Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class C Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-14-2014, 08:40 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
shawnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
Another bunk rebuild.

Hello all!

I just purchased a 97 Tioga Montara (24ft). It has leaked over the bunk area and has significant rot. I knew this when I bought it and the price was reflected in the work that needed to be done. Destruction has just started, but I have been doing a fair amount of research on how to go about the rebuild.

I have not started peeling away any fiberglass yet, just removing the rotten crap from the inside. I am planning on stripping it bare and doing a complete rebuild. I'm not planning on replacing any of the windows in the bunk area.

Questions:

The bunk floor is a wood frame work with the insulation (Styrofoam) sandwiched between 2 thin layers of plywood. Should I replace it with the same type of "sandwich", or can I just use a sheet of 3/4" plywood? I'm a rather large fella (270lbs) and want it to be as strong as possible.

The front window is definitely going away. Is there any reason to keep the side windows? Does anybody use them?

Any suggestions at all are welcome!
__________________

__________________
shawnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 10-15-2014, 05:11 PM   #2
Community Administrator
 
JohnRR's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP"
Posts: 16,939

Good luck with your project and don't forget pictures.
__________________

__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L W24
08 14 Lincoln MKX AWD
See My RV Upgrades
JohnRR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 05:35 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
Solo Rvers Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 161
Shawn,

Welcome!

My over cab bunk was redone before I bought my C. The front window was removed but the side windows were reinstalled. I'm happy with that situation. A little natural light up there is helpful.

Since I sleep in the overhead bunk the cross ventilation is great. If you always have hookups for air conditioning that's not an issue. I also leave those windows open in parking lots if no rain is expected. They're too high and too small for a casual thief to use but help the roof vents keep things cool.

Unless there's a really good reason, I'd put the floor back together the way it was originally built.

Good Luck,
mangy dog
__________________
mangy dog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 05:07 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 387
Take lots of pictures so you can get it back together

(don't ask....)
__________________
Bill Lynch
wblynch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 06:52 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
shawnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
Destruction begins step 1

Here it is before starting. 1997 / 60,000 miles / $2700



Bunk corners before:



Bunk corners after:




Continued...
__________________
shawnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 06:56 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
shawnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
Destruction stage 2:

Started tearing off the front bunk area completely:



Removing the "base" bunk board:


Removed:


Cut out & removed sides:




Removing front fiberglass & window:


__________________
shawnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 07:01 PM   #7
Community Administrator
 
JohnRR's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP"
Posts: 16,939
It's great watching other people work.
__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L W24
08 14 Lincoln MKX AWD
See My RV Upgrades
JohnRR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 07:06 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
shawnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
Steel framework is significantly rusted, but feels solid:



Steel cleaned up (bad news):




The current plan is to weld up an internal framework with 1" square tubing to fit just inside the perimeter of the existing rusted steel frame. The new one will have a vertical piece at the back connecting the top and bottom pieces.

It should be where the red lines are:


I am going to "over build" the hell out of this. I still haven't decided if I am going to wrap it in "filon", or just fiberglass it myself. I have done a fair amount of fiberglass work on boats in the past, and if I glass it myself, there shouldn't be any seams to worry about.

Updates to come as I keep working on it.
__________________
shawnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 07:29 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 471
Being that rust breeds rust, I would be more inclined to remove that old framing. But since you are keeping it, you might fill the inside with expanding foam which might help a little with strength.
__________________
HuntingHawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 07:37 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 471
The wind & rain that front window catches going down the highway is why it becomes such a problem. And normally severe damage before knowing it had leaked.
JMO, but I would want those side windows just for fresh air if I were sleeping up there.
__________________
HuntingHawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 08:13 PM   #11
Junior Member
 
shawnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuntingHawk View Post
The wind & rain that front window catches going down the highway is why it becomes such a problem. And normally severe damage before knowing it had leaked.
JMO, but I would want those side windows just for fresh air if I were sleeping up there.
I do plan on putting both side windows back in. I can imagine it getting pretty stuffy up there in the summer without any air movement.
__________________
shawnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 08:25 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
LarrytheBear's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,199
I would be concerned about rust in other places on the house frame and chassis also.
Great picture documentation of an interesting project. Much more than I would ever attempt.
__________________
Larry and Prissy Sharp
2006 Allegro Bay 37DB
2012 Toyota Yaris
LarrytheBear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 10:34 PM   #13
Community Administrator
 
JohnRR's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP"
Posts: 16,939
Since your familiar with fiber glass how about cutting out a plywood frame, glue two sheets of 3/4" marine grade together for the frame work then covering it with a single sheet of fiber glass and resin instead of steel then proceed with the shell.
__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L W24
08 14 Lincoln MKX AWD
See My RV Upgrades
JohnRR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2014, 08:01 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
tim myers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 890
I have heard of problems with filling metal tubing with foam as the foam attracts and holds moisture. Best to weld in new steel. Better yet aluminum. YMMV
__________________

__________________
tim myers is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Vista Drop Down Bunk & Queen Bed Comfort? irenenjulius Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 14 03-12-2015 11:58 PM
2013 Fleetwood Excursion 33A -now DIY bunk model! RVMeister Class A Motorhome Discussions 15 09-25-2014 11:07 PM
Overhead bunk being considered Mrfoto Tiffin Motorhomes Owners Forum 0 09-05-2014 04:29 PM
Fleetwood Excursion question: mattress for overhead bunk? 1943D18 Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 0 08-18-2014 08:03 PM
Wow ! Two 2014 King Aire Bunk Bed Floor Plan Vlady Daddy Newmar Owner's Forum 5 03-10-2014 11:32 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.