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Old 10-17-2014, 05:43 PM   #1
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Fourwinds 31W

We went to the local Camping World show today to do some speculation on upgrading our 28Z. Saw a new 31W that is pretty close to what we want in overall layout. It seems the new one's come standard with a household electric only refrigerator. Multifuel is not an option. A second 12 V battery is an option and autostart on the generator is standard.

From my perspective it was a deal breaker. We like to go places like the Adirondacks where most of the camping is off grid so no power plug in. I's need to run the generator 4 hours/day to top off the batteries then if I time it wrong or use too much lighting the generator will start during quiet hours getting my neighbors rightfully upset and calling the management...
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:08 AM   #2
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It would be a deal breaker for me too. I've already decided our next unit will go back to having a gas oven too vs the convection which is useless if you're boondocking.

It is less work for the mfg to not have to plumb stuff in vs plug it in but very limiting for end users when they go the electric only route.
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:50 AM   #3
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What is the amp draw on the refrigerator?
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed rzepka View Post
What is the amp draw on the refrigerator?
Ed, I have the Whirlpool residential fridge and going by my Surge Guard remote monitor, it displays a 2-3 amp draw.
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:37 AM   #5
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Ed, I have the Whirlpool residential fridge and going by my Surge Guard remote monitor, it displays a 2-3 amp draw.
Rudy:

Is it compressor type or an RV frig just without the LP option as a power source? With 2-3 amp draw (I'm assuming per hour) and with two batteries, one should be able to run the frig for at least several days (depending on what other electrical items are being used).

ed
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Old 10-18-2014, 09:56 AM   #6
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I think it is listed at 165 W. That 2-3 amp draw at 120 VAC will translate roughly to 20-30 Amp at 12 VDC with inverter losses. These are a class C unit with room for 2 batteries mounted under the step. I'm not sure if there is height to go to 2x6V. Either way there is no good place to add a couple more batteries.

FWIW there was another thread with a similar setup in a C. The owner reported he did not make it through the night. That was the thing that got me doing some fast back of the envelope calculations that said it is not the smartest idea in the world. It will be a significant power draw when driving especially when one is also charging the depleted battery bank. If dry camping it will require either running the genset for 3 or 4 hours at the end of the day or shutting off the refer and coasting through the night as if it was an ice chest. Either way hit the generator in the morning to get the batteries going. All that usage will eat the batteries. As the capacity diminishes the problem will get worse. That also translates to early battery replacement. It makes no sense to me to set up the problem that type of refrigerator creates in a C. I can see why they go there in a longer DP with the extra battery capacity but 2 batteries to run the unit is about right with the propane refrigerator if one dry camps much.
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed rzepka View Post
Rudy:

Is it compressor type or an RV frig just without the LP option as a power source? With 2-3 amp draw (I'm assuming per hour) and with two batteries, one should be able to run the frig for at least several days (depending on what other electrical items are being used).

ed
Ed,

I checked the manual to be sure and it does have a compressor, not a RV frig without the LP option. I also noticed for the first time, the ID label on the frig itself says that it will draw 6.5 amps at full load. I'm guessing that would be when the compressor is running and the icemaker motor and/or water solenoid all running at the same time.
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Old 10-18-2014, 05:40 PM   #8
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Ed,

I checked the manual to be sure and it does have a compressor, not a RV frig without the LP option. I also noticed for the first time, the ID label on the frig itself says that it will draw 6.5 amps at full load. I'm guessing that would be when the compressor is running and the icemaker motor and/or water solenoid all running at the same time.
Jerry:

Thanks! I hate to be splitting hairs here, but is that 6.5 amp draw on the 12v DC system or the 120V AC system?

thanks
ed
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:11 PM   #9
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Ed,

I don't know but I will look into it further. Hopefully, someone that is familiar with the residential frig will offer some help.
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:26 PM   #10
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We bought the 2015 31W... and the batteries are a struggle. You are correct that there's not enough height in the compartment for 6V... we're about to pull the trigger on 400W of solar as well as two extra 27 series batteries to go in the outer compartment just north of the coach door (where battery compartment is).

I think the prior post you referred to is me... what we do now when boon docking is we bought 6 of those plastic ice thingies you put in lunch boxes - and we leave them in the freezer (its big enough there's plenty of room). At night we put 4 in fridge and 2 in freezer, and shut it off for the night. I measure, and in the middle of summer with lows in the 70s... we can go all night and the fridge is in the low 40s in the morning.... nicely insulated.

I'm not sure but probably would buy the same coach again.... I think we like the floor plan too much to switch... and the big fridge with nice low temps is nice. I'm hoping the solar will solve the problem....
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:27 PM   #11
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oh... and the 6.5 amp at full draw is on 120V AC system...
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:15 AM   #12
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We also really like the layout. That is why we were disappointed at the refrigerator.

FWIW We had a talk with the salesman who we have been talking to at Camping World. He says he will be talking to the salesman from Fourwinds about the issue. No idea if that will change to optional or if they will add another battery pair.
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