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Old 08-05-2013, 02:03 PM   #1
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2000 Fun Mover - Problem with Electrical/charging


This is my first post on here, so I apologize ahead of time if this is not in the right spot.

I am a new Rv owner. I bought a 2000 FourWinds FunMover. It has been used quite a bit and seems to be modified over the years. This brings me to some questions about how everything works. I was never given a crash course on this vehicle, so I'm spending hours figuring everything out.

So here are my questions + 1 one outstanding/ongoing problem...

1). I have 3 brand new house batteries. They show a full charge of 12.6 - 12.7.
Under the dinette seat, looks like someone installed a battery charger and inverter (something you buy at an automotive store). These connect directly to the battery bank through the floor of the RV. There is an extension cord that runs from the charger/inverted to the overheard cabinet so it can plug into a 120vAC outlet.
Does this mean my RV does not have the ability to charge the batteries? When I run the Gen (onan 5k) it powers up my 120vac outlets, but my batteries do not show that they are charging. Same for the shorepower (30amp). Do i need to do something to turn the charger on? Does it not charge by defualt?
Someone said that I may need to push the rocker switch twice to engage the charger. But why would someone put another charger in the RV??
Where do I find my converter/charger to check?

Second issue:
Most recently I tried to start my genny and it did nothing when engaged from inside the rv and at the genny. I started my rv engine, and then the genny started for me, but when I shut off my rv engine, the genny shut off as well. Ever since then, I have no power. The main rocker swtich wont turn anything on, and my doorstep won't even come down when i open the living area door.
This just happend last week, everything was fine and this just happened all of a sudden out of nowhere.

Please help with any advice!

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Old 08-05-2013, 03:32 PM   #2
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Howdy and welcome to the site!

Issue 1. Sounds like the original charger/inverter may have gone out and they were replaced. In my RV (2005 Jayco Greyhawk) the charger/inverter is under the bed in the back. You might look there and see if you can find anything. To charge your batteries now you may have to plug that extension cord in to an outlet.

Issue 2. It sounds like the power for the generator has been tied in to the ignition switch of the coach. See if you have power to the gen when the key is on.

If possible, try to track down the previous owner and find out what has been done, otherwise find a friendly RV service garage and let them take a look at it. Good luck.

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Old 08-05-2013, 03:49 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input!

I'm trying to figure out where the converter is.. I'll keep up that search..
Do you happen to know 'how' to get the converter to charge the batteries?
If I run the genny or power up with shorepower, the RV lights up like a xmas tree and I have 12v and 120vac as needed. But the batteries don't charge. I was told if i hit the 'main' rocker switch a second time, it will open the circuit for the batteries to charge, but I've also heard people say that some chargers can not tell when the batteries are charged and will fry them. Should the batteries just automatically start charging, or do i need to do something?

Is there a good way to test this? Should i push the rocker switch a second time and monitor the voltage? If so, what type of voltage does an onboard charger put out?

The genny worked perfectly until the other day. Now it won't start when the rv engine is off, and shuts off when the rv engine shuts off.
Prior to that it powered up fine and ran like a champ.
Would a loose connection do that? Not sure where to start with this issue.
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:53 PM   #4
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around 13.x volts when the converter is charging. one of your AC 110v fuses will be for the converter. the converter can be built into the coach fuse panel but can also be separate. depending on the converter it will have several charging programs i.e. recharge 13.6v, float 13.2v and desulfation 14.4 (for a short period per day). but that depends on the model. old parallax converters could boil a battery dry if left charging for a long time.
if your converter exists and is working, the voltage at batteries will jump immediately to 13.x on shore, however on genny the output voltage must stabilize first which is monitored by the ATS (automatic transfer switch), so you'll see 13.x after seconds (as opposed to minutes). The ATS switches power between genny and shore automatically with genny usually having priority if both are live.
I have no idea about the rocker switch, sounds funky to me.
genny won't start when the RV is low on gas, normally 1/4 tank but it depends to a greater extent on incline the RV is on. if your batteries are low, the genny fuel pump might be inoperable unless the rv alternator helps providing volts. There should also be a main breaker at the genny, if that's off there won't be any AC to the coach.
personally I would disconnect your batteries and test V for each one separately. You might have a dead cell somewhere. also don't wire your batteries so that -ive & +ive cables are on the same battery, have them at either end of the chain, (I don't mean in series btw). this reduces (but does not remove) the effect of having the first battery doing all the work with the others less so. second diagram here is what I mean (shows 2 batteries not 3) http://www.solarrvpanels.com/index.p...ries-properly/
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:02 PM   #5
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Ok, so i decided to replace the converter.
I have a 2000 FourWinds FunMover. I'm guessing the original converter is still in it. I'm going to go poke around.

