same manufacturer, but tow bar manufacturers make adaptors that will allow their tow bars to be used with another company's base plate. The most common brands for this equipment would be Blue Ox, Roadmaster and Demco. I have zero experience with Demco. I choose Blue Ox over Roadmaster as I don't like the hang-on cross bar that comes with the Roadmaster. You either need to find someplace to store it when you're not towing, or leave it hanging on the front of your vehicle.

If using a base plate, you probably will not need to elevate the hitch, as seen above. In my case I actually needed to add a 4" drop hitch. You won't know if you need either until you have your base plate installed.

This may all sound a bit intimidating, at first, but believe me, the Jeep Wrangler is one of the very easiest vehicles to set up for flat towing.

As mentioned earlier, the two wheel drive versions (what an abomination of nature! ) can not be towed four down (without the installation of a drive shaft disconnect). The 4X4 can not be towed on a dolly.
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:50 AM   #6
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I am about to outfit my Wrangler and the Ready Brute Elite system looks pretty enticing from an ease of use/price point. Just throwing that in the mix.

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Old 01-13-2014, 12:20 PM   #7
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Setup:

Transfer case to neutral
Transmission in park (auto). Any gear (manual)
Turn key to unlock the steering wheel
No fuse to pull, no nothing to disable

As for equipment:

Baseplate or tow from aftermarket bumper (add brackets or adapters to D-ring tabs). Via aftermarket bumper is my preference.

Tow bar - my preference is ReadyBrute if buying new or whatever quality bar you can find used.

Braking system - ReadyBrake or ReadyBrute with ReadyBrake built in.

Lights - magnetic, wired to existing with diodes, or wired to bulbs added to taillight housing (my preference)
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:48 PM   #8
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pretty happy with my setup...

Currie Baseplate,
ReadyBrute
Readybrake
Mopar cable
Readybreak away...

indication light at the surge brake and the Jeep brake....







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Old 01-18-2014, 10:32 AM   #9
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The newer Jeeps (yours is most likely included) do NOT have a steering wheel lock. The key should be removed.

With the proper wiring harness with diodes, no fuses need to be removed and the battery does NOT need to be disconnected. All power to the lights for brakes and turn signals comes from the coach, NOT the Jeep.

Shift the transfer case to Neutral on an auto transmission. Shift the transmission into Park, remove the key and drive. The key is to get the appropriate wiring harness with diodes.

I prefer the Roadmaster brand. I used the wiring harness supplied by Roadmaster to work with their baseplate and wiring socket, then also use their 7 wire to 4 wire flexicoil to run between the coach and Jeep. It all worked like a charm.
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:05 PM   #10
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I have a 2008 Wrangler and it has steering lock.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akeyzoo View Post
I am about to outfit my Wrangler and the Ready Brute Elite system looks pretty enticing from an ease of use/price point. Just throwing that in the mix.

Chris
I did my 07 Unlimited with the ready brute / brake for under $1400 and one day of my own labor. If you didn't already do the install and need moral support, please give me a ring. I'd be happy to help.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertandkim View Post
I have a 2008 Wrangler and it has steering lock.
Steering lock went away about mid year builds 2008. You must have an early build.
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