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Old 08-05-2013, 08:04 PM   #15
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You need to start with fixing the inside problem that caused this delam. Then you can see what needs to be done to fix the outside. Best of luck.

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Old 08-05-2013, 08:09 PM   #16
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Thanks for the encouragement....the window seal was not right, thats easy to fix, but I have to get the wall back together.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:17 PM   #17
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I fixed a 3x3ft delam area on the side of my rv under a widow by pouring low viscosity epoxy into area, using a syringe and long skinny tube. Clamped it overnight. Worked great, no need to drill holes. Bought it off ebay much cheaper for what that other place is asking for.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:25 PM   #18
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I should have mentioned as well if this can make feel any better, to re-skin and paint our coach is $30K. We don't have the delamination problem but checking in the paint which is due to faulty fiberglass skin. I guess we'll live with it as I've seen a lot of coaches that are far worse then ours and are a later model as well.
Our 2002 DSDP has the same problem with the skin, cost is $18,000 per side and not worth it on a rig that's 14 model years old now.
Impossible for a Newmar to delaminate as they don't use laminated walls, they use what is called "hung wall" construction.
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:56 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by qwispichkn View Post
I fixed a 3x3ft delam area on the side of my rv under a widow by pouring low viscosity epoxy into area, using a syringe and long skinny tube. Clamped it overnight. Worked great, no need to drill holes. Bought it off ebay much cheaper for what that other place is asking for.
Man that is good news, thanks for the Ebay tip....could have it overnited and still be half as much. Which brings me to my next question. How much did you need to do the 3x3 spot. My area is bigger than that. I was thinking of getting the gallon, I don't think I want to run out while doing the repair. Does the brand matter ? The reviews are good on this one.MAS Epoxy Resin
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:08 PM   #20
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Quart each of resin and hardner was pleanty.
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:15 PM   #21
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Easy 1:1 mixture
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Old 08-06-2013, 12:23 AM   #22
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Went with Jamestown distrubitors,and MAS got 1gal of lowV resin 1/2g of slow hardner this mixes (2 to 1), pots, and syringes. total 240.00. Just need to get some tubing and figure out where to start filling and clamping....this will be an adventure, without burning any diesel.....

Thanks for your advice......
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:53 PM   #23
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Well, I started the process, because of the track the skin sets in on a Tiffin, the water traveled way down the side. So I started at the far end and plan on working my way back to the source. It was nice to find the wall is made of steel studs, so even if the repair is unsightly, the wall wont colapse, it would be cool if it works well. We will see in a few hours when I remove the blocking from the first part.
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:26 PM   #24
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Well pour #1 worked well except for a little over flow that got under the wood. By the time I was confident it was hard, it was wanting to become part of the wall. Heading toward the larger more difficult part, hope i injected enough 38oz this pour. Added a layer of waxed paper, with a extra patch of it over a crack. This low viscosity resin flows like water. We will seen in a while.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:28 AM   #25
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This was way too much work, no wonder they wanted 17000.00 per wall. Got unbelievable before it was done. This had been going on since it was built, the guy who cuts the luan to shape missed a little and the window got installed without a shim at the bottom so it had 1/4" seal at the top. Great coach building Tiffin. The damage was massive, even separated the bottom frame from the storage area. Had to use a hydraulic frame tool to put it back.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:40 AM   #26
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That looks like a lot of work.
Did the repair come out like you expected?
Or would you have gone with 17K wall replacement if you had to do it over.?
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:14 AM   #27
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Any success on the repair project? I am in a similar situation with major delam on the back quarter of my Winnebago. I've started removing the inner wall, wallpaper, luan plywood, foam and now I'm trying to remove the layer of luan that is glued to the fiberglass skin. In most of it, water has rotten the wood and it all comes off easily. Unfortunately, there is a lot that'll need to be removed that is still firmly attached to the fiberglass. I'm afraid it I don't get the fiberglass completely free of everything, when I get to the point of replacing, gluing and pressuring the wall back together to cure, the stuff that isn't removed will show up thru the fiberglass. With this much work, I'd hate if I fixed the delam bubbling, but ended up with random wood strip impressions showing thru on the outside. Wondering if anyone knows of an adhesive remover that won't affect the fiberglass that I can use to remove the stubborn luan.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:32 AM   #28
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Hey guys. I bought an old Allegro bus cause it runs like a top. Got some delamanination going around the large window. Going to try the low viscosity epoxy product from delamrepair.com. Before I just bolt a 1/4" aluminum plate to both sides, paint "Curad" on it and drive it till it drops......guess I could have been a redneck. It's a pretty big area...wish me luck..
I know I'm a "Johnny Come Lately" on this but I was reading up on de-lam because my neighbor found some on his recently acquired MH.

The picture you show on the whole window area shows de-lam above the window. I think you may have mis-diagnosed the problem, it had to start above the window.
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