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Old 08-06-2015, 04:10 PM   #15
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got another question , the rear anti sway bar is a 1 1/2", the front anti sway bar is 1 3/8" , so I would not think I need new sway bars, but since this MH is a 1998, maybe the bushings in both of these needs replacing. Which would be the better of the two to replace, standard rubber or poly? and I would say that the age of these bushings are just like not having any. could be the cause of my problem
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:32 PM   #16
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If you think you have after market sway bars, double check the new bushings you get are the correct size. My original rear bar was 1 1/8 diameter.


Poly bushings will help a lot, compared to worn out rubber ones.
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:50 PM   #17
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got another question , the rear anti sway bar is a 1 1/2", the front anti sway bar is 1 3/8" , so I would not think I need new sway bars, but since this MH is a 1998, maybe the bushings in both of these needs replacing. Which would be the better of the two to replace, standard rubber or poly? and I would say that the age of these bushings are just like not having any. could be the cause of my problem
I would get poly. Have you checked your rear leafs. I replaced mine on my class A and made a noticeable difference in driving the beast.
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:45 AM   #18
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When I am trying to figure out a problem (hard for me) I never quit, So this morning I was back under the front end (with help of 3 or 4 other campers) . last year I had a complete front end redone and new bushings , upper and lower ball joints, and the guy working on it replaced the stabilizer. I really never thought much about it at the time except it seemed awfully small, kind of like a shock on a tiny car. So I looked this morning and I think that's about all it is, but at least the old brackets are still on it looks like. I believe I had a Safe-T-Plus on it before cause I do know it was much larger and sliver color. Probably been on the MH since new in 1998. Another clue that this is just a piece of junk is that the cost was $65.00 and black in color. I seen something like this at Auto Zone for $29.00 or less since then. This could be my trouble.
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:52 AM   #19
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Have you had the MH weighed ? What are your tire pressures ?
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:28 AM   #20
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thanks guys for the input. I have had new balljoints and a total front end rebuild including steering box, all new shocks all around, new brakes, calipers, I had the alignment done same time plus 6 new tires. They were suppose to set the castor + the factory setting. I don't know what the setting was when this was done. I am going to find the specs sheet where the alignment was done but I believe it was set like this...LH +5.3 degrees, RH + 5.5 degrees. I believe this came from something I read on an earlier posting. But this was all done around 2500 miles ago and the tires has no wear on inner or outter edges no feathering. But when a truck passes I can tell it, maybe because before this I had a 34 dt Montana 5"er and a 350 ford dulley and never had a problem in all the years as a full timer. This is my first class C and really hate to drive it because of the wondering, the coach I like, has enough room for wife and I. When I get back to Manchester Tn, I will take it back to the guys that did the work an alignment to see what they say. They should know how to do alignments for they work on all motorhomes, tractor trailers and all cars and trucks. I just know I cannot live with this kind of driving sure is no pleasure "getting" there.


I would put sumo's on it ... that's what I just did on my E450

made a world of differance
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