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Old 12-02-2012, 06:06 PM   #1
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Hi there folks,
Well I finally got my 1992 Gulfstream class c crammed into my barn to begin the winter interior renovation. Im looking to also replace my countertops with something light, anybody has any resources as to who does replacement OEM countertops? Thanks


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Old 12-02-2012, 06:20 PM   #2
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I have a small kitchen that had a large double sink. Last year we replaced the sink with one bar sized and had a new countertop made that has a flip up extension. Gave me much counter space that I really needed. Had a local cabinet company make the top, think it ran around $380. They came to my home and measured, did a great job, even cut the sink hole for us.

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Old 12-03-2012, 10:13 AM   #3
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If you have the tools making your own is fairly easy. I moved my kitchen in our little GF class c to the back (no more too small rear bed), gained 3 times the counter space and so much more room in the "living" area (dinette is now a fold out couch). Made my countertops out of 3/4" plywood with hardwood front edging then covered in a nice granite look laminate. All you need is a decent saw (table saw works great on the laminate) and a router with a trim bit. All in all I spent a bit less than $200 in materials. And plywood is significantly lighter than the particle board generally used.

Have fun with your winter project!
Greg and Karen, the pups Bailey and Lily (St. Bernard mix and Beagle mix) and Lola (the attack cat)
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:03 PM   #4
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I know you said light, but yet another option is doing plywood,with hardi board layer on top and then tile. I've seen other just do plywood and tile, but the hardi adds needed protection from movemnet that will crack the morter.... done right it should out last the MH. But it would end up being heavier than the original. I'm doing this method in my 22' chieftain currently.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:13 PM   #5
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Hardi board isnt designed to prevent cracking from movement. The purpose of backer board is to reduce rot and decay. If you are concerned about cracking from minor movement try a product like Schulter Ditra. These products are designed to help reduce cracking from minor movement.
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Old 01-08-2013, 02:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by TWARREN
Hardi board isnt designed to prevent cracking from movement. The purpose of backer board is to reduce rot and decay. If you are concerned about cracking from minor movement try a product like Schulter Ditra. These products are designed to help reduce cracking from minor movement.
You are absolutely correct about Hardi Board's purpose - water / mold barrier. That said, when I had tile installed in a pier and beam foundation home - 15+ years ago - the installer indicated that the tile would remain in place as the nails would cut through the Hardi board and it and the tile could float as the house / subfloor moved around. I thought it was an ify statement then - but since the board was going down either way I didn't push it with the guy. No longer own the house but know the tile is still in place as the x does. Bang-head hard and often.
Steve & Annie (RVM2)
2008 Fleetwood Bounder 38F ~ 325 ISB Turbo ~ Freightliner XC 2014 CR-V ~ Invisibrake / Sterling All Terrain
Sioux Falls, SD (FullTime Since Nov 5th 2014)
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:41 AM   #7
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True, on the hardi and the movement. I think it helps since it tends to remove the flexing you may have. When you mortar and screw hardi to a 3/4 sheet of plywood it's a pretty solid surface. An order of magnitude stronger than the original press board that was used.

I've never heard of the Schluter System until now, and never used it. Looks interesting. I've heard of a so called flexible mortar also, again never used it and in asking about it at local hardware supply places they have not either...

In these small applications I just get the premixed and colored/treated mortar in the pint containers at lowes or HD, simple to work with, and just enough to do the counter.

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