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Old 08-26-2013, 04:30 PM   #1
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1989 fleetwood tioga atwood furnace

So I thought I finally had my furnace working good but it still doesn't fire up sometimes. After probing around with my meter I realized the gas valve isn't getting a good 12v signal. It is only reading around 10.5 -11 volts and it sounds like the solenoid is having a hard time opening the valve. I sent 12 volts directly to the solenoid with a spare battery and it gives a good clear audible click. But when it applies voltage thru the board it sounds like it is struggling. So my question is do you think this is a indicator that the board is going bad or do I just have a bad connection or ground somewhere?
Thanks
Pete
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:08 AM   #2
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Check and see if you have a good 12-13v going into the board and then check the connections going out of the board. If you have significant voltage drop in the board with good voltage entering the board then you may need a new one. Dinosaur makes great replacement boards and have excellent customer service.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:52 AM   #3
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I agree with the previous post. In addition, your coach is 25 years old and very much subject to bad grounds. When testing I would use alternate grounds and even the battery. I'm not sure if the ground on the furnace is local or remote, but I would check.

In a coach that old, it's always a good idea to periodically check the neutral and ground connections at the grounding block as well as ALL ground connections to the frame.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:17 PM   #4
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So I had a couple of free minutes tonight and I had 12.3 v going into the board but as soon as the fan kicks on the voltage dropped to 11.3volts. Is this a normal condition?
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Old 09-05-2013, 04:13 AM   #5
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So I had a couple of free minutes tonight and I had 12.3 v going into the board but as soon as the fan kicks on the voltage dropped to 11.3volts. Is this a normal condition?
No. To begin, 12.3v is only about a 65% charged battery. That in of itself is not bad if it is in good condition. Of course you could have 4 batteries at 12.3v and you would have 4 times the reserve capacity. I assume you have only one battery.

When the motor kicks in and pulls the system to 11.3v, which is 90% discharged, this is very bad. If the battery was in good shape, it may drop to 12.1 for a second or two, but should come back to 12.2 or 12.3. What you describe points to a very weak coach battery.
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:13 AM   #6
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I put the battery back on the charger last night. Hopefully the battery is not bad as I bought it only a month ago. And yes, I only have 1 house battery.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:46 AM   #7
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I put the battery back on the charger last night. Hopefully the battery is not bad as I bought it only a month ago. And yes, I only have 1 house battery.
The battery should be good then if it's been kept charged. How long did you see the 11.3v after the motor starting running? Or was it running at all?
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:44 AM   #8
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I'll try to test it again today when I get home. The battery should have a good charge by them too.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:49 PM   #9
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So I charged the battery and probed again and it still drops a full volt when the fan comes on. The fan is indeed running and sounds strong and the voltage coming into the furnace was dropping the whole time the fan was running. I put the meter on my battery and the battery would only drop .1-.2 when the fan was running. I appreciate your advice with this clyon.
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:06 PM   #10
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So I charged the battery and probed again and it still drops a full volt when the fan comes on. The fan is indeed running and sounds strong and the voltage coming into the furnace was dropping the whole time the fan was running. I put the meter on my battery and the battery would only drop .1-.2 when the fan was running. I appreciate your advice with this clyon.
Well that is normal then. When the fan quits the batt should come up 0.1v or so. Of course with 1 battery, 1 overnite stay in cold weather will be about all 1 battery will take,.depending on other loads you have subjected it to. Hopefully your 1 battery is a true deep cycle.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:08 AM   #11
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There is also a sail switch that must be made in order for the valve to open. If it is opening you should smell propane. Is your igniter snapping voltage during the cycle? Does it fire up then go out after 3-9 seconds or not fire at all? You may want to grab a board and some clear tubing and rig up a hygrometer to test your gas pressure. Do the other LP appliances work fine?
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:32 AM   #12
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The main problem that i am having is the furnace is not lighting every time it comes on. It probably lights fine 75% of the time. The fan always comes on and I always hear the ignitor clicking but I think the gas valve is not opening the times that it doesn't light. When I apply 12v directly to the gas valve I hear I good audible click but when the furnace is powered normally the gas valve sounds much weaker like it is struggling to open and sometimes I don't hear it at all and that is obviously when it doesn't light.
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Old 09-06-2013, 12:12 PM   #13
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What you describe is a voltage drop to the gas valve. Have you been able to test the voltage there?

As I outlined earlier, old coaches are notorious for having loose, worn and corroded connections on both positive and grounds. This can create all kinds of strange and annoying problems.

At this point you couldn't rule out a faulty valve or a partially blocked orifice either.
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Old 09-06-2013, 12:33 PM   #14
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I tested the voltage to the valve and it was only 10.5-11 volts. That was my initial post. I don't think the valve is faulty because when I sent 12volts right to the valve it sounds good. It sounds like it is struggling when it get powered thru the board.
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