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Old 09-23-2018, 01:16 PM   #1
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Charge wire for the toad

Hi all, I am setting up our Hyundai Veloster as our toad. Got all the Blue OX hardware done and am starting the wiring. There is a pin on the rv side of the 7 pin connector that has 12 v on it when rv is running. Can I run that to the toad battery to keep it charged while towing ? I'm sure I'll need something to offset the drain from parasitic and break controller loads. Thanks !!
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Old 09-23-2018, 01:20 PM   #2
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5winds-

This link shows the standard 7-pin connector wiring. The 12V charge line is in the one o'clock position when looking into the coach's connector. Is that where you measured the 12V?
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Old 09-23-2018, 01:30 PM   #3
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Yup, that's the one...
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Old 09-23-2018, 01:38 PM   #4
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I use the RVi Toad Battery Charger
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Old 09-23-2018, 02:20 PM   #5
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Yes you can use that charge wire to keep toads battery charged. Best to use it thru a toad battery charger as was posted. The RVI Toad Battery Charger as mentioned is what I use---same set up as you plan on running.
6 years now and still working as new.
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Old 09-23-2018, 04:31 PM   #6
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5winds-

As a minimum, a charge line should have a fuse close to the battery at each end. 15A is "the usual." Some have used self-resetting circuit breakers. They work well, but have been implicated in one toad fire reported on iRV2.

Sometimes a diode is called-for, but not often. Our coach needs a diode.

A device like the RVI Toad Battery Charger or the LSL Toad Charge is optional. I installed one on our coach. It provides the diode function.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:21 PM   #7
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Just as "live free or die" (Mark) said, I have been using a charge line within a 7 pin cable, no single issue in 6 years. 15A fuse on each end to protect the wire, and a diode right before the connector to the toad battery. All is good.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:24 PM   #8
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Since the charge voltage is present you do not need to isolate the toad battery. I changed my charge line to be hot all the time. My rv is a monster with plenty of batteries and systems so I do not worry about running the RV down under any conditions.\

My toad is a power hungry pig and without a good charge line the battery is dead in a day. Yes the battery is just fine folks. It is a Ford Edge Limited with keyless ignition. It just likes to keep things alive when towing.

I highly recommend a fuse or a breaker near the toad battery of course.

The breaker on my toad charge line could have saved my vehicle today as we discuss this. My heavy duty charge plug actually decided to break off the pin of the charge line connector at the toad. It did not short to any metal or at least there is no evidence of it. Had it done so the breaker would have protected me.

The toad battery was dead so the break happened early in the day. A good reason for an even closer inspection when we stop for breaks. I do a walk around but somehow missed it.

All is good but my tools, voltmeter, and small torch saved the day.

Cheers, have fun.
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:33 AM   #9
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5winds-

As a minimum, a charge line should have a fuse close to the battery at each end. 15A is "the usual." Some have used self-resetting circuit breakers. They work well, but have been implicated in one toad fire reported on iRV2.

Sometimes a diode is called-for, but not often. Our coach needs a diode.

A device like the RVI Toad Battery Charger or the LSL Toad Charge is optional. I installed one on our coach. It provides the diode function.
Mark, what determines whether a coach needs a diode or not?
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:35 AM   #10
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Just as "live free or die" (Mark) said...
Thanks for translating that! I have been looking at that screen name for quite a while trying to figure it out.
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Old 09-24-2018, 07:03 AM   #11
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Mark, what determines whether a coach needs a diode or not?
It depends on whether or not you want to leave the umbilical connected when the coach is shut off. If you disconnect, no need for a diode.

If you keep the coach and toad connected (we do), then it depends on the circuit. If it is ignition-switched, and the charge line is the only wire on the circuit, a diode is not needed. If it's not ignition-switched, then someone may want a diode in the circuit, to keep the coach from pulling starting current from the toad battery.

Or. it's coach-specific. Certain years of Monaco coaches (including ours) provide the charge line 12V from a bus off an ignition-switched relay. Applying 12V to the toad end of the charge line will supply 12V to any of the other circuits attached to the same bus. For those who may connect their coach-toad umbilicals before starting the coach, or leave their umbilicals connected overnight, this could be a problem. A diode at the toad end fixes this problem.

See this post for a diagram of the problem.
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:33 PM   #12
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5winds-

As a minimum, a charge line should have a fuse close to the battery at each end. 15A is "the usual." Some have used self-resetting circuit breakers. They work well, but have been implicated in one toad fire reported on iRV2.

Sometimes a diode is called-for, but not often. Our coach needs a diode.

A device like the RVI Toad Battery Charger or the LSL Toad Charge is optional. I installed one on our coach. It provides the diode function.


That LSL toad charge connections are a piece of junk. Half the time I would have a dead battery. Good product but crappie connectors.
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Old 09-25-2018, 05:32 AM   #13
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I used the RVI Brake charge controller. It comes with everything you need plus there is an indicator light so you know the connection is good.
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:34 AM   #14
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And very reasonable priced but this one is eaven cheaper.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Brake...-p/19-3252.htm
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