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Old 07-18-2013, 07:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narampa View Post
Is this dolly a good one? Has anybody had experience with this style.
I'm not interested in opinions on 4 wheels down or other methods of towing.

I am only interested in this particular dolly. I have decided to get a dolly because i will use it for other purposes than behind my motor home.
Is this a good dolly or crap????
It's like this is a Chev better than a Ford????
Same kind of Question!!
Thanks I guess I was not clear in my questions.
This is a good dolly(not the best but by far not the worst) It has large enough wheels,steering axle and surge brakes. The only things you probably won't like is putting the tilt pin back in when the car is on it and it could use a tilting tounge jack for moving it around.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by DGShaffer View Post
The way the ramps tilt you might want to try it out first to make sure that the underside front of the car doesn't hit anything while loading and unloading.

It looks like it might have steerable wheels which makes corning better.

Make sure the straps are in good condition
I agree with Don as far as your car car hitting when loading you can carry 2 small pieces of 2x6 butt them against the ramps when loading and this helps it to clear the lower valance. Nice looking dolly. Jim
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:58 AM   #17
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I do not see steerable wheels? The dolly I have has a pivot pan were the car sits and allows the car to make turns without the steering wheel to be unlocked. There are two dollies in this post and if you see the later one it has a swivel pan that pivots when car makes turns.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:33 AM   #18
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I can't tell what brand it is, but it does have some nice features. The steerable wheels allow the dolly to follow directly in the path of the rear wheels of the motorhome. You don't have to take roundhouse turns to be sure the dolly doesn't cut tthe corner and run into or over something.

It has brakes which Ford recommends when towing anything over 1,500 lbs. I also like the style of ramps it has. They tilt down for loading and unloading. The other common style requires you to crawl under and attach for loading and unloading, then remove and store them while under way.

It has a spare tire and wheel which is nice, but I hope you don't need to use.

If it's in good repair you should be good to go:
1. Wheel bearings repacked recently
2. Current tires (less than 6 years old)
3. Brake fluid changed and system flushed within the last 2 years
4. Brake shoes have sufficient material and properly adjsted
5. Lights and wiring working properly and not corroded or chaffed from dragging on the road.
6. All welds and fasteners in good condition

Just be sure the motorhome has sufficient towing capacity. Some are only rated for 3,500 lbs, while others are rated for 5,000 lbs. If it's only rated for 3,500 lbs changing out the hitch probably won't accomplish much. In many cases the brakes, cooling capacity, and frame strengtth are the limiting factors.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:48 AM   #19
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The good;
Looks clean.
Surge brakes.
Spare included and mounted.
Steering axle vs. pivot pan (no risk of fender contact to toad fender.
Heavy Duty spin-tight hitch latch (ala U-Haul)

The bad;
Tilt wheel tray pin would be under the toad.
Fixed ramps can contact underbody of lower towed cars
Painted finish vs. powder coat or galvanized.
Metal fender (vs. plastic) can rust
Steering axle has more moving parts (service demands) than pivot pan style or fixed frame style (Acme EZE-Tow).

Summary; there is no perfect Dolly. The expensive ones are HEAVY and hard to roll around at the destination. The cheap ones have their obvious problems. Fixed tray, steering axle, or pivot pan - they all work. Just check your straps for tightness when you stop. Check your hubs and lug-nuts for heat and tightness when you stop - and you will be good to go.

