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Old 06-21-2011, 01:55 PM   #15
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Does the 18volt have enough ump to actually lift any weight or are you just using it to speed raise and lower the jack itself.
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:41 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Senior Chief View Post
Water running off the side of the RV is perfectly normal; this is how your AC gets rid of the water that condenses on the fins. The hotter and more humid it is, the more water will run off.

Water running inside probably means you have a partially clogged drain and/or a bad gasket under the AC.

You can fix either one yourself.

Go up on your roof and remove the plastic cowling from the AC. Try to lift or rock the unit; if you feel any movement at all, whether up & down or side-to-side you will need to tighten or replace the gasket.

The gasket under the AC is a 1" thick foam that fits around the 14" by 14" hole in the roof the AC fits into. The AC unit just rests on the top of this gasket, compressing it in place by long bolts that go through to the ceiling. If the gasket is old and no longer springy, it won't seal tight against the roof anymore. You can try tightening the long bolts to see if that helps; sometimes it does.

You can get to the bolts from inside the coach; remove the plastic cover on the ceiling (clean the filters while you have this down).

You should be able to see the 4 long bolts at the sides of the square hole that goes up on the roof.

If they have play in them, tighten them just until you feel resistance -should be no more than 1/4 inch. If you tighten them all the way, they totally compress your gasket and ruin the seal anyway.

If tightening the bolts doesn't fix the leak, come back and I'll give you more detailed directions on replacing the gasket.

If you haven't already done so, you'll want to clean the coils and straighten any bent fins while you're working on your AC unit, it will cool much better.

Check the drain for leaves, debris , mud daubers nests, etc.
Thanks for that info. I really appreciate it. I plan on getting the Motorhome out of storage Wednesday. I may print this and run over and check it out tomorrow afternoon. I have it stored indoors about 15-20 minutes from me. It has been stored indoors when not in use since 1998.

I replaced the shroud a couple of weeks ago. I did not see any damage to anything. I will try and run over there tomorrow and pull off the interior shroud and see if the gasket is ok. I should be able to tell from there.

I have not been on much the last couple weeks as I am in the middle of some week long college courses I take every summer. I had one June 6-10, another June 20-24, and I have one next week.

Hopefully I will get to this before Independence Day weekend as we're planning on camping in it at the famiy farm.

Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:27 AM   #17
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i use a small construction type level,when i first pull onto a campsite i look at the terrain on which i am parked,if its low on one side or the other i place 1 piece of 2x12 in front of the low side tires front and back,pull up on them,and check with the level,placed on the front and rear bumpers if its close i then put a small bottle jack under the frame and raise it to over level just a hair and run the scissor jacks down to contact the ground securly,after all jacks are down,icheck the level again and modify as needed,usually after doing this a number of times the whole process becomes quicker and easier,if your scissor jacks are not tight and the wind is blowing you could bend them due to the rocking of the unit,another place to check for level is at the door opening,if its not level the door wont close properly which causes people to slam the door and thats not good,i always go front to back,then side to side,works everytime.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:37 PM   #18
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Good point on the door. Our door sticks a little bit, but I figured out the frame is missing a couple screws. Need to take a look at that eventually.
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
I can tell you that if the jacks are POWER GEAR there rare a couple of screwdriver adjusted adjustments on it..
This thread is wandering a little...lol.

But the automatic powergear hydraulic jacks on my 08 monaco are calibrated through the keypad, no screws to turn ever.
The procedure can be downloaded from powergear's website.
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Old 07-16-2011, 11:04 PM   #20
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Yeah the topic has wandered a bit. However, I must say it has all been very helpful. Thank you all.
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:24 PM   #21
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When I get paid next I am going to get some magnetic ones like you mentioned. Although I may have an AC repair bill in the next 2 weeks. Today at the West Omaha KOA the drain tube must have a clog or other issue as water started dripping in from the Duo Therm Brisk Air. It was dripping from the filter. There was also water running down the passenger side of the rig from the AC unit.
With the temps in the Midwest over 90 you might check for frost on the A/C - that will cause water to drip inside the unit as well....
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Old 07-24-2011, 01:02 PM   #22
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With the temps in the Midwest over 90 you might check for frost on the A/C - that will cause water to drip inside the unit as well....

good point. We did not have condesation anywhere other than running down the side. My 3 year old used it to "wash" her trike at one point.

So I guess tightening the mounting bolts did the trick. I appreciate the help.

Have not had money to get levels yet. Too many other expenses. Have not seen the magnetic ones at Walmart here down the street. I'll check another one a couple miles away. I found a small level and put it in the fridge when I parked. It was level, so I left well enough alone.

I'll have to see if the local RV shop has those magnetic levels. I looked all over the motor home. I could not find any levels mounted anywhere at all.

