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Old 06-15-2011, 11:08 PM   #1
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A couple questions on leveling

Hello,

Still trying to get my bearings with everything on my 1985 Mallard Class C motor home. I have been trying to find information about leveling. My only experience with this concept is on my popup camper we sold when we got the motorhome. It was incredibly easy to level and had leveling legs built in. The motor home has no such leveling system. So I have a few questions about leveling...

1. What do I need to get as far as leveling/stabilizing jacks?
any recommendations on type, brand and source would be greatly appreciated.

I do have 2 sets of tire chocks I use when we are parked, but currently that is all we have.

2. RAISE Levelers- What are these? I do not have them and I saw them on a Class C checklist thread on here.

3. What else do I need?

Thank you.

Brandon
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:42 AM   #2
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As for the automatic levelers there OK if you want to spend a couple of grand for them. On that age of MH I wouldn't. The concept is the same for leveling a MH and TT, except you don't have a tongue jack. I use lynx levelers for my MH.
1. After backing into site I take out my level and place it on my front and back bumper to see how far I'm off.
2. We determine what side and how far of we need and place blocks accordingly (include blocks for both duals)
3. Pull onto blocks and check level again. (If within a 1/4 bubble I leave alone)
4. I don't use stablizing jacks because I'm not worried about a little bounce in the coach. With the weight and size of the MH you would need a pretty good size stablizing jack I would think.
5. Set up lawn chair and pop a cold one.

I hope this helps. I had a TT and it accually took longer to set up then the MH.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:08 AM   #3
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When you level your Class C, you want to make sure, first of all, that your refrigerator is level. If you run your RV reefer out of level, you will eventually ruin it.

Somewhere in your rig will be some small levels attached to the walls. These may or may not still be accurate. So, for the first time, try leveling your rig in your driveway or other flat place.

Pick up a round bubble level (to indicate level in all directions at once) and 2 stick-on levels in the RV section at Walmart, for example.

This first time, you want the round bubble level on the freezer shelf or other flat place in your fridge, to indicate whether or not your reefer is level.

You can use pieces of lumber (cheap) or sets of orange Lynx Levelers blocks (expensive) to put under your tires to level up your rig; it will take some experimentation the first time.

Once the bubble level in the fridge is smack in the center, check the existing level indicators you found inside your rig. If they also indicate level, both front-to-back and side-to-side, you're good. If you didn't find those original level indicators, or they are inaccurate, place the stick-on levels you purchased in an easy-to-see location, so that they show level, one for the side-to-side, the other for back-and-forth.

Now, you know your fridge will always be level once the stick-on's show level.

Make sense?

Hydraulic levelers are several thousand dollars, while manual scissor-jack style levelers which are bolted or welded on the frame run from $50-$100 a piece. Lynx levelers cost about $30 a bag (you'll want several) and 2x8's or 2x10's maybe a buck or two a board foot.
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:37 PM   #4
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Thank you for the education you guys. I appreciate it. I really like that I learn something new every time I log into this forum. I like that. Same kind of treatement I get on the AMC Eagle Nest Forum. That is great. I will have to go pick up some of those Lynx levers. I saw the guy to the east of me on our maiden voyage had those.

Never seen any levels built into the motorhome. But I am sure AC Nelson in Omaha will have the stick on levels. I bet I can get some cheap at ACE for the bumpers.

Thanks again. Love this forum experience so far. Kudos.
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:39 AM   #5
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83 Eagle; don't assume your bumpers are level! Heck , I know mine aren't!

Remember, its your refrigerator that needs to be level, even if you're running it on shore power.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:49 AM   #6
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On my winidsport 32A, I have Hydraulic levelers, my questions is where does the unit measure to verify it is auto level. I put a level on the floor in the middle of the coach and it was close but not level..so where would you check it see if the MH is actually level.
Just wondering??
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:00 AM   #7
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Somewhere on the frame is a box, inside this box is a device that tests for level (pendlum or plum-bob type device) where it is.. I can not tell you since it could be anywhere

I can tell you that if the jacks are POWER GEAR there rare a couple of screwdriver adjusted adjustments on it.

