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Old 10-28-2019, 07:35 AM   #1
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Question Blown Head Gasket / Cracked Cylinder Head V10 E450 Cost?

Diagnostics came back as our last trip we had to stop every hour and add coolant. Hooked up pressure tester to where cap went, testing with engine on and off, normal. No hose leaks. Engine however was vibrating. You can actually feel the slight vibration sitting at idle in the driver seat. 2011, 117K miles, E450 V10.

* Engine light on, Engine vibration, mechanic said coolant in crankcase.
* Coolant loss
* Blowing smoke out exhaust.

Said either cracked cylinder or blown head gasket. What we talking here in rough estimates? Any ideas. We are thinking about just selling as is and parting ways.

1. New Engine; $6K-8K engine and labor ???
2. Head gasket replacement $3K-$4K ???
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:48 AM   #2
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:06 AM   #3
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First of all, take your truck to an auto parts store and have them read the ODB codes. If your check engine is on then there is a code which give you some clues on what needs to be looked at first. Post what they find. There are enough mechanics on this site that can give you some guidance.



A blown head gasket will cause water leak into crankcase and will smoke. The smoke should be white (steam), normally when starting up after sitting awhile. Avoid driving with water in oil. The oil will froth and turn the oil a light color, like mud. Check your oil yourself to determine if your mechanic is giving you the straight scoop.



Pressure testing the coolant system on a cold engine might not show a bad head gasket. While the engine is running the pressure across a gasket will be closer to 300 psi and might not show with a coolant system pressure test.



Have the plugs pulled to determine what side has a problem before you start pulling the engine apart. We have owned Ford's for over 30 years and don't recall a blown head gasket or cracked head on any V engines.
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Old 10-28-2019, 09:08 AM   #4
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A skip in the engine and using coolant is a sure sign of a cracked head or bad head gasket. I've only seen a couple cracked V-10 heads but these were on trucks hauling large trailers usually overloaded.
With the CEL on a scan should tell you which cylinder(s) is or are at fault. Removing the spark plug from the cylinder might reveal signs of coolant on the plug electrodes. If not the engine should be turned over until both valves are closed and air pressure applied to the cylinder with the radiator cap and or coolant recovery tank cap removed. I think you are going to see coolant coming out of the system.
A compression test may or may not be adequate to isolate your problem. This is especially true with a cylinder head crack. These cracks tend to close up when the engine is cold and open up when hot.
You also should check the engine oil for a milky look or bubbles on the dipstick which would indicate coolant is entering the oil pan.
To me it sounds like you or someone will be pulling at least one head to get a visual of where the problem lies. If you don't see evidence of a cracked head or a bad head gasket then it's off to an automotive machine shop to have the head Magna-Fluxed, pressure tested and the deck checked for straightness.
There are also test kits available to test for combustion particles in the coolant. This has to be done before any engine disassembly so the coolant you are testing doesn't get contaminated before you test it.
Before anyone could quote a repair price they would need to do a complete diagnosis which would require disassembly. You will be responsible for the diagnosis costs. IMO, worst case would be in the neighborhood of $2000 for a remanufactured head, gaskets, fluids and labor unless you decide to do both heads and gaskets while the engine is partially apart.
Parts and labor prices vary from area to area.
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Old 10-28-2019, 04:01 PM   #5
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If the house and chassis are otherwise in great shape, (2011 with 117K miles) it would be worth the $2000 to get it worthy again. I wonder what a good deal would be for new crate V10 engine with 2-valve heads would cost plus installation. $6k-$8k sounds steep. Maybe it's because it's a motor home, not a van......unable to utilize a lift.

As others stated, you want to make sure the problem was diagnosed properly. If you have white steam-smoke coming out the tail pipe, that is a strong indicator your problem is ~$2000 serious.

