Class C or B+ boondocking

[chucklesg]

I want to down size from a 37' 5th and F350 to a Class C/B+ because I am tired of the expense of RV parks and "apartment" dwelling! But I want to be able to camp at NP, NF, BLM etc. All Class C/B+ seem very low to the ground, and I can imagine tearing of a exhaust pipe or worse. While being less than 30' is a plus, the Aspect I am seriously looking at is low, as are others. Are most boondocking locations and BLM with decent roads or are Class C/B+ just not made for this?

[tuffr2]

I would downsize to a 150/1500 series truck with a mild off road factory option package and a off road smallish travel trailer.

Like a Ram Rebel, F-150 FX-4, GM AT-4. I am not looking for an off road trailer but have seen several that are raised up 3" or 4"with off roading in mind. Get a Honda 2000 watt generator to work everything but the A/C unit. I will be looking at trailers all this week. I will try to get more info on 'off road' trailers.

Else get a light truck camper and 2020 Ford Tremor F-350 or F-350 FX-4 with the 7.3 gas engine.

Or go crazy off road and get a Ram Powerwagon.

[Taffeys]

Have you looked at small Class C's? We have a 23 1/2 foot C that has taken us anywhere we have wanted to go. We can't go rock-climbing in it but with DRWs and most of the weight on the backend it gets good traction. And if you think you'll need additional ground clearance lift-kits are available. If we want to go explore off-road we tow an old 4WD Samurai. Also, we can sleep four adults and have a "dry" bath; not like most B's we've looked at. YMMV.

[chucklesg]

I am looking at a 29’ Winnebago Aspect on the F450 chassis, but it is quite low and the tail pipe even lower! Hate to tear it or something else off in the Forest . I am not aware of lift kits???

[Ron Dittmer]

If you can afford one, consider a new (or used) Phoenix Cruiser with the Quigley 4x4 option. CLICK HERE to get to their website. Not just 4x4, but increased ground clearance to go with it. CLICK HERE to see some 4x4 Phoenix Cruisers. Any length, any floor plan will accommodate. There is a video to watch at the bottom of the pictures.

[Unicorn Driver]

Great thread,

[Tip10]

Or a Bengal Tiger....

http://www.tigervehicles.com/tiger-models/bengal/

[Phil G.]

Originally Posted by chucklesg

I want to down size from a 37' 5th and F350 to a Class C/B+ because I am tired of the expense of RV parks and "apartment" dwelling! But I want to be able to camp at NP, NF, BLM etc. All Class C/B+ seem very low to the ground, and I can imagine tearing of a exhaust pipe or worse. While being less than 30' is a plus, the Aspect I am seriously looking at is low, as are others. Are most boondocking locations and BLM with decent roads or are Class C/B+ just not made for this?

You can easily raise the ground clearance of most Class C motorhomes by retrofitting them with larger diameter tires than what comes "stock" on most of them.

This is a superior way (over a body lift) to increase ground clearance because it keeps overall vehicle center of gravity as low as possible while at the same time moving all critical suspension, drive, and coach undercarriage components higher above the ground right along with the coach lower wall edges and it's entrance step.

We have a small (24 foot) Itasca Class C based on the Ford E450 chassis. It's stock front wheel wells and steering components (as designed by Ford) and stock rear coach wheel wells (as designed by Winnebago) allow for much larger diameter tires, so several years ago I put 6 larger diameter tires on it and these larger tires have been fine in all aspects on road and off road. The speedometer reads about 1 1/2 MPH lower when cruising, but this is of course no big deal.

We take our Class C on gravel and dirt roads (in dry weather) whenever necessary for us to explore or camp as we please. It has great traction because of all the weight on the rear duals.

The rear duals are also great on rutted roads because they ride up higher onto the edges of the ruts - instead of slipping down into rough road tire ruts to endanger undercarriage components from the higher road center area between the ruts.

However, the particular design of our Class C also happens to place it's built-in generator, coach steps, coach plumbing, and storage tanks all mounted up high at about vehicle frame height ... so nothing is hanging down low to get damaged. The coach walls also sweep nicely up at the rear for a fairly decent clearance when crossing road dips - such as from shallow road washouts.

[chucklesg]

I did find a so. Cal company with engineered lift kits, 4” and 6”, with photos, and while quite expensive, it makes quite a difference.

What size tires did you change and how much height was gained?

I appreciate all the creative and helpful comments.

[DbleDutch]

We came from a small 5th to our present 24F. Our 5th was raised and rarely feared a high center. Yes, our Class C is lower and we watch our angles but travels the same backroads and campsites as our 5th did.
Main issue I have found is our Class C has way more places for mud to clump and hide than the 5th. A good hour with the pressure washer on the underside and most was gone. Yet on our next trip with heavy down pours, I heard clumps of mud washing loose and clattering to the pavement.

[Phil G.]

Originally Posted by chucklesg

I did find a so. Cal company with engineered lift kits, 4” and 6”, with photos, and while quite expensive, it makes quite a difference.

What size tires did you change and how much height was gained?

I appreciate all the creative and helpful comments.

I changed from the stock 225/75R16 tire size that comes on most Ford E350/E450 based Class C motorhomes to 215/85R16 tire size. This size has about a 1.2 inch larger diameter, so they raise everything about 0.6 inches -> shock mounts, rear differential, transmission, engine oil pan, front suspension components, coach sidewalls, coach entrance step, coach built-in generator, coach undercarriage plumbing, etc.. A body lift raises only some of these things.

My wife has a bad back, so I didn't want to raise the front step more than that for getting up into the cab. 235 - or maybe even 245 - size tires would have probably fit the wheel wells just fine and of course raised everything much higher.

[jrwpin]

We have a 29' Cambria-sister to the Aspect-and 90% of the time we camp in NP, NF, BLM, COE, etc. Have not had any trouble at all in getting in and out of those type places. Getting in and out of public places-gas stations, malls, etc- are more of a problem. Like your 5th wheel, you have to learn what you have. With a C/B+, you have to learn to enter sideways or at an angle and you won't drag your rear end. Also learn to make wide turns so you won't straddle a curb or shoulder. Love our Cambria/Aspect.

[CruiserTina]

I have a 33ft class C and the lowest point on ours is the doorway exit from the camper side door. The doorway bottom is only 9 inches from the ground. We've been driving it for only a few months but haven't scraped the bottom so far. Our challenge when it comes to uneven areas, is that ten feet of RV that's behind the rear duallys. Making sure I clear the tail end before the tires that are ten feet forward climb high enough to create an angle that scrapes the bumper. Bwah ha ha... so far so good. Had to back up and reposition a couple times but no scraping. I wouldn't mind taking it to an "established" and well used, off road area but I'm unlikely to do any trail blazing in it.

[chucklesg]

I continue to look at both Class C and Class,under 30', to boon dock and avoid the high dollar, overrated, and filled up private RV parks! The exhaust pipe and generator exhaust on Class C's appear darn close to the ground, like 4" or so.
Class A's are better. Plus the overhang on either can scrape if the ratio between the length and wheel base is less than .52.

Both A's and C's have advantages. But storage on C's is limited, while A's might be a bit heavier and harder on gas. Still not sure what the best vehicle for boon docking is!