Best of luck
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:32 AM   #20
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Thanks for the replies
I did not buy the dolly in the picture I posted. First off the pros and cons listed by Scaraba and Hikerdogs. Made me start to think. After 40 yrs of twisting wrenches, the steering axle and brakes are all maintenance issues down the road no matter what.
Instead I looked at my usage requirements and after rereading the posts.
I was able to find an older TOW MASTER. The type with the skid pan.
I like the simplicity of it.
I have to tear it down and repaint, and new bearings and buy new straps. The older straps are there but I like the idea of having the extra piece of mind with new straps.
After the weekend it should be good for the road.
I still am not sure what I will tow. I have a couple of options,but they are convertibles. Garage Queens. Might trade one off for something more practical.
Fixed ramps are they an issue with smaller cars?
I would look at modifying the ramps if necessary, looking at this I could do it quite easy.
Has anybody ever modified ramps to come off if required?
Something quick quick and easy?
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:25 AM   #21
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Fixed Ramps and the Toad Underbody

This video shows what I was talking about with fixed ramps. It is not really about "small" cars, but more about "low" cars:

100_4561.MOV - YouTube

I would have to look at a dolly in-person to make a recommendation about mods to the ramps. My Acme EZE-Tow uses simple car ramps that can be bought from any auto parts store. Composite construction, strong and light weight - they are stored with the spare tire in a belly bin of my RV when not needed - clean and safe, but also can be carried in the attached tray on the dolly...so EZE to use

Safe travels
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:39 AM   #22
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Wouldn't raising the hitch ball height lower the stowed ramp angle? That obviously then leads to remain within the dolly's recommended hitch height as the geometry changes the force on the ball.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088 View Post
This video shows what I was talking about with fixed ramps. It is not really about "small" cars, but more about "low" cars:

100_4561.MOV - YouTube

I would have to look at a dolly in-person to make a recommendation about mods to the ramps. My Acme EZE-Tow uses simple car ramps that can be bought from any auto parts store. Composite construction, strong and light weight - they are stored with the spare tire in a belly bin of my RV when not needed - clean and safe, but also can be carried in the attached tray on the dolly...so EZE to use

Safe travels
Thanks for the video. I am sure that will be an issue with the short wheel base car that I am towing.
I just got back from buying new straps. I have the car on the dolly at present time. I am going to modify the ramps so they are removable. But wouldn't you know it the car got a fuel leak and I had to run for parts. The one issue I have about removable straps is the dolly going over center when I remove the ramps. Mabe not overcenter but not wanting to tilt. Anyway I'm sure you know what I mean.
I looked into the ramps that you carry in storage. The ramps I found are very heavy.
I sure would like some info on ramp mods from people who have done this. There are a lot of MASTER TOW dolly's out there. I would imagine someone has modified the ramps.
Anyway once I have painted and done the mods I will post a picture.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:54 AM   #24
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Wouldn't raising the hitch ball height lower the stowed ramp angle? That obviously then leads to remain within the dolly's recommended hitch height as the geometry changes the force on the ball.
The ball height shoud be between 18&20 inches.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narampa View Post
Is this dolly a good one? Has anybody had experience with this style.
I'm not interested in opinions on 4 wheels down or other methods of towing.

[My campsite is slow, I answered before discovering you'd already bought a new dolly. 'Will leave this up, in case it helps others.]

I've looked at no less than 40 photos of dollies, and can't spot this design anywhere. But, that might now be the end of the world. It doesn't look like the ramps tilt, which might prove irksome.

But, if the price is right... Check the tire wear. My Roadmaster is difficult to get perfectly aligned, is hard on tires. Are the diagonal brace arms OEM?

If you're hauling a Luigi, ie a Fiat 600* it might be the right choice. Part of my extensive challenges with the Roadmaster could've traced to my choice of autos: a Honda Crosstour. It sat near the upper end of the load rating for the dolly, the miserable OEM Carlisle tires blew while still practically new, taking two fenders with them.

Dollies are happier with lighter cars, I think. With my current toad, a Prius -- what better counter-balance to 5 mpg in your rig than to "push" it down the highway with a 55 mpg toad? -- is much better suited to the puny Load Range C tires installed by manufacturers. My tire running temps on this 1,000 mile excursion have been in the double-digits.

*My first car, a Fiat 600D (meaning a Domestic model, with suicide doors), a real chick magnet!
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