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Old 03-18-2016, 10:48 PM   #1
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Ford E450 no Turn Stop marker at trailer Plug

I am working on a friends 2014 Ford Powered Leprechaun class C. I hooked up a tow'ed and all worked well but then the stop and turn on the tow'ed were reported to flicker ( by the car following). sortly there-in the lights completely went off. I found that there is now only the trailer chrge power line with 12v+ power coming out the trailer round7 connector when the key is on the rv. No other signals or power works. The rv mounted tail lights continue to work true. It seems that a plug has become disconnected some place??

What I did so far : I found the 2014 E450 ford owners manual and note that there are fuses for the rv mounted tail lights and only micro relays G8VA for the trailer connector light signals. I took one relay out and tested that it did work by placing in in the horn position (I did not want to put a good relay and make it possibly fail to test wire issue) I guess I can test if the 4 pins have proper voltage and signal but I would not know which two pins are to pass power.

What I ask:
1-are there known connection points and wire harness plugs or any other history that would cause this failure?
2-I need to check if there are two batteries but is there a master fuse that powers this set of trailer relays or are the relays also line protection fuses for the trailer connector lights
Thanks in advance for your help
Gregory O'Connor
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:05 PM   #2
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Just a little bit confusing! Are you saying your rv plug has no voltage? Their are so many things that can cause a break in the current. Worn out pins, or corroded pins. Get a test light, and start by checking the plug on the rv. If it is good attach the plug to the toad. Find the large square tail light connection at the rear of the toad. Take it apart and check for voltage. It's just a matter of elimination. Sorry I'm not much help without being their.
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:15 AM   #3
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gregoconnor-

I don't have the wiring diagrams for the 2013-2014 Ford E-350/450 chassis. Over the years, Ford has not changed this part of their wiring much. With that caveat, there is no likely common upstream fuse or relay for the turn/stop and marker circuits that would not also affect lights on the motorhome (although I'll check again and report back if I find otherwise).

The common point for the problem is the 7-pin hitch connector and the two Ford connectors that feed it (both located near the rear of the chassis, usually within four feet of the hitch connector).

You say you don't measure any 12V at the hitch connector pins (except for the charge line). Despite the fact this implies a problem on the positive 12V side, I'd check the ground before I opened up the hitch connector. A poor ground has the potential to take out all the lights at once. The ground wire pops out of the bundle between the hitch connector and the two Ford connectors I mentioned above, and should be connected to the frame at that point with a screw or bolt.
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Old 03-19-2016, 07:04 AM   #4
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Sounds like you shorted it out. Keep looking for a fuse.
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:23 AM   #5
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I know that the Ford Superduty's have 10 AMP fuses for the left / right and tail for the trailer only. These circuits are not common with the vehicle lights. The stop circuit is also the turn circuits.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:51 AM   #6
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gregoconnor-

Here's a link to a PDF document containing a 2014 E-series trailer wiring diagram. The diagram is on sheet 13 of the document.

Per the diagram:

1) Fuses F17 and F48 are in the trailer turn/stop lamp circuits
2) Relays 37 and 38 are in the trailer turn/stop lamp circuits
3) Fuse F57 is in the trailer running (park) lamp circuit
4) Relay 6 is in the trailer running (park) lamp circuit

This completely agrees with the owners manual information you posted.

On that same page you can see the two connectors I mentioned and the 7-pin hitch connector. By tracing the signals you can determine which pin on the 7-pin connector should have which signal.

Of course, the 7-pin connector pinouts are "standard," so here's a link to a web page that shows the standard (look about half way down the page).

Have you checked each of the fuses and relays listed above? From your initial post, I couldn't be sure.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:40 AM   #7
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Mark said...
Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
gregoconnor-

Here's a link to a PDF document containing a 2014 E-series trailer wiring diagram. The diagram is on sheet 13 of the document.

Per the diagram:

1) Fuses F17 and F48 are in the trailer turn/stop lamp circuits
2) Relays 37 and 38 are in the trailer turn/stop lamp circuits
3) Fuse F57 is in the trailer running (park) lamp circuit
4) Relay 6 is in the trailer running (park) lamp circuit

This completely agrees with the owners manual information you posted.

On that same page you can see the two connectors I mentioned and the 7-pin hitch connector. By tracing the signals you can determine which pin on the 7-pin connector should have which signal.

Of course, the 7-pin connector pinouts are "standard," so here's a link to a web page that shows the standard (look about half way down the page).

Have you checked each of the fuses and relays listed above? From your initial post, I couldn't be sure.
Greg Reply....
Mark and others, Thanks
with the help above I found there are two blown fuses in the bank of fuses under the hood.
blown fuse:
A... 57 microblade fuse that powers the line to relay 6 then the load to trailer plug running lights
B...48 the square 20 amp fuse (must remove to rest continuity, pita) that powers line to both micro relay 37 and 38 to turn on the trailer plug right and left turn

While tracing the wires to find the cause of the blown fuses I was able to find a ground to frame self drill screw that went completely into the plug connection on the other side of the frame rail. this plug is underside 30 inches forward of the receiver hitch on the driver rail. I am not sure how this would cause the issue while towing and not from the start but i corrected the error and decided to move on and replace the tow'ed car umbilical cord. I also set up a Harbor Freight magnetic tow light set to plug into the RV as a backup for the owner (assist braking on this car is in the hitch like a boat trailer).
I added page 13 of Marks pdf to the owners manual and made notes of the issue on the fuse page. I removed fuse F63 which sends full time power to the trailer plug when the key is on (added a note in the owners man). Your assistance is valuable and saved an 8 day planned Spring Brake trip for owners who have 5 teen special needs boys. (La Mesa RV San Diego told them it would take a month to look at)
Thanks for the great help Greg
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