Community Forums

customfab · 06-20-2017, 10:18 AM

I'm in the process of purchasing a single owner, 2006 GS Vista Cruiser 4270 model which is a 27'-7" with the Ford 6.0L diesel.

Having owned a 7.3L and being a bit of a gear head, I'm very familiar with the 6.0L diesel and the related maintenance needs / potential head aches there. With proper maintenance and a few upgrades, they can be very reliable. I ultimately need the diesel for towing requirements and b/c I simply love them.

My question is surrounding the RV itself. I can find almost no information on the 4270 series. Seems to be a very low volume production unit. Judging from the brochure, the quality of materials seems great with a poly-tech coated aluminum roof and aluminum skins. Of course, this is generally a ton of negative information on GS as a whole....poor customer service, poor quality craftsmanship, etc. I take a lot of this with a grain of salt as my the RVs or travel trailers are like boats....they are need some TLC...just hopefully nothing major.

I'm hoping anyone familiar with this model can chime in on observations / experiences. I'm buying remotely (after a buyer's pre-inspection report) so it is difficult for me to check out all the fine details. Love to hear from anyone with actual experience with this Class C.

Thanks and eager to become a working part of the forum!

Devin

Siesta · 06-21-2017, 11:16 PM

Hi Devin,
I know you didn't really ask for feedback on the motor side of your rig, but I'm going to chime in anyway, seeing as no one else has (and mainly cause there appear to be few owners on this site that are running the 6.0 diesel). Like you, I love diesels, and the 6.0 is a great motor once you understand its idiosyncracies. In fact, I've heard that its checkered past has also led to some really good deals as enough people get scared off by the bad press to keep prices down. Several on this site will claim that diesels aren't worth the extra cost and maintenance. While that might be true for new purchases, many like 'us' have bought used and gotten very good value. I wouldn't trade mine for a V-10 because I'm often towing in the mountains, and the 6.0 loves to be worked hard with no mileage penalty to speak of (as you may have read, the 6 doesn't do as well when its used in vehicles stuck in city traffic a lot or idling around town in delivery vans and ambulances).
To be brief, ford made a fatal mistake prescribing a silicate-laden coolant (Ford Gold), so dump that if it hasn't already been done and switch to a CAT EC-1 rated coolant (or you'll gum up the whole cooling system). Secondly, get an engine monitor gauge such as a ScanGauge II to check your vitals, particularly the oil/coolant temperature differential which will inform you about the health of your oil cooler. We should touch base once in awhile (PM) to compare experiences. My rig is actually identical in length to yours and probably has a similar floor plan, as its the same vintage.
Bob

customfab · 06-22-2017, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Siesta

Hi Devin,
I know you didn't really ask for feedback on the motor side of your rig, but I'm going to chime in anyway, seeing as no one else has (and mainly cause there appear to be few owners on this site that are running the 6.0 diesel). Like you, I love diesels, and the 6.0 is a great motor once you understand its idiosyncracies. In fact, I've heard that its checkered past has also led to some really good deals as enough people get scared off by the bad press to keep prices down. Several on this site will claim that diesels aren't worth the extra cost and maintenance. While that might be true for new purchases, many like 'us' have bought used and gotten very good value. I wouldn't trade mine for a V-10 because I'm often towing in the mountains, and the 6.0 loves to be worked hard with no mileage penalty to speak of (as you may have read, the 6 doesn't do as well when its used in vehicles stuck in city traffic a lot or idling around town in delivery vans and ambulances).
To be brief, ford made a fatal mistake prescribing a silicate-laden coolant (Ford Gold), so dump that if it hasn't already been done and switch to a CAT EC-1 rated coolant (or you'll gum up the whole cooling system). Secondly, get an engine monitor gauge such as a ScanGauge II to check your vitals, particularly the oil/coolant temperature differential which will inform you about the health of your oil cooler. We should touch base once in awhile (PM) to compare experiences. My rig is actually identical in length to yours and probably has a similar floor plan, as its the same vintage.
Bob

Bob, I appreciate the input and for not being a basher. I wanted to avoid the 6.0L debate as there is too many misinformed folks out there. Agreed 100% on the 6.0L. It is not a motor for the meager. It gets bad publicity but for the wrong reasons IMO. No doubt that 2003-2004 are years to avoid but the 6.0L is actually a very good motor IF you maintain it well. Of course, it can be made bulletproof, too. So I hear you 110% on the coolant issues...first thing I'm draining. Also, this motor wants very clean fluids ALL THE TIME. So I'm adding a secondary bypass oil filter system and coolant system. This will avoid a lot of headaches. Unless you are going to be hard on it and push the tunes past +100HP, that's all you need to do other than close EOT/ECT monitoring. If the temps check-out, drive it like a diesel and don't be scared! What's funny is that 6.4L and 6.7L motors with DEF are basically throw away motors in comparison and have big issues....thank the EPA ultimately that that. Diesels are becoming too crowded and complicated with emission restrictions. A large population of genuine Powerstroke guys prefer a bulletproofed 6.0L over even the 7.3L.

CharlesinGA · 06-23-2017, 08:17 PM

The EGR cooler was not mentioned above, but this is a critical issue on the six oh engine. Original cooler was plain steel, pinholed, allowed coolant to get sucked in the intake, a steam engine the 6.0 isn't. The huge increase in cylinder pressures stretches the torque to yield (elastic) headbolts and the gasket blows. The fix is a stainless aftermarket EGR cooler and ARP or similar high tensile head studs and nuts, at least change the cooler before it pinholes. Fluiddamper on the crank is said to be a big help also.

Silicate coolant clogs the tiny passages in the oil cooler, after market cooler solves a lot of the oil cooling problems.

No experience but have read extensively on this engine.

Charles