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Old 08-31-2011, 07:36 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ukwildcatfan

Thanks again for all the advice. From what I understand, the only warranty we will qualify is the remainder of the 5yr/100,000 mile powertrain warranty, so we will be covered until September 2012. Right now we are waiting from the original dealer to send Ford the actual sale date and then all should be good!
I think you mean 5/60,000 mile.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:52 PM   #16
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I think you mean 5/60,000 mile.
In our case it is 5/100,000 BUT the 100,000 is measured in kilometres.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:58 PM   #17
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There should have been a "delayed start" paper filed with Ford to show when it was actually sold.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:00 PM   #18
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I am not familiar with your MH but on mine Fleetwood buys a stripped chassis from Ford and adds everything else including the glove box and windshield wipers.
I think you will find the wipers and the glove box are standard (go to the Ford site and you will see they are identical (to my Itasca anyway)). Also, suspension is not included in the power train warranyt, nor is the battery, brakes, instrument panel, and on and on. If we decide to go for the extended warranty we will compare prices for a power train extension and the works.

BTW, seats are one thing they definitely don't buy from Ford as they each think they can do better. Itasca played cheapo and ordered the lousy trip computer - basically an odometer and nothing more. Very annoying since ours in in KMs and given most of our use is in the US I'd have liked to have been able to switch over as we do in our cars. It is an option and I guess in the name of cost saving............
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ukwildcatfan View Post
Thanks again for all the advice. From what I understand, the only warranty we will qualify is the remainder of the 5yr/100,000 mile powertrain warranty, so we will be covered until September 2012. Right now we are waiting from the original dealer to send Ford the actual sale date and then all should be good!

Ok I sold cars for a number of years so here is the low down. The first owner of a vehicle (with a few exceptions) is the first person to register it with the DMV. On the date you accept the keys is the effective warranty start date. From that day you have 3 years or 36,000 miles for all factory installed parts excluding items that wear such as tires, breaks, wiper blades ect. The power train warranty covers the engine, transmission and rear end from manufacturer’s defects. All other defects that you may find after the 3/36,000 are your responsibility.

Now having said there are a few exceptions to the rule, the most common is that the RV or car was at John Doe Ford and they went out of business. The inventory was then liquidated in an auction. Even though it is bought by another Ford dealership the car's warranty start date is the date of the auction.


Your vehicle was purchased in a lot with a bunch of others just like it. It was sent to a factory and the coach was added. This in most cases does not count as a purchase. it is then sold to a bank who sends it to the RV dealership. The dealership is not the first owner and perhaps the vehicle sat on the lot for several years. Unless Ford has changed their policy since I retired your warranty start date should be the day you took the keys unless the above is true. The best case scenario is that you should have 3 years or 36,000 miles from the date of purchase and 5 years or 100,000 miles on the power train.


The reason that I recommend that you invest in an extended warranty is that the vehicle has been sitting since 2008. There are several components that don't take well to sitting. There are several levels of coverage and the price difference between the bottom and the top is minimal. By adding this coverage you gain protection of several hundred items that aren’t in the power train. I would recommend that you get the Ford warranty and not an aftermarket one. It has been my experience in the past that aftermarket warranties have too many loopholes and have more excuses not to pay.

Another thing to check for your own safety is the tire date code. Tires do have a shelf life and they are good for about 5 years. In some states it is against the law to sell new tires that are greater than 4 years old. The rubber inside the tire starts to break down and eventually the belts separate and you have a catastrophic failure that leaves a big strip of tire on the road. Other rubber items have been sitting on the lot for the last 3 to 4 years like your hoses and belts. You also may want to flush and fill your radiator as the coolant may not be what it was when it was new. I am not trying to scare you I am trying to give you a heads up and you may be able to get the dealer to take a look at these things and correct them for you.
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