If you wish to level with jack stands you need screw type and I'd suggest a good hydraulic bottle jack as well, way easier to pump up a bottle jack then screw up a screw, then screw the screw up to the right height and lock it Stow the bottle and enjoy.

I have a class A, but I have a collection of bottle jacks.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senior Chief View Post
83 Eagle; don't assume your bumpers are level! Heck , I know mine aren't!

Remember, its your refrigerator that needs to be level, even if you're running it on shore power.
Good point Senior Chief. Never thought about the bumpers not being level. Thank you. So as long as the fridge is level I should be good to camp?

I am going to dig into the parts catalog and see if I can find some stick on levels.
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Old 06-18-2011, 08:48 AM   #9
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If you can't find/don't want to use stick on levels from Walmart or wherever, you can just find (or build) 2 surfaces somewhere in the rig that correspond to level when you have the fridge level.

You can screw 2 little "shelves" at 90 degrees to each other of 1x2 in an inconspicuous spot for resting a straight construction-type level on, for checking your level,

or you can just take your little carpenter's level around and find 2 places or surfaces in the rig that correspond to the fridge; maybe your countertop and the floor in front of the bathroom, or whatever.
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:52 PM   #10
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When I get paid next I am going to get some magnetic ones like you mentioned. Although I may have an AC repair bill in the next 2 weeks. Today at the West Omaha KOA the drain tube must have a clog or other issue as water started dripping in from the Duo Therm Brisk Air. It was dripping from the filter. There was also water running down the passenger side of the rig from the AC unit.
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:54 AM   #11
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Water running off the side of the RV is perfectly normal; this is how your AC gets rid of the water that condenses on the fins. The hotter and more humid it is, the more water will run off.

Water running inside probably means you have a partially clogged drain and/or a bad gasket under the AC.

You can fix either one yourself.

Go up on your roof and remove the plastic cowling from the AC. Try to lift or rock the unit; if you feel any movement at all, whether up & down or side-to-side you will need to tighten or replace the gasket.

The gasket under the AC is a 1" thick foam that fits around the 14" by 14" hole in the roof the AC fits into. The AC unit just rests on the top of this gasket, compressing it in place by long bolts that go through to the ceiling. If the gasket is old and no longer springy, it won't seal tight against the roof anymore. You can try tightening the long bolts to see if that helps; sometimes it does.

You can get to the bolts from inside the coach; remove the plastic cover on the ceiling (clean the filters while you have this down).

You should be able to see the 4 long bolts at the sides of the square hole that goes up on the roof.

If they have play in them, tighten them just until you feel resistance -should be no more than 1/4 inch. If you tighten them all the way, they totally compress your gasket and ruin the seal anyway.

If tightening the bolts doesn't fix the leak, come back and I'll give you more detailed directions on replacing the gasket.

If you haven't already done so, you'll want to clean the coils and straighten any bent fins while you're working on your AC unit, it will cool much better.

Check the drain for leaves, debris , mud daubers nests, etc.
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:22 AM   #12
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I have 2 small bubble levels mounted in my cab; one on the dash in front of me (for side-to-side reading) and one on the door right next to me (for front-to-rear reading). That way, I can watch them as I pull up onto the leveling blocks and stop exactly when I'm level.
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:33 PM   #13
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Nobody mentioned being level to get good sewer draining. Found this out the hard way on my first trip this year with new to me RV. I use 7000lbs scissor jacks and a bottle jack to lift to level. The scissors are to hard to crank up much past ground contacting. Bought them on E-bay.
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:59 AM   #14
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I use 7000lbs scissor jacks and a bottle jack to lift to level. The scissors are to hard to crank up much past ground contacting

Some folks modify a crank handle for the scissor jacks and use an 18v cordless drill to raise and lower the jacks.
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