FWIW, I had a small crack in my old 2.4L Toyota motor home engine head. I got a lot of years and miles from adding the dissolving pellet sealer (Bars Stop Leak) in the radiator. The particles float around in the cooling system, getting lodged into the crack, plugging the problem. But it seems your situation is worse, maybe too much for Bars. Still it might be worth a try.
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:05 PM   #6
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To start with there are two oil coolers on the v10, cylinder miss does indicate head area, if oil looks like a chocolate milk shake then run engine with coolant cap off, have tock do a co sniff of the coolant tank while running, head gasket failures are pretty rare on v10's
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:08 PM   #7
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Engine comes out through the front, remove grille, ac condendor,radiator and upper radiator support, if you can find a independent to make the swap, you can get a over the counter reman from a ford dealer, and yes it comes with a warranty
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:11 PM   #8
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The coolant in the pan and milage would make me lean towards engine replacement. Coolant is very hard on engine bearings. Also E series head removal means removing engine from chassis. I know you can sneak the heads out but the preferred method is out of chassis.
Always easy to spend someone else's money.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:43 AM   #9
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Thanks for the quick replies!

>>>The smoke should be white (steam), normally when starting up after sitting awhile.
Yes, this is what is happening but I can verify. I typically didn't see smoke coming out the exhaust before. The oil when we checked it didn't look to bad but it hasn't been driven. Just driven less than 5 miles to the shop.

>>>I wonder what a good deal would be for new crate V10 engine with 2-valve heads would cost plus installation. $6k-$8k sounds steep.
I just threw that number out there. I think I based it on an V10 Engine on Amazon for 5K with a core charge plus maybe 24 hours to put it in.
I have no idea what a new engine costs plus how long it takes to swap one out.

>>>If you have white steam-smoke coming out the tail pipe, that is a strong indicator your problem is ~$2000 serious.
I'll start it up today and get a video and picture.

I'll call the place to see about the codes but nothing was put on the invoice, it just said coolant in the crankcase. We do have an Advance Auto Parts two minutes way (Stop by your local store for free engine code scanning on most OBD II vehicles). I check tonight.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:44 AM   #10
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Call the shop. These are the codes reported, a lot of them, whew:

P0148-00 Fuel Delivery Error
P0171-00 System Too Lean- Bank 1
P0174-00 System Too Lean- Bank 2
P0136-00 Heated O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
P1285-00 Cylinder Head Overtemperature Sensed
P1299-00 Cylinder Head Overtemperature Protection Active
P2197-00 Oxygen sensor is fluctuating outside its optimal range - This code indicates that the engine could be running lean or that there is a fault in the A/F O2 sensor

On V-type engines, code P0171 is often accompanied by code P0174, which refers to the same problem, but on Bank 2.

If the engine is in good condition, and there are no exhaust leaks, engine vacuum leaks, or misfires present, all sensors are working as designed, and all oxygen sensors and catalytic converter(s) are in closed-loop operation, the PCM uses input data from the oxygen sensor(s) located upstream of the catalytic converter to alter the pulse widths (ON time) of the fuel injectors. Altering the pulse width of the injectors (as required) has the effect of either adding fuel to the mixture, or subtracting fuel from the mixture to maintain a 14.7: 1 ratio between air and fuel.

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Old 10-31-2019, 01:18 PM   #11
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Start with checking fuel pressure, cyl overyemp was from running lean under heavy load, engine pcm went into protect mode,it will shut off injectors on one bank and pump air, then it will do the same on the other bank, clear codes since you have it recorded, and drive to see if they come back, as I stated from the start is fuel pressure.
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Old 10-31-2019, 04:43 PM   #12
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I had the same problem v10 blown head gasket

Mine was in a 2000 class A, it had 102,000 and used a quart of oil every 800 miles, I opted for a new crate motor, $10,300 later we were on the way back home. MSC ford Memphis.
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Old 10-31-2019, 04:48 PM   #13
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common problem with V10:

The oil cooler / heat exchanger on the left side. The thing your oil filter mounts to. These develop leaks and dump coolant into the oil. If you want to verify this, disconnect the two coolant lines from the heat exchanger and use a coupling to connect them together.
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiter21 View Post
common problem with V10:

The oil cooler / heat exchanger on the left side. The thing your oil filter mounts to. These develop leaks and dump coolant into the oil. If you want to verify this, disconnect the two coolant lines from the heat exchanger and use a coupling to connect them together.
Well well well......

This is an interesting twist to this discussion. The antifreeze/coolant getting into the engine oil from an unrelated component.

I never knew engine coolant passed through the remote-mounted oil filter. The next time I do an oil change, I will study the area more closely.
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