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Old 05-30-2010, 07:48 PM   #15
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I had a 24' and a 31' C before my A and I can't see spending the money on them. I would spend the money on something else...happy trails..
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Old 06-17-2010, 03:22 PM   #16
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What about leveling?

Seems like most folks posting here use jacks to stabilize and prevent the rig from rocking or bouncing. But what's everyone doing to level their rig? I've hardly been to a CG where the pad is actually level. And besides making our world crooked, I have concerns for the longevity of the fridge.

I have made ramps for the front tires, but there I have concerns for torquing the chassis and causing premature wear that'll end up making panels and cabinetry come loose in the future. So again, what's everyone doing for leveling their rigs!

p.s.-In Iraq for the next year. Can't wait to get back next summer and take 30 days of leave to hit Alaska! Go Navy!
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:14 AM   #17
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I bought a long 2x12 and cut it in sections. I mitered the ends so they would not be so blunt to run up on. They don't take up too much space, they are far cheaper than those plastic blocks they sell, and in a pinch they are good firewood!

Be safe in Iraq, prayers to you and those serving with you. Come on up to Alaska, it is beautiful for sure.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
I bought a long 2x12 and cut it in sections. I mitered the ends
LOL I did the same only I used a 2x8. As you say they don't take up much room and I have 7 of them. I've been using them since 2007 when needed which wasn't very often.

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Old 06-29-2010, 10:44 AM   #19
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Used to carry wood ramps and boards in my class A's until I went with Hyd levelr's. No place to carry a lumber tard anymore. HWH levelr's are nice. Just hit the button and watch them work.
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:29 PM   #20
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We had some of those orange plastic Lynx leveler pads... after we buried them in the South GA sand, we packed them back up into their little bags and used chunks of wood. I still have the two sets of them. I guess I will sell them in a yard sale or on Craigs List.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:33 AM   #21
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I have a set of the orange pads. I took 4 of them. Afixed rubber truck mud flaps to them. Not they do not sink in the ground. The mud flaps are a quarter inch thick. Cut to fit the blocks. Used tie wraps to secure to the blocks.
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:28 AM   #22
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My wife would get motion sick if I walked around in our Jamboree 23 ft. I attached scissor jacks on the rear frame rails and then used automotive scissor jacks under a steel plate behind the cab (just hand tight) and now there is hardly any sway at all. John
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:07 PM   #23
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I found a great leveling idea on the web. Buy a 4' x 6' barn stall matt from a farm supply store and cut it into 8" x 12" sections. The leveling options are endless and they clean up well if they get dirty, they don't hold water, etc. The pad is very hard rubber and about 1" thick so you can fine tune the leveling and/or ramp it up big time. Your rubber tires grip the rubber matt without slipping. It works great for us in our 23' class C
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:51 AM   #24
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I just bought a pair of leveler jacks for our class "C" and will install them in the morning. I may be going for stability overkill but I do not like the way our unit sometimes sits on the ground kind of spongy and unsteady.
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:29 PM   #25
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Well I think that its a personal preference, I prefer jacks to take the movement of people walking aroud when in camp, the DW really wanted them for when I get up early in the morning and start to move around and get the coffee going and stuff, then heading outside, so I installed 4 sicissor jacks which I put up and down with a battery power drill motor, works just fine for us.
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:10 PM   #26
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The jacks have been on for a bit and they sure make leveling and general setup much quicker and easier. I am looking for a long rod and an old 3/4" socket to make a quick attach for my electric drill to speed up the operation just a tad.
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Old 07-31-2010, 04:38 PM   #27
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Well I would like to add to my previous post, I also took some 3/4" conduit and cut to length attached it to the jacks, with a pin through the conduit and jack drive hex, the conduit stick out past the wall of the C about 4" because as you lower the jacks they get shorter and the conduit is pulled under the C, with the extra 4" when the jacks are down the conduit is even with the wall of the C, I then put a bolt with a head that would take a 3/4" socket and put it into the end of the conduit and put a pin through it also, then took a conduit clamp the kind that is used to hold the conduit to the wall with a screw and a bolt to close the opening to hold the conduit, well I spread this open so that the conduit will easily go in and out of this clamp, fhdn bolted this clamp to the angle iron on the bottom of the wall of the C, then got some pins the you use to hold draw bars and such, small ones, 1/4" in dia, and when the jacks are up the are nested in thesenspred open clamps and the pins hold them in place, this way I can go around and lower or raise the jacks with just stooping over I don't have to kneel on the ground and try to find the end of the jack which is a pain in the dark, the 4" i left sticking out past the wall I painted bright yellow so that I or somebody else won't walk into them. I can now put the jack down in about 2-4 minutes depending on how much I putz, this set up works for me. I use the Lynx leveling pads would not be with out them they are fast and light and don't take up a lot of room, I need to raise the front of the C 9" when we go to the son's house and park on his driveway, he lives in N Il and in the winter we want to be fast setting up, man it can get cold up there.
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:21 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by FC Ontario View Post
we did install two scissor jacks at the back as that was where our bed was. We did seem to sleep better when we did that. Never installed any on the front though. We used our battery operated drill to raise and lower the scissor jacks. Much easier.
That's exactly what I did with my Class C. And definitely very easy using a battery operated drill for sure !
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