I think I want stabilizers of some type. The rig sways a bit with movement inside. Wakes me up at night.
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Old 08-14-2011, 07:50 PM   #23
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Well, getting back to the original topic of this post I think I am ready to tackle leveling out our Mallard at campsites. Yesterday I went over to AC Nelson RV World in Omaha and I bought the following...

A 10 pack of Lynx Levelers
2 small graduated levels
(Not magnetic, but "Guarenteed" to take the guess work out of
leveling)
I also got a small surface level - this is a flat square level with a circle in the middle. It is on a level surface when the bubble is in the middle of the circle. The parts lady at AC Nelson thought that is the best one to use to make sure the fridge is level. No reason not to believe her as she's got more experience in RVs than I have years on Earth.

Thanks for all the help you all. I really appreciate it. This forum and it's awesome people are a great resource.

Not to tackle stabilization...
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:33 PM   #24
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Another question on leveling

I have a Vista 30W with HWH Automatic Leveling Jacks. I've tweaked the sensor box to attempt to get the coach to level itself perfectly level, and I've gotten it real close, but still not perfectly level. I recently bought one of the electronic Eze-Level devices to help, which works really well and makes the job a lot easier. My question is this: Do all jacks have to be down and supporting the coach before leveling, or can you just lower the jacks that you need to raise one portion of the coach. e.g. If the front-left is low, can you just raise the front end and left side, while leaving the rear jacks stored, or will that put too much pressure on the rear tires/chassis of the motorhome?? I once had just the left-front jack extended to slightly raise the coach on that side, and someone told me that I couldn't do that because it would put too much pressure on the tires on the opposite side, or too much torque on the chassis. :>O If I raise the rear of the coach with the jacks until they engage and stabilize the coach, and then raise the front wheels until the coach is level, it raises the front wheels completely off the ground, which also raises the door steps to an unacceptable height.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:52 PM   #25
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I have HWH on my class C. HWH are designed to level side to side first then front to back. As for using only the front or rear - my manual calls for all jacks to be used - the ones not required for leveling are used for stability. the leveling jacks will raise the MH while the stabilizing ones will contact the ground enough to minimize rocking. I have been in situations where the front tires have been lifted off the ground to level - i usually try to get boards under the tires to minimize this (DW is worried when this occurs). Also moving a bit on the pad usually helps. CAUTION never - i mean never level without blocking your tires (front and/or back) -- if the back tires come off the ground the MH will roll..... this is not a good thing..

So block tires
hit auto level
OR
level side to side
level front to back

enjoy!!!
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:11 PM   #26
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Great point on the leveling chocks. Huge believer in those. Had a car roll off a jack when changing a tire. Didn't like that. Don't want anything to move on the mallard
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Old 01-15-2012, 08:45 PM   #27
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When you level your Class C, you want to make sure, first of all, that your refrigerator is level. If you run your RV reefer out of level, you will eventually ruin it.

Somewhere in your rig will be some small levels attached to the walls. These may or may not still be accurate. So, for the first time, try leveling your rig in your driveway or other flat place.

Pick up a round bubble level (to indicate level in all directions at once) and 2 stick-on levels in the RV section at Walmart, for example.

This first time, you want the round bubble level on the freezer shelf or other flat place in your fridge, to indicate whether or not your reefer is level.

You can use pieces of lumber (cheap) or sets of orange Lynx Levelers blocks (expensive) to put under your tires to level up your rig; it will take some experimentation the first time.

Once the bubble level in the fridge is smack in the center, check the existing level indicators you found inside your rig. If they also indicate level, both front-to-back and side-to-side, you're good. If you didn't find those original level indicators, or they are inaccurate, place the stick-on levels you purchased in an easy-to-see location, so that they show level, one for the side-to-side, the other for back-and-forth.

Now, you know your fridge will always be level once the stick-on's show level.

Make sense?

Hydraulic levelers are several thousand dollars, while manual scissor-jack style levelers which are bolted or welded on the frame run from $50-$100 a piece. Lynx levelers cost about $30 a bag (you'll want several) and 2x8's or 2x10's maybe a buck or two a board foot.


Just level it up in the frig. If it's level the motorhome is level unless someone mounted the frig in sideways. Once you get the frig level mount the level by the drivers seat and if it's also level there glue it down. Then you can tell without getting out of the seat when it's level.
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:09 AM   #28
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I use the Bigfoot auto leveling system on my unit and it has both good points and bad points. The best part is that when I camp it is always level and works great. I hit 2 buttons and I'm ready to hook up and deploy my bumpouts.
The drawbacks are the cost and it does torque the coach at times which makes the exit door hard to open. Other than that I can't find anything to complain about.
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