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Old 06-23-2012, 11:23 AM   #15
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Yes, an oil analysis is sort of like going to your doctor. You send them a sample in the prepaid kit, they will send you a report with all sorts of information that will relate to the health of your engine. Once you learn what it all means and are satisfied that there are no problems internally, you could go to maybe once every 6 or 9 oil changes. The point is, that you know how good the motor is internally.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:37 AM   #16
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We have owned several Jeep Grand Cherokees with this motor. Our current one has about 70K on it under power and another 30K towed. Just change the oil every 10K miles or so and, of course, change the filter with it. Air filters need to be replaced according to environment and usage, but you'll know when. That's it. The fuel filter / water separator on that engnie is another story. You probably don't want to do it yourself but you can. It is located in the valley between the cylinder banks, right where the lifters would live in a gas engine. It sits in a cradle held by two straps and has three connections. I paid about $190 for the filter and another $75 or so to have it professionally replaced. I did it at 100Kms. (approx. 60K miles) as a part of an overall "tuneup". I had the serpentine belt replaced at the same time to be sure. It's a Mercedes motor and it should go forever if you just do regular maintenance. I love ours and wouldn't trade for any other motor out there in a Passenger vehicle. I hope you have as much luck as we have had.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:14 PM   #17
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We have owned several Jeep Grand Cherokees with this motor. Our current one has about 70K on it under power and another 30K towed. Just change the oil every 10K miles or so and, of course, change the filter with it. Air filters need to be replaced according to environment and usage, but you'll know when. That's it. The fuel filter / water separator on that engnie is another story. You probably don't want to do it yourself but you can. It is located in the valley between the cylinder banks, right where the lifters would live in a gas engine. It sits in a cradle held by two straps and has three connections. I paid about $190 for the filter and another $75 or so to have it professionally replaced. I did it at 100Kms. (approx. 60K miles) as a part of an overall "tuneup". I had the serpentine belt replaced at the same time to be sure. It's a Mercedes motor and it should go forever if you just do regular maintenance. I love ours and wouldn't trade for any other motor out there in a Passenger vehicle. I hope you have as much luck as we have had.
Precious advice there! I will copy & paste it and add it to my MH folder. I'll most likely do as you do and pay somebody to replace the filter. How much do they charge for the oil analasis?
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:31 PM   #18
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Precious advice there! I will copy & paste it and add it to my MH folder. I'll most likely do as you do and pay somebody to replace the filter. How much do they charge for the oil analasis?
Usually around $25
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Old 06-23-2012, 03:53 PM   #19
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Perhaps this site will lead you to the manuel you need.

Good luck.
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:16 PM   #20
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I had a somewhat similar fuel filter on my Trek motorhome w/a GM diesel 6.5L engine. It was what I've always called a canister filter, meaning the canister is essentially part of the OEM engine assembly, and it contains a filter element. Location was in the valley between the left & right cylinder banks. I had to disassemble the canister to get the old element out & new one in. There were some o-rings to replace & water separator portion of the bowl to scrutinize to see if anything collected there. It was good practice to siphon out & mop out all fuel so that anything that sloughed from the old element got picked up & not run through to the engine. Process took about an hour at my slow rate of speed.

According to Wix, air, fuel, oil & transmission filter products, are available, some as a kit (click on the part# for a picture); other filter makers probably also have replacements. If you do not want to do this service yourself, some places appreciate you coming in with obscure filters, as they can get right to work doing the service. Others want to sell you the filters, even tho it may take a while for them to be delivered by a supplier, as the shop makes a markup on the parts. The fuel filter looks like a "cartridge" type, undo fuel hoses, replace some o-rings, etc., toss the old filter cartridge & install the new. Not a lot of specialized knowledge required here. The engine oil filter looks like a canister element type (re-use the OEM canister, replace the element & o-rings), kinda messy would be my guess but within reach of an experienced DIY'er (make sure you have good drip control under the canister location). Air filter a monkey could replace.
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Old 06-23-2012, 06:02 PM   #21
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Perhaps this site will lead you to the manuel you need.

Good luck.
Thanks for that. Unfortunately it didn't go up to year 2008 on the Dodge Sprinter. Close. It only went up to 2006. I thought for sure it would be there. Also, my engine is a CID 182, no mention of that there either, unless i missed something.
Appreciate your help!
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:31 PM   #22
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I would only stick with 5% or less bio-fuel blends. And at $180 for fuel filter change, I would learn how to do that myself.
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