Community Forums

scrapintina · 04-11-2014, 03:20 PM

We are new to RVing and are learning more each day. We have an issue though that I have not found an answer to.

If we are plugged in, the rv battery charges and does fine until it runs dead. When we are driving it does not charge at all. So today I have no battery to keep fridge going or stay generator. There's not enough juice to even run the panel lights or water pump. We've already driven 400 miles today so I've given up hope of it charging.

What do we need to check? My dad tested the battery and filled water, says battery is fine. It's a deep cycle and relatively new.

Thanks, Tina

87Rockwood · 04-11-2014, 03:37 PM

Welcome to the group! It will help all if we knew what your rv is-make/model/year...

scrapintina · 04-11-2014, 03:48 PM

It's a 2005 Four Winds Majestic 30 foot.

wb7auk · 04-11-2014, 03:56 PM

Either you have a relay that should connect the batteries together not working or in some cases I have found a knife switch near the main battery that has not been closed ie a manual switch.
If it has a manual switch remember to open it when parked so you do not
run the chassis battery down.

bearaboo · 04-11-2014, 04:00 PM

Sounds faulty battery isolator solenoid.. Located on fender in engine compartment. Easy to replace, just make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. Here is link to help you out

http://www.neon-john.net/RV/Electric...ion_relays.htm

bluepill · 04-11-2014, 04:17 PM

You mention running your batteries until they are dead. That should never be done. Do some searches on Battery discharge and educate yourself - it will save you money in the long run.

scrapintina · 04-11-2014, 05:04 PM

Well, we don't run it dead intentionally. Yesterday we left Utah and drove to Idaho. Battery running fridge and water pump only. Kids used lights the evening, and we kicked the furnace on. It only ran an hour before battery was dead. I feel like a battery should last longer, but also should have been charging while driving. So with 6 hours of drive time and what I see as minimal battery use but about 17 hours unplugged we are out of juice completely. Today we have 10 hrs driving in so far and 0 battery boost.

Mich F · 04-11-2014, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scrapintina

If we are plugged in, the rv battery charges and does fine until it runs dead.

When you are plugged in, and the rv battery is really charging, it shouldn't run dead.

Or did I not understand what you wrote?

scrapintina · 04-11-2014, 05:34 PM

When we are plugged in the coach battery receives a charge and holds it. We use it in travel: fridge, water pump, heat... Then battery is discharged and is not charging while driving.

TeJay · 04-11-2014, 05:53 PM

First of all in all RV's that we have had the fridge uses propane while traveling. There may be some electrical drain as well. I'd have to check a schematic to know for sure.

With the MH running what is the charge voltage on the coach engine battery?? It should be around 14-V.

What is the charge voltage on the house batteries?? It should also be over 13.6 volts. If not then a solenoid/ blown fuse or something is not allowing the converter to charge the coach batteries. Get it looked at unless you are capable of troubleshooting it your self.

TeJay

Mich F · 04-11-2014, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scrapintina

When we are plugged in the coach battery receives a charge and holds it. We use it in travel: fridge, water pump, heat... Then battery is discharged and is not charging while driving.

Thanks for clarifying. I did realize what you meant after reading your post #7.
You could have a bad house battery . Your 12V items might only be working because of the convertor. You can get the battery checked at many auto parts stores.

WOODYDEL · 04-15-2014, 09:28 AM

If your system is similar to the 2007 Hurricane we owned, there is a circuit breaker with a small black button which sticks out. That button is the reset.

The breaker was located at the battery control center. Thor conveniently faced the button away from me and out of sight.

If you allow the batteries to run down too far the breaker ,50 amps in our case, will trip. Once it trips your coach batteries will not be charged by the engine's alternator. Some will tell you to poke at the button with a pen tip etc if you can't get your finger on the button. Don't push in too far. If you do and the button gets stuck under the housing of the breaker, you will be in continous reset and your batteries will not be charged. Just push it in and release.

After doing this, if your system is working and the engine is running, your coach battery voltage should match the engine battery voltage. Remember if the difference is too great between the voltage at the coach batteries and the engine battery your breaker may trip again. Checking the coach batteries just after starting your engine will be the best time to check if all is well.

That's how it worked on my 2007 Hurricane.

As an emergency remedy you can charge your coach batteries off the engine battery with a long jumper cable. This was approved by Thor tech for me. I did this for over a month until the real problem was discovered by me and the tech help at Thor over the phone.

Added:
Charging your batteries off the engine is far quicker than plugging into shore power. Those alternators can put out as much as 170 amps. Your converter will take forever to charge your coach batteries in comparison.

I found that one hour of driving time would fully charge my partially discharged coach batteries. Enough for you to get a couple days of normal use in the coach.