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Old 05-08-2014, 11:51 AM   #1
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First RV-Level questions

This is our first Class C RV and our first RV ever.
We have a new minnie winnie with no leveling system.

I am looking for suggestions on the best way to level the 32' winnie?
Do I purchase 4 leveling jacks or 2? Which are the best but the least expensive?
Are the pads you drive up on worth the money as they seem the least expensive to start.
We get the RV next week and this forum has been a god send.
Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:07 PM   #2
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A set of stacking blocks is the cheapest solution. I use my jacks not only for leveling, but also to reduce jiggle of the coach when we move about inside. Having jacks installed can be a costly endeavor.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:07 PM   #3
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The drive on pads will be tthe cheapest way to level. It will take a bit of team work to get them in place and the right combination. While true levelers may cost more their biggest advantage, after being easy to use, is that they take the suspension out of the set up thereby reducing "bounce" from your springs. Good luck with your decision.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:13 PM   #4
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I find using a carpenter level inside the coach helps me eyeball where the blocks need to be and how many.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:26 PM   #5
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I had little bubble levels glued to the dash and under my side window. I used four 2.5 foot 2x8 boards that could be ramped together (the long plastic ramps would work as well)

Got so I could tell how much to ramp for up to 3 corners by the bubbles.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:27 PM   #6
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Lynx Levelers. Get a good 4 bags of them.

I took a sheet of 3/4" plywood, ripped it to slightly wider than the width of a Lynx Leveler and slightly longer than the length of 4 levelers. I did this 3 times. I spray painted each length w/ Rustoleum and than screwed (countersunk the heads) 4 Lynx levelers onto each of the 3 boards. Get a run of vinyl tubing and cut to the length of the screw and insert the screw into the tube and into the Lynx. When you go to fasten the screw through the Lynx and into the board, the tubing expands to keep the Lynx in place.

This helps to keep the Lynx from shifting and cracking under softer soil; generally gives a better foundation and a easy 3/4" lift right off the bat.

I than lay this board in front of the tire(s) that I need to pay attention to, build up the Lynx pyramid, cap the Lynx you intend to 'land on' and drive up. Get the Lynx Stop Chock so you don't roll off the other end of them. Keep your torpedo level handy, and get within 1/2 a bubble in the bullseye both front to back and side to side.

Than call it a day.

I was in a rig w/ the Bigfoot levelers, and those things are absolutely AWESOME. However, at over 4k to install them and sacrificing the CCC I'd lose on my coach, the plastic Lynx will do just fine.

Amazon.com: Tri-Lynx 00018 Lynx Stop 'N Chock Interlocking Wheel Chock, (Pack of 2): Automotive

Amazon.com: Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers, (Pack of 10): Automotive

Amazon.com: Watts SVGE10 Pre-Cut 3/8-Inch Diameter by 1/4-Inch Clear Vinyl Tubing, 10-Foot Length: Home Improvement

http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00019...gy_auto_text_z
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:41 PM   #7
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Depends.....

If the site is WAY out of level you'll need a bunch of stacker blocks. I carry 3 sets, i.e. 30 blocks and sometimes I still have to use several 4' lengths of 2x6 boards.

I have leveling jacks but sometimes they are just not enough. I don't let any of my wheels dangle.
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