Class C in Cold Weather

[Randor707]

I new here. Have driven a rented Class C on several trips, but never in cold weather. Thinking about buying a nice 2005 Forest River Sunseeker 26' but wondering what kind of winterizing is needed for a December trip to PA. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Rand

[ThePowells]

Welcome to the forum.

That makes for difficult answers with hundreds of variables. The first is ambient temps. If above freezing, nothing really. If below, then the amount of time below freezing, and the below / above cycles and your coach's exposure. My first concern would be black / gray tanks as they are often exposed and have little to no protection. Making sure that they are drained and have antifreeze in the bottom and the gate valves. The problem here is that the more stuff that goes into the tanks, the more diluted the antifreeze.
Second is your plumbing that runs beneath the floor. Some of it may be running in an non insulated area and is exposed. Either draining the lines and blowing air through them or using antifreeze. Regardless, if you have the outside shower nozzle, remove it and the hose and maybe put a little insulation inside that door, but remember that the more compressed the insulation, the lower the effectiveness. Another idea is to run the generator and use a pair of 1500 watt oil heaters with the wheels removed and I have small chains (think florescent light fixture) that loop around the top of the fins to steady it. You can run two on or one on high along with your coach furnace. You will also need to prop open the bathroom and cabinet doors. My furnace is under my stove so I have ambient heating under my kitchen sink and around my water heater.
Last is the fresh water tank. Mine is under the bed and well protected and if your is the same no worries.

Basically the travelling is no different from sitting except that doors need to be propped open and heaters secured.

[JONWisconsin]

It depends how cold is in December. You could not face problems or you could. Also, it depends where are you staying. If you are staying in it, and the furnace is on, concerns diminish. If you are on a place with hook up, some people recommend to keep the gray open with a faucet dripping. You will need to keep some antifreeze in the black tank at all times, and use it. As the prior member responded, there are a lot of variables.

[Harvard]

Before you let the bathroom vanity drip all night make sure it DOES NOT drain to the black tank. It is very common this is the case.

Also, if you try to drip all night the drip may not clear the plastic slinky before it freezes.

Another thing, you may find it hard to find an open dump station in the north during the winter EVEN if your knife valves are not frozen solid.

[Loggenrock]

I'd be more concerned about subjecting the underside of the rig to road salt/etc than anything else. Lots of stuff under there that would be damaged by corrosion! Lots of road salt in the east as compared to Colorado. Easy way to use a rig in winter is to simply winterize it before the trip.

[JONWisconsin]

I don't do it, but lots of people travel during winter in their RVs.

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by Randor707

I new here. Have driven a rented Class C on several trips, but never in cold weather. Thinking about buying a nice 2005 Forest River Sunseeker 26' but wondering what kind of winterizing is needed for a December trip to PA. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Rand

It depends on your RV. It needs to be an all season or four season to consider using the water system when temperatures are below freezing for more than even a few hours a day. If it isn’t, winterize and don’t use the water system.

Those that allege four season vary greatly. My Arctic Foxes were great...I used the full water system in them below zero many times. All of the tanks and valves were in heated spaces.

My new Leprechaun Class C, despite dual pane windows and “ camp cozy” four season package, pretty much sucks. It has tank heaters and dual valves and essentially no instructions on how to use and what type of performance to expect. So I winterize when in sustained temps below freezing rather than risk it. The design is so crappy you need to take out screws to access the drain valves!

[GoneToTheDog]

Pennsylvania? In December? Sunseeker? Easy answer.....No!

[Randor707]

Originally Posted by GoneToTheDog

Pennsylvania? In December? Sunseeker? Easy answer.....No!

This is why I love iRV2 forums. A newbie like me can expect concise and reliable responses to any questions.


I understand very well. If we go to PA in December, we'll drive the pick-up.



Thanks, Rand

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by Randor707

This is why I love iRV2 forums. A newbie like me can expect concise and reliable responses to any questions.


I understand very well. If we go to PA in December, we'll drive the pick-up.



Thanks, Rand

I didn’t mean to encourage that response. Just to clarify you shouldn’t plan on using the water system.

Your RV is still a fine place to sleep and cook and eat, and hang out. Much cheaper than hotels...even if you stay in a commercial RV park. They all have heated restrooms.

I’ve had many good trips under those circumstances,

[twinboat]

I have a older, 2000 Gulfstream, class C and have camped in northern NJ in snow and freezing temps. It was late November, so the temps wouldn't stay below freezing consistently.

The only water fill was a freeze proof faucet on the bath house, but I had a few 75 ft pocket hoses, so I didn't need to move to it.

Everything that can freeze is in insulated compartments and heat, from the furnace, is ducted to them. The dump valves are insulated with only the cap protruding out the bottom of the waste tank compartment.

Take a look at what your thinking of buying and see it its built that way.
I wouldn't hesitate to use everything in mine at 20° temps, as long as I can run the gas furnace.

[mikeh2obury]

You picked a good company, our freelander 21 RS came with heated tanks and these folks will give you everything you need to know to succeed.