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Old 10-15-2013, 06:06 AM   #15
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I suggest you look for a battery disconnect switch. It activates a battery disconnect relay and the switch is often near the entrance area. Cannot imagine a 2008 Navion not having one.

I do not know the location of the disconnect relay. But it will not be far from the battery. One thing that puzzles me is that you said your inverter was working all this time. Hmmm. Please reconfirm you have 120VAC in your couch at the inverter plugs without any external 120VAC, including gen, connected/on.

Often that battery disconnect switch or relay is the cause of no DC in the coach. The relay will be electrically between your batteries and your DC power panel. Voltage at the battery and no voltage at the DC panel points right to that relay, a bad connection, a fuse or breaker.

Suggest you search for that switch and when you find it, turn it on and off and listen for a clicking sound. The clicking sound will be the battery disconnect relay, if it is working of course.

Perhaps some Navion owners might wish to jump in here re the battery disconnect switch and the relay etc.
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #16
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I think the problem is most likely in the disconnect switch relay. It clicks when the remote switch is pressed but it doesn't turn anything on. I need to find the relay and see if it is working.
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2008navguy View Post
I think the problem is most likely in the disconnect switch relay. It clicks when the remote switch is pressed but it doesn't turn anything on. I need to find the relay and see if it is working.
Suggest you have someone activate the switch and then follow the sound. Once you have located the relay, measure the voltage on each side as you activate the relay. When it is closed, the voltage should be the same on each side of the contacts. When it is open, then of course one side will not have any voltage.

You can easily bypass that relay, and then put a physical battery disconnect on your battery or remove the ground lead when you store the vehicle.

Good luck. Those relays are often a PITA IMHO

There still might be a fuse between the dist panel and the battery
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:24 PM   #18
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I found the correct circuit breaker which had popped, and now the problem is corrected. I had only checked 3 different circuit panels and did not realize there is a fourth one!
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:21 PM   #19
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Good you got it solved. As I said breaker, fuse, relay or bad connection. There had to be some protection between the panel and the batt. Some converters have self setting thermal breakers also. yours might be one of those. But not relevent in this case.

Suggest you download the schematics for your coach. all should be shown there.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:30 PM   #20
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Ditto...glad it worked out easily for ya in the end!
That said...House batteries at NO LOAD and 12.4 after charging at rest are showing some significant wear IF indeed there are no parasitic loads. They may not be getting a 100% charge from your normal routine. Since they are pretty new and reading a bit low...now would be a good time to equalize them to extend life and get rid of sulfation.
All best in any case...that is a sweet coach!
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:00 AM   #21
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Libero, where do I find the schematics? It would be great to have the wiring diagram.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:52 AM   #22
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Try "winnebagoind.com" sorry on my phone and could not copy and paste the link. Or google "winnebago schemantics"

Did not download myself. I suspect if you give your coach number etc to Winni they will help also.

I got schematics for every RV I owned except for a TT I had when I was overseas where I made my own by reverse engineering. It was simple but unique.

If you get a standard telephone signal tracer, it will really help to provide wire routing. Often schemantics don't show the physical wire routing. I use it sooo many times in my house, RV and cars etc.

Good luck.
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