Another bunk rebuild.

[shawnr]

Hello all!

I just purchased a 97 Tioga Montara (24ft). It has leaked over the bunk area and has significant rot. I knew this when I bought it and the price was reflected in the work that needed to be done. Destruction has just started, but I have been doing a fair amount of research on how to go about the rebuild.

I have not started peeling away any fiberglass yet, just removing the rotten crap from the inside. I am planning on stripping it bare and doing a complete rebuild. I'm not planning on replacing any of the windows in the bunk area.

Questions:

The bunk floor is a wood frame work with the insulation (Styrofoam) sandwiched between 2 thin layers of plywood. Should I replace it with the same type of "sandwich", or can I just use a sheet of 3/4" plywood? I'm a rather large fella (270lbs) and want it to be as strong as possible.

The front window is definitely going away. Is there any reason to keep the side windows? Does anybody use them?

Any suggestions at all are welcome!

[JohnRR]

Good luck with your project and don't forget pictures.

[mangy dog]

Shawn,

Welcome!

My over cab bunk was redone before I bought my C. The front window was removed but the side windows were reinstalled. I'm happy with that situation. A little natural light up there is helpful.

Since I sleep in the overhead bunk the cross ventilation is great. If you always have hookups for air conditioning that's not an issue. I also leave those windows open in parking lots if no rain is expected. They're too high and too small for a casual thief to use but help the roof vents keep things cool.

Unless there's a really good reason, I'd put the floor back together the way it was originally built.

Good Luck,
mangy dog

[wblynch]

Take lots of pictures so you can get it back together

(don't ask....)

[shawnr]

Here it is before starting. 1997 / 60,000 miles / $2700



Bunk corners before:



Bunk corners after:




Continued...

[shawnr]

Started tearing off the front bunk area completely:



Removing the "base" bunk board:


Removed:


Cut out & removed sides:




Removing front fiberglass & window:

[JohnRR]

It's great watching other people work.

[shawnr]

Steel framework is significantly rusted, but feels solid:



Steel cleaned up (bad news):




The current plan is to weld up an internal framework with 1" square tubing to fit just inside the perimeter of the existing rusted steel frame. The new one will have a vertical piece at the back connecting the top and bottom pieces.

It should be where the red lines are:


I am going to "over build" the hell out of this. I still haven't decided if I am going to wrap it in "filon", or just fiberglass it myself. I have done a fair amount of fiberglass work on boats in the past, and if I glass it myself, there shouldn't be any seams to worry about.

Updates to come as I keep working on it.

[HuntingHawk]

Being that rust breeds rust, I would be more inclined to remove that old framing. But since you are keeping it, you might fill the inside with expanding foam which might help a little with strength.

[HuntingHawk]

The wind & rain that front window catches going down the highway is why it becomes such a problem. And normally severe damage before knowing it had leaked.
JMO, but I would want those side windows just for fresh air if I were sleeping up there.

[shawnr]

Originally Posted by HuntingHawk

The wind & rain that front window catches going down the highway is why it becomes such a problem. And normally severe damage before knowing it had leaked.
JMO, but I would want those side windows just for fresh air if I were sleeping up there.

I do plan on putting both side windows back in. I can imagine it getting pretty stuffy up there in the summer without any air movement.

[LarrytheBear]

I would be concerned about rust in other places on the house frame and chassis also.
Great picture documentation of an interesting project. Much more than I would ever attempt.

[JohnRR]

Since your familiar with fiber glass how about cutting out a plywood frame, glue two sheets of 3/4" marine grade together for the frame work then covering it with a single sheet of fiber glass and resin instead of steel then proceed with the shell.

[tim myers]

I have heard of problems with filling metal tubing with foam as the foam attracts and holds moisture. Best to weld in new steel. Better yet aluminum. YMMV