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Old 08-24-2016, 03:11 PM   #1
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Confused about my Norcold refridgerator

It's me again. Thanks everyone with all the suggestions concerning my class c weight queries. I have another dilemma. My Norcold fridge isn't working. It worked fine last week when I tried it out for the first time. I was working on my converter, got that squared away and went to energize the fridge, nothing. It's not getting 12 volt. I must have knocked a wire loose or something. I've checked all the fuses I can find, no good. I have plugged it into another 110 source, no good. It has to get 12 volt first to allow one to choose 110 or propane. Any help? thanks.
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasman View Post
It's me again. Thanks everyone with all the suggestions concerning my class c weight queries. I have another dilemma. My Norcold fridge isn't working. It worked fine last week when I tried it out for the first time. I was working on my converter, got that squared away and went to energize the fridge, nothing. It's not getting 12 volt. I must have knocked a wire loose or something. I've checked all the fuses I can find, no good. I have plugged it into another 110 source, no good. It has to get 12 volt first to allow one to choose 110 or propane. Any help? thanks.
Hatterasman
Did your "salesman switch" accidentally get turned off?
Do you have a 12V fuse labeled "refrigerator" in the fuse panel for the 12V circuits in the cabin of your coach?
Have you verified that you don't have a blown fuse on the refrigerator control board on the back of your refrigerator... (which is accessed from the outside of the coach by removing the lower grill/vent)?
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Old 08-24-2016, 04:27 PM   #3
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FWIW quick check of the salesman's switch is whether or not the lights work with the shore cord pulled and the generator off. After that it's what Mel S said.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:02 PM   #4
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Go to the Class A thread and read the threads on the recalls, class action lawsuits and fires from some of these units...
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:16 AM   #5
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When you read the various diatribes be aware that they are referring to the 1200 series double door units. Few of them in Class C's.
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:02 PM   #6
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Thanks. There is no fuse that says refrigerator. I have checked all 12 volt fuses I can find including the two under black box in back of frige. All of them are good. I know about the "salesman's switch" although I didn't know it was called that. When off I have no lights or anything else 12 volt. When on, everything works but frige.
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Old 08-26-2016, 07:02 AM   #7
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Do yourself a favor. Go to someplace like Home Depot, find the electrical clerk and ask him to show you how to measure voltage with one of their under $20 meters. If he does buy the meter and check your line voltage at the refrigerator feed. That would answer about half your problem. Either you are getting power and it's the control board or you are not getting power and it's the wiring including fuses and/or breakers.
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Old 08-26-2016, 08:24 AM   #8
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Recommendation - go to a reputable RV service center and have them check it. I had the same problem last Thanksgiving. I ended up buying and having installed an entire new cooling unit. Much cheaper than a new fridge. OH - and I know how to do all of the troubleshooting.
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