Community Forums

Ron Dittmer · 11-01-2019, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jyrocharlie

Mine was in a 2000 class A, it had 102,000 and used a quart of oil every 800 miles, I opted for a new crate motor, $10,300 later we were on the way back home. MSC ford Memphis.

Did the new motor include the heads? Was it fully dressed with peripherals, for example the intake? Or just a new engine block?

Jyrocharlie · 11-01-2019, 10:37 AM

crate motor, I didn't see it, It was minus the intake and manifolds. water pump heads pan all was new and factory assembled.

avfordguy · 11-01-2019, 02:34 PM

Ford "Long Block" comes complete minus intake and exhaust manifolds, alternator,ac compressor tensioner,clutch fan and serpentine belt, and motor mounts and flex plate. Those are transferred from your "old engine"

Kraken · 11-03-2019, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer

Well well well......

This is an interesting twist to this discussion. The antifreeze/coolant getting into the engine oil from an unrelated component.

I never knew engine coolant passed through the remote-mounted oil filter. The next time I do an oil change, I will study the area more closely.

Yes me too. I wonder if a permanent bypass mod might be worth considering, or if overheating could be an issue.

sibe · 11-03-2019, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kraken

Yes me too. I wonder if a permanent bypass mod might be worth considering, or if overheating could be an issue.

In this case verify the problem,,

In my older class C 94 460, I had a melt down.. blew a by pass hose, had no choice to run it a rest area becasue of a constructon zone..
I replaced all hoses but 6 month later saw drip near the block,,I was loosing a bit of coolant but could no find...

It was either that oil cooler or block or water pump gasket,...

Ended up being the timing chain cover to block gasket... The heat cooked it...
Any way I was told 9 different stories of that oil cooler.. a local ford rebuilder that did fleet work on cube vans said he saw little to no longevity issues with or with out.. He thinks it was more about keeping the oil at a more consistant temperature and a faster warm up of the oil etc...

Well I did the water pump/ new cover / timing chain while i was there and removed that mess of the cooler and replaced it with a angle oil filter adapter from Ford Motorsport..
IMO I had a tow fleet with a 460, 429, 370, all the same design, never had the oil cooler .. Ran those thing ballz to the wallz got over 120k+ out of all ..
The chassis fell apart before the motors..

You need a good mechanic to chase this but that cost time/hours and if it is a bad head... ???..

Sometimes you will burn the antifreeze,, and after a hard run and cooldown you can get some coolant order out the pipe , it takes a while to get into the oil.. the cylinder seal will have to degrade or the leak is nasty..

sibe · 11-03-2019, 03:54 PM

i was snooping... this i was not aware of in the v10

Fail-safe cooling system is designed to help protect the engine from potential damage due to a loss of coolant. If the engine overheats, it will automatically switch from 10-cylinder operation to alternating 5-cylinder operation. The vehicle will continue to operate, but with limited engine power. This system allows the driver to travel a short distance to obtain service or reach a service facility if the engine overheats. The distance that can be traveled depends upon vehicle load, outside temperature and road conditions

The have few issues,

Coil packs and plugs are most common and the exhaust leaks......

RRR · 11-03-2019, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer

Well well well......

This is an interesting twist to this discussion. The antifreeze/coolant getting into the engine oil from an unrelated component.

I never knew engine coolant passed through the remote-mounted oil filter. The next time I do an oil change, I will study the area more closely.

And while you are looking check the water hoses to the cooler. Both my V-10's, (one in a Class C and my current one) the hoses were rubbing on the crossmember (?) Some split duct to protect it.

theoldwizard · 11-03-2019, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avfordguy

Ford "Long Block" comes complete minus intake and exhaust manifolds, alternator,ac compressor tensioner,clutch fan and serpentine belt, and motor mounts and flex plate. Those are transferred from your "old engine"

I would spend the money on new exhaust manifolds, tensioner and belt !

TripleClamp · 11-04-2019, 01:24 PM

Well, the salvage yard will give us $5K for it. Think I can get more on Craigslist for a DIY? The problem is, there's probably more DIY'ers for non engine related item repairs than engine repairs. I did check, it's blowing white smoke out the exhaust.

avfordguy · 11-07-2019, 09:45 PM

It's a tough call , dont know if the rv is free and clear or you owe $ ,sounds to me with reading the codes it ran lean for a good period of time, if it were mine, find a good ford tech that will moonlight, two reman heads, and the address the fuel delivery problem, even with 115k miles its rebuild able

Jcf0527 · 11-08-2019, 05:22 AM

I had a 2011 and one of the pistons shattered on I-26 westbound in a South Carolina. Ford put a new Long Block in it under warranty - took four months and the dealer said the bill would have been about 12k for the motor and labor if I had to pay for it.

HJLowell · 11-08-2019, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jcf0527

I had a 2011 and one of the pistons shattered on I-26 westbound in a South Carolina. Ford put a new Long Block in it under warranty - took four months and the dealer said the bill would have been about 12k for the motor and labor if I had to pay for it.

And by reading this forum you would think only DPs crashed and failed.

From my observation mile for mile its the other way around over the years.

Waiter21 · 11-08-2019, 07:13 AM

One of the advantages of replacing the engine: You know yo have a new / reliable engine for many years to come.

How much would a replacement MH cost, and you will have the unknown factor of the engine.

I've thought through this scenerio in my MH. My MH is in very good condition and we like it. I would most likely replace the engine, and maybe even have the transmission rebuilt while I had it apart. If I spent 6-10 k on engine and transmission, I would have a MH that should easily run another 10 years.

sibe · 11-08-2019, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Waiter21

One of the advantages of replacing the engine: You know yo have a new / reliable engine for many years to come.

How much would a replacement MH cost, and you will have the unknown factor of the engine.

I've thought through this scenerio in my MH. My MH is in very good condition and we like it. I would most likely replace the engine, and maybe even have the transmission rebuilt while I had it apart. If I spent 6-10 k on engine and transmission, I would have a MH that should easily run another 10 years.

good point if the rest of the unit is good..

Personally I am not afraid of large repairs, mainly I do myself LOL

Still if RV is good at 100K+ and a new motor at 7-10K will get you 5 more good years, it may be a cheap way to go..