Can anyone recommend a good replacement? I use a 5k watt Onan most of the time to charge my 3 12volt house batteries. I just replaced them last year and they seem to be working fine.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:10 AM   #6
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go with the PD9260 but I'd find what you have already first.
mine's under the sink and I had to take the sink out to get to it.
do you have switches by the door? water heater, genny, battery disco and unknown? I don't know what that last switch is for either, maybe outside light.
behind under the sink or below outside looks good for checking. if you have inaccessible areas below the dinette chairs, they're suspects too.
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:14 PM   #7
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Just a couple of notes on deep cycle battery charging & voltage.
You CANNOT measure battery voltage if the betteries have been charged or in use within the last 24 hours. "Skin Charge" makes them read high.
To see what state your batteries are in charge them fully... leave them on a charger for at least 24 hours (caps off if wet cells). Then remove all connections for 24 hours and THEN measure the voltage at each battery. If it is 12.6 or 12.7V you have a full 100% charge and the batteries are in good shape. Anything less is showing some age and anything less than 12.2 is suspect and is probably best replaced.
With Wet Cells, you can also test with a "turkey baster" hydrometer cell by cell. With AGM's (sealed) or "Maintenence Free" (sealed) you have to do it with a voltmeter. If you have a bad cell in one battery...remove the entire battery from the system and replace it. Age of batteries doesn't matter... more are murdered than die of old age!

As to charging...You need a 3 stage charger/converter to properly maintain and charge your batteries. Stage 1 (Bulk) will take 14.5 volts...Stage 2 (Absorbtion) starts at about 80% charged and generally around 13.8 volts till fully charged. Stage 3 (Float) maintains the battery at full charge at generally 13.2-13.4 volts.
All batteries LIKE to be fully charged. They all HATE to be discharged more than 1/2 and discharging below 1/2 charge kills batteries much faster. 1/2 charge is 12.25V with NO LOAD on the batteries. This means your Group 31 100 amp hour battery REALLY is designed to provide you with 50amp hours without shortening its' life. Plan how many batteries and what capacity you need based on 1/2 the amp hour rating vs. your actual amp hour use.
In sizing the charge capacity of your charger...you can charge at about 20% of your total battery amp hour capacity. So...3 100 amp (Group 31) deep cycle batteries = 300 amp hours which can be charged at 20%...so a charger putting out AROUND 60 amps is what you need. Buying a bigger charger will NOT charge faster...buying a smaller one WILL charge but slower!

I don't have the answer to your generator problem, but thought the battery info might be useful to you. Sounds to me like your charger converter needs to be plugged in when you have external AC power or generator power to properly charge your existing batteries.
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:45 AM   #8
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The generator issue is tied to the problem with the converter, sort of.

The house batteries are dead, likely just from parasitic losses, because the converter is not recharging them. Because the batteries are dead the genset can't / won't start.

When you start the engine the coach battery protector / charge relay closes and there's enough power in the system to start the genset. When you turn off the ignition though the relay opens, the voltage drops to an unsafe level and the genset shuts itself off to protect the system.

Replace the converter and charge or replace the house batteries and all should return to normal.

Ted 'n' Laurie, plus Jackson (aka Deputy Dog, the Parson Russell Terrier 'fur kid') and, Rylie (who crossed the Rainbow Bridge June 14, 2012).
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electrical, charging

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