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05-10-2017, 06:19 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
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30 Amp problem
I have a 2013 Class C when camping I am running the AC and during cooking at time my power go out and this happen when I used an electric frying pan or when I turned on the hot water heater. Any help. Thank you
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05-10-2017, 06:33 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Appalachian Campers Mid Atlantic Campers Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,622
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You have to turn things off (like the AC), to prevent from drawing more current that 30 amps.
You can measure the current consumption of each device, but mine are:
- A/C's are 15 amps each
- Hot water heater 11 amps (consider shifting to propane mode when on 30 amp svc)
- Converter (makes 12v) up to 10 amps, depending on your battery charge. Some converters have a configuration setting which allows you to throttle back it's maximum current draw and recharge slower.
- Refrig, 1 amp when the compressor is running, 8 amp when it's defrosting
- Mwave 14 amps
- Fireplace 15 amps
- TV's are about an amp each.
- your actual device consumption can be different, I give you mine only as a reference.
You can look at the wattage of the frying pan, and determine current (#watts / 120 = #amps). Similar for other items: crockpot, hair dryer, iron, PC's, etc.
With only 30 amps to work with, you need to limit/schedule when you run your high current devices.
__________________
DaveB, Raleigh, NC
2015 Tiffin RED 33AA, w/Honda CRV
VMSpc, Magnum BMK/ARC50
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05-10-2017, 06:01 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South of Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,105
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I installed a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C, with the remote indicator in the coach. It allows me to see the exact amount of current I am drawing at any given moment, and I know if I need to use the propane for the water heater and the fridge to reduce the electrical loads so I can use something such as a electric hot plate..... when the A/C is running. My coach has a load shedding device that will not allow the electric water heater element and the microwave to operate at the same time, which also helps to prevent the overloads.
Every thing you do about RV'ing is a compromise. From taking a "navy" shower to conserve water, to juggling electrical loads and propane usage, to having "part time" beds/couch/dinette that are used for one thing during the day, and something else at night.
Charles
__________________
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed PacBrake std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. Previously, 2008 Thor Freedom Spirit 180, SOLD! 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome, SOLD!
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05-11-2017, 05:45 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
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I just got a Hughes Autoformer Voltage Regulator and Surge Protector 2400 Joules 30amps.
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05-11-2017, 06:05 AM
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#5
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 67
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What does that have to do with over loading?
__________________
2007 Winnebago Voyage F35L Ford F53
2014 Honda CRV
1SG Retired US Army
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05-11-2017, 06:15 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 3,542
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In general, you can probably assume that you can have any 2 large draw appliances running. AC & Water heater, for instance. Have both of those on and then turn on the electric skillet and you'll probably trip the breaker.
One 'sneaky' large draw COULD be your battery charger, especially if you're using a lot of 12 volt items in the coach (lights, some TVs, various electronics charging off 12 volt, etc etc).
__________________
2013 Winnebago Sightseer 36V
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05-11-2017, 06:16 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 3,542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLD1SGT
What does that ave to do with over loading?
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I presume that was in response to Charles's suggesting to buy a Progressive brand unit. "I just bought this thing, so I probably can't go buy that other thing right now".
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2013 Winnebago Sightseer 36V
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05-11-2017, 06:18 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: western NC mountains!
Posts: 4,106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewMarMan
I have a 2013 Class C when camping I am running the AC and during cooking at time my power go out and this happen when I used an electric frying pan or when I turned on the hot water heater. Any help. Thank you
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do you mean that you are tripping a breaker?
just because you are using the AC should not inhibit you from using other items, THOUGH you have to be aware of how MUCH you are using ...
tripped breakers means you are exceeding your limit.
the AC unit itself could be using up to HALF of your 30a service, so you'll have to make sure that your 'electric frying pan', which may also be a 15 to 20a device, is not taking you over your overall 30a limit. The water heater can also do this when it is in 'heating' mode.
While it seems like these things should be easily handled within 30a shore power, you also have to remember that other items are also in the mix, device/phone chargers, lights, fans, electric fridge, etc.,etc.,
One way to compensate during AC usage, is to cut OFF the battery charger...
which can sometime be one of those 'hidden' users of power.
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05-11-2017, 06:28 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,309
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As others have said since you only have 30 amps available you have to manage your simultaneous power usage. Anything that generates heat will be high draw appliances and may not be usable at the same time. If you have the option, run the wh on gas if you also need the AC. You will quickly learn what you can and cannot run at the same time.
You may also want to leave that electric skillet at home and use a regular skillet on your gas stove. Just a thought.
__________________
Tom
2016 Newmar Bay Star Sport 3004
2021 Jeep Gladiator Sport Willys
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05-11-2017, 06:41 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 7,114
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One of the side effects of RVing, many people learn basic electricity, and how to budget their power consumption. We're spoiled at home, we just plug it in, turn it on and GO.
Not so much when your power budget limits you to 30 amps. If you exceed your budget, everything shuts off. (the circuit breaker trips)
30 amps isn't a hard number, it can actually go down to the low to mid 20s, depending on the quality and age of the circuit breaker, connections, wiring, etc. that you're plugged into.
Review the list that Kjawah provided. Add up the numbers for the electrical devices you're attempting to run. Look at the different appliances that are plugged into 110 volts. You should find a tag that tells you how many amps the device is drawing.
An electric fry pan can easily draw 12-15 amps, a 1500 watt space heater will consume 15 amps. Same with an electric hair curler or dryer.
Note - You're AC unit will draw significantly more amps when its internal compressor first starts.
Generally, I try not to run two heavy consumers at the same time, i.e. If we want to use the microwave, we temporarily place the AC unit to a higher temperature or FAN only.
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05-11-2017, 07:00 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 24
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I needed a surge protector so I got this 2 in 1 RV Voltage Booster now with Advanced Surge Protection.
Complete LED Park Power Diagnostics for the Most Complete Protection Available
Hughes Autoformers are designed to increase voltage to your RV and help eliminate low voltage damage to your appliances. Unlike a boost transformer, the 'sense circuit' in the Autoformer will adjust the output based on the load demand. For this reason you can run additional appliances on a 30-amp input. For example, a coffee pot and microwave each draw 1200 watts. Add wattage for the converter and/or a refrigerator - about 800 additional watts – and now you have 3200 watt demand.
I still will monitor the wattage.
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05-11-2017, 07:08 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 3,542
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ummm... I'm not sure I believe everything I read about the Hughes - or at least not everything that it implies.
You've got a 30 amp main breaker in your RV. You CAN'T use more than 30 amps in your RV without tripping that breaker - it doesn't matter what the Hughes can do to the incoming power.
The RV park has a 30 amp breaker on their pole, you CAN'T use more than 30 amps without tripping that breaker.
One of those two 30 amp breakers is going to trip, I don't think the Hughes can't change that.
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2013 Winnebago Sightseer 36V
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05-11-2017, 10:14 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 843
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When the campground voltage is low the some amperages mentioned by Kiawah above go up. So it is possible that what works with 120V may pop a 30A breaker at 109V.
30A x 120V = 3600W
33A x 109V = 3600W
The air conditioner is going to draw more amps at 109V to do the same work. That would add to the 33A shown above. Sorry for lack of a calculated increase. But it has been 50 years since I thought about this stuff.
A bit off subject but the Hughes 30A 3600W booster is a much better product than the 30A Progressive product. It only costs $87 more per published Mfg. retail prices. But it has 2400 Joules surge protection. Progressive has 1740 Joules. The best reason to use the Hughes product is you know everything inside of your camper is seeing 120V all the time. All the other important protections are on both units.
__________________
2007 Roadtrek 210 Popular
Chevy 6.0
2015 GMC Terrain
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05-11-2017, 02:44 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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I have found not all 30a service are as robust as others. Voltage will vary, weak breakers, aged wiring with poor connections. So some CG will trip the breaker more readily